Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[JohnMRobie]

You read my mind. I was originally recommended (and ended up purchasing) the 4-ply (~400 gm fabric weight) from a Suitsupply salesman. Wearing it now, it definitely fits the bill for cold spring and fall, but I'm looking to venture out and add more to my collection that may fit something for a warmer climate ~15-22 degrees.

Is the regular tropical wool 'bad'? What are the disadvantages of it compared to the 4-ply besides drape and weight?

I’m not familiar with SuSu’s offerings but are their trousers lined? I wouldn’t describe 4 ply as a fall/winter cloth though in the slightest and unlined I find them to pretty much be perfect for the seasons you described. 2 ply I wouldn’t wear except for the hottest days. I just don’t think there is enough benefit to the light weight to justify the trade offs when 4 ply exists.

There's a lighter weight 3 ply? in the Ascot bunch that I believe @Despos swears by.

Ascot has 2, 4 and 6 ply. If I recall it’s like 240, 370 and 480gms.

 

[kolecho]

I’m not familiar with SuSu’s offerings but are their trousers lined? I wouldn’t describe 4 ply as a fall/winter cloth though in the slightest and unlined I find them to pretty much be perfect for the seasons you described. 2 ply I wouldn’t wear except for the hottest days. I just don’t think there is enough benefit to the light weight to justify the trade offs when 4 ply exists.

Ascot has 2, 4 and 6 ply. If I recall it’s like 240, 370 and 480gms.

Might be the Finmeresco bunch then.

 

[G.Gatz]

I’m not familiar with SuSu’s offerings but are their trousers lined? I wouldn’t describe 4 ply as a fall/winter cloth though in the slightest and unlined I find them to pretty much be perfect for the seasons you described. 2 ply I wouldn’t wear except for the hottest days. I just don’t think there is enough benefit to the light weight to justify the trade offs when 4 ply exists.

Ascot has 2, 4 and 6 ply. If I recall it’s like 240, 370 and 480gms.

Off the rack they're lined 3/4 down the thigh area. MTM you can choose to go full-lined with no additional charge.

The weight and drape is there for the 4-ply, but I find it hard to pair with a thin knit polo/sweater up top.

 

[Despos]

There's a lighter weight 3 ply? in the Ascot bunch that I believe @Despos swears by.

The cloth I like is the high twist in the Finmeresco book,
Styles SW4133 to SW4138

FYI those are the only high twist yarns in the book. Verified with Smiths about using high twist yarns and this is their response.

"We have to use High Twist core spun yarn for the lighter weight cloths in order for them to perform better, less creasing etc

The 3 & 4 ply along with the Mock Leno cloths use a lot of 21 micron yarn which already makes them bullet proof without the need for high twisting – same story with Springram, these coarser yarns don’t need added resilience."

 

[aristoi bcn]

Putting together some of my spring/summer unfunded liabilities. All are HFW Frescos/Rangoon.

- Heavy Mock Leno by Kolecho for a jacket, 3 patch pockets and spalla camicia
- Light grey 2 ply for trousers, flat front, western pockets, belt loops
- Dark grey and Light grey high twist/Fresco Lite for trousers, 1 pleat, belt loops
- Charcoal and navy Rangoon by Kolecho for suits, regular shoulder, jetted pockets, trousers with 2 pleats and belt loops

 

[camez_]

nice haul

 

[The Chai]

I think my unfunded liabilities currently are like 5 different lengths of mohairs

 

[Bespoke DJP]

I think my unfunded liabilities currently are like 5 different lengths of mohairs

No surprise there my dear @The Chai!


Best,

Dimitris

 

[The Chai]

No surprise there my dear @The Chai!


Best,

Dimitris

I have branched off to tweeds, boucles and sporting fabrics so I guess I have grown up a little...my latest obsession is wool crepes and faille weaves

 

[Leiito]

Putting together some of my spring/summer unfunded liabilities. All are HFW Frescos/Rangoon.

- Heavy Mock Leno by Kolecho for a jacket, 3 patch pockets and spalla camicia
- Light grey 2 ply for trousers, flat front, western pockets, belt loops
- Dark grey and Light grey high twist/Fresco Lite for trousers, 1 pleat, belt loops
- Charcoal and navy Rangoon by Kolecho for suits, regular shoulder, jetted pockets, trousers with 2 pleats and belt loops

View attachment 1944933

View attachment 1944935

what's a Kolecho, though?

 

[aristoi bcn]

Kolecho is a member who organizes limited cloth runs with great taste.

 

[c689]

Looking for good quality cotten/linen blend shirting fabric, any recommandation and website to buy?

 

[Leiito]

Kolecho is a member who organizes limited cloth runs with great taste.

I see. Quite a secretive business, cloth, it's not like buying an iPhone.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Looking for good quality cotten/linen blend shirting fabric, any recommandation and website to buy?

Carlo Riva Lino Arsenal. Have your shirt maker buy it though instead of getting it through Fox or Merino - it’s significantly less expensive.

Bonfanti has some good blends on sale currently if you’re after just plain white and insist on sourcing it yourself.

DJA has some nice options in the Zephir 170 bunch.

Caccioppoli has some basic blends in their summer shirting bunch that I like for casual options that aren’t as finely woven or for the extra hot days when I don’t care about opacity.

 

[The_Schmidt]

Looking for good quality cotten/linen blend shirting fabric, any recommandation and website to buy?

Last year I got myself a bunch of cotton/linen shirts. I chose four different shirtings:

Alumo:

Got the white for dress shirt (its also Zephirlino) and the upper striped one as button down

Albini:

I chose the light blue Fiandre for dress shirts

Caccioppoli:

Again, I chose that one for a dress shirt

I honestly like all of them and dont feel much of a difference.
Only exception is the Albini, which, after a summer of wear, I dont like stylistically that much anymore. I should have chosen more than one of the Caccioppoli instead of the "plain" Albinis.