Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[konoyaro]

Looking to commission a pair of pants with a glen check pattern.
Something that leans to wearing cooler in warmer climates but can still hold a crease reasonably well.
So far I'm considering:

Drapers / VBC 18001 and 5305​

Huddersfield "Sunny Season Classics III" 153426​

Dugdale "Tropicalair" 4700​

Also interesting but more of an unknown for me:

Marling & Evans Lockwood/16806/F6​

Any clear winners above or others I should be considering?

 

[bernoulli]

Looking to commission a pair of pants with a glen check pattern.
Something that leans to wearing cooler in warmer climates but can still hold a crease reasonably well.
So far I'm considering:

Drapers / VBC 18001 and 5305​

Huddersfield "Sunny Season Classics III" 153426​

Dugdale "Tropicalair" 4700​

Also interesting but more of an unknown for me:

Marling & Evans Lockwood/16806/F6​

Any clear winners above or others I should be considering?

Fresco. Ignore the styling. Here is how https://www.hfwltd.com/single_piece/510264 in the Fresco III bunch looks IRL. I like its contrast (I can't tell if the other fabrics you selected have a similar contrasting pattern). Still muted enough to work if you want to go conservative but with enough contrast that makes it pop a bit more than some of the checks that look almost solid from some distance.

 

[classicalthunde]

The Italians have tried for years to mimic English cloth. This was a decent attempt, but not as good as the Five Star bunch.

They do a wonderful job with high twist cloth that doesn’t feel like sand paper. Drapers 4 Ply is one of the very best.

Did Superbrio completely replace 5-stars?

I don’t get why companies discontinue bunches that are well received and popular.

I know the perceived wisdom is that it’s best to have your tailor purchase fabric for you, but this is part of the reason I seek out certain cut lengths for commissions 2-4 years down the line.

 

[JHWilliams]

Yes, it did. It’s still a nice bunch, but not anything that would cause me to select it over a true English worsted.

Did Superbrio completely replace 5-stars?

I don’t get why companies discontinue bunches that are well received and popular.

I know the perceived wisdom is that it’s best to have your tailor purchase fabric for you, but this is part of the reason I seek out certain cut lengths for commissions 2-4 years down the line.

 

[camez_]

Okay so this is a question that's already most likely beaten to death in this thread but here I go.

I am planning to commission a business suit, something quite sombre and conservative, to be made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury.

I am looking for top-quality dark navy cloth recommendations, something hard-wearing, to be worn in the autumn/winter/spring here in the UK. I was thinking c.13oz is a good all-around weight for this purpose.

I've done some digging in the thread and I've identified a few potential candidates:

- Lesser's No.303 13oz
- Smith's Botany 12/13 oz
- Harrison's Oyster 13oz
- Minnis Classic II / Crown Classic

I haven't seen samples in person yet so I don't have any real impressions of either but instinctively I've been leaning towards the Lesser's 13oz.

I'd be really grateful for some first-hand impressions and, of course, any other advice - have I missed something else that's worthwhile?

Did you consider Holland & Sherry City of London, Dugdale's English & Town Classics and Standeven's British Classics?

 

[te0o]

Did you consider Holland & Sherry City of London, Dugdale's English & Town Classics and Standeven's British Classics?

I haven't and thank you for the suggestions - I will definitely look at those too.

I am sure they're all solid English cloths but is there one that stands out from the others in terms of quality and performance?

 

[camez_]

Did Superbrio completely replace 5-stars?

I don’t get why companies discontinue bunches that are well received and popular.

I know the perceived wisdom is that it’s best to have your tailor purchase fabric for you, but this is part of the reason I seek out certain cut lengths for commissions 2-4 years down the line.

yes but most of the cloth is still in there, so only a couple of striped options have been discontinued
nothing to worry about imo

 

[camez_]

I haven't and thank you for the suggestions - I will definitely look at those too.

I am sure they're all solid English cloths but is there one that stands out from the others in terms of quality and performance?

i really like city of london, sturdy typical british cloth
one of my clients loves botany for its softness (it's merinowool after all) and durability

 

[konoyaro]

Fresco. Ignore the styling. Here is how https://www.hfwltd.com/single_piece/510264 in the Fresco III bunch looks IRL. I like its contrast (I can't tell if the other fabrics you selected have a similar contrasting pattern). Still muted enough to work if you want to go conservative but with enough contrast that makes it pop a bit more than some of the checks that look almost solid from some distance.

Thanks @bernoulli - I may have passed it over earlier for looking a bit muted in comparison to some of the other options.

 

[R.O. Thornhill]

Okay so this is a question that's already most likely beaten to death in this thread but here I go.

I am planning to commission a business suit, something quite sombre and conservative, to be made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury.

I am looking for top-quality dark navy cloth recommendations, something hard-wearing, to be worn in the autumn/winter/spring here in the UK. I was thinking c.13oz is a good all-around weight for this purpose.

I've done some digging in the thread and I've identified a few potential candidates:

- Lesser's No.303 13oz
- Smith's Botany 12/13 oz
- Harrison's Oyster 13oz
- Minnis Classic II / Crown Classic

I haven't seen samples in person yet so I don't have any real impressions of either but instinctively I've been leaning towards the Lesser's 13oz.

I'd be really grateful for some first-hand impressions and, of course, any other advice - have I missed something else that's worthwhile?

Some great options there. Not sure if Lesser is still as good as it was. Somehow, in the last ten years whenever I have wanted a mid-weight conservative business suit I have ended up with Botany. And they have all been great

 

[te0o]

Some great options there. Not sure if Lesser is still as good as it was. Somehow, in the last ten years whenever I have wanted a mid-weight conservative business suit I have ended up with Botany. And they have all been great

Thank you!

How would you say the fact that Botany is merino impacts the hand, durability and drape?

 

[Baked Potato]

Just a thought that crossed my mind; a classic double breasted suit in navy. Not sure if this is something I'll go forward with just yet, but planning to discuss it with my tailor. What do you guys think fabric wise? Perhaps a classic navy twill? I know that they use VBC's twills for their RTW line. Otherwise, I found these two from Dugdales (a lighter and a heavier variant). What do you guys think? Would the 400g one be too heavy to use as a three season suit?

 

[camez_]

Just a thought that crossed my mind; a classic double breasted suit in navy. Not sure if this is something I'll go forward with just yet, but planning to discuss it with my tailor. What do you guys think fabric wise? Perhaps a classic navy twill? I know that they use VBC's twills for their RTW line. Otherwise, I found these two from Dugdales (a lighter and a heavier variant). What do you guys think? Would the 400g one be too heavy to use as a three season suit?

go with the heavier one

 

[Stone]

Just a thought that crossed my mind; a classic double breasted suit in navy. Not sure if this is something I'll go forward with just yet, but planning to discuss it with my tailor. What do you guys think fabric wise? Perhaps a classic navy twill? I know that they use VBC's twills for their RTW line. Otherwise, I found these two from Dugdales (a lighter and a heavier variant). What do you guys think? Would the 400g one be too heavy to use as a three season suit?

I’ve got a navy double breasted suit in the works using this 370g Drapers 4-ply https://drapersitaly.it/us-en/collection/18059/. Hoping I’ll get a lot of use out of it, concerned it’ll be neither here nor there—a classic business suit that’s a little too attention grabbing because it’s a DB, a warm weather fabric in a cut that might wear hot. We’ll see.

 

[bernoulli]

I’ve got a navy double breasted suit in the works using this 370g Drapers 4-ply https://drapersitaly.it/us-en/collection/18059/. Hoping I’ll get a lot of use out of it, concerned it’ll be neither here nor there—a classic business suit that’s a little too attention grabbing because it’s a DB, a warm weather fabric in a cut that might wear hot. We’ll see.

Funny. Your considerations are precisely the reason why I went in the opposite direction. I got a Mockleno navy DB suit that stands out a bit due to the fabric's texture (but not a lot) and wears cool enough to wear all the time.