Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[corpseposeur]

I recently found a vintage Oxxford overcoat in 100% vicuna on eBay.

I purchased it because I was mostly curious about this rare and expensive cloth.

However I really can't distinguish it from a good quality cashmere.

 

[AriGold]

I just put in an order for a peak lapel double breasted sports coat in this Linen/Wool/Silk (55%/37%/8%) blend by Solbiati (Time-Off collection)…. This weight is a 9oz / 250-260g. Just wondering whether or not this fabric will drape and hold well given the weight, or is it too light? Is there enough body/texture to look good for summer?

What do you think of the grey pattern for a DB sports coat?

 

[Concordia]

It’s already wrinkling just sitting there in the book. But that will be part of the charm, and the DB cut might keep in place better. FWIW, I have done a DB sport jacket in good heavy Irish linen and often wished it weren’t so sturdy. Drape, etc.

 

[paborden]

So, just got done watching Vengeance, and found the general aesthetic they put Ashton Kutcher's character in quite inspiring, moreso now that I'm spending more time in Texas.

Love the cream pinstripe and would love to find something like that in linen? Anyone seen anything?

A white suit is easy enough to find but that embroidery is actually amazing. Does anyone know where you can get embroidery like that done?

And don't get me started on the hats. I want both of them. Any guesses there?

 

[Stone]

A white suit is easy enough to find but that embroidery is actually amazing. Does anyone know where you can get embroidery like that done?

I like it too. This place—https://ftlonesome.com/—does custom chainstitch embroidery. I've thought about sending something there, but haven't done it yet.

 

[JohnMRobie]

So, just got done watching Vengeance, and found the general aesthetic they put Ashton Kutcher's character in quite inspiring, moreso now that I'm spending more time in Texas.

View attachment 1865529

Love the cream pinstripe and would love to find something like that in linen? Anyone seen anything?

View attachment 1865530

A white suit is easy enough to find but that embroidery is actually amazing. Does anyone know where you can get embroidery like that done?

And don't get me started on the hats. I want both of them. Any guesses there?

You may find this post of interest. https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...thread-about-new-tailors.699931/post-11038047

As for the hats - Have you considered something custom? Northwestern Hats seems like a pretty reasonably priced gateway into that without going nuts.

 

[ericgereghty]

I just put in an order for a peak lapel double breasted sports coat in this Linen/Wool/Silk (55%/37%/8%) blend by Solbiati (Time-Off collection)…. This weight is a 9oz / 250-260g. Just wondering whether or not this fabric will drape and hold well given the weight, or is it too light? Is there enough body/texture to look good for summer?

What do you think of the grey pattern for a DB sports coat?

View attachment 1865463

View attachment 1865462

I wouldn't go DB on this, but, regardless, embrace wrinkling, unless you wear this into the office and strip down to shirt sleeves. At that weight, 50%+ linen composition is going to invite wrinkles from the get go.

 

[paborden]

You may find this post of interest. https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...thread-about-new-tailors.699931/post-11038047

That post was just what I was looking for. Next question is whether to use a linen suit or a gabardine (or something else) suit as a base...

 

[JohnMRobie]

That post was just what I was looking for. Next question is whether to use a linen suit or a gabardine (or something else) suit as a base...

Gabardine or prunelle would be my vote. Drapers taupes and creams are always excellent - check Cotton Club.

 

[mack11211]

By the way, is there anyway to access Loro Piana's different books through the web?

Best way is through the LP app:

‎eFabrics

‎eFabrics is the innovative Loro Piana textile App, that allows you to discover all the Loro Piana and Solbiati offer, 3D fabrics, novelties and much more. Choose the perfect fabric, check its availability on real time and purchase it in just a few steps. The section about “News” proposes all...

apps.apple.com

in the dropdown, you can choose either Loro Piana or Solbiati

 

[Baked Potato]

Best way is through the LP app:

‎eFabrics

‎eFabrics is the innovative Loro Piana textile App, that allows you to discover all the Loro Piana and Solbiati offer, 3D fabrics, novelties and much more. Choose the perfect fabric, check its availability on real time and purchase it in just a few steps. The section about “News” proposes all...

apps.apple.com

in the dropdown, you can choose either Loro Piana or Solbiati

Thanks. Seems like I need some kind of account to sign in (no trace of an account creation page to be found). Although I got another link a page back where LP's fabrics are listed.

By the way, I was thinking of commissioning a jacket for winter use. What do you guys think about either LP's 667032 (370g wool) or 667037 (330-350g baby camel)? Both are from their blazer book. Are they too plain for an odd jacket? The first one looked quite luxurious when I saw a sample a couple of days ago.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Thanks. Seems like I need some kind of account to sign in (no trace of an account creation page to be found). Although I got another link a page back where LP's fabrics are listed.

By the way, I was thinking of commissioning a jacket for winter use. What do you guys think about either LP's 667032 (370g wool) or 667037 (330-350g baby camel)? Both are from their blazer book. Are they too plain for an odd jacket? The first one looked quite luxurious when I saw a sample a couple of days ago.

First of all, you need to check availability of those fabrics because the bunch is not a new one. This can be easily done by your tailor or MTM house that you will use should the have a professional account with and hence an access to the on-line system of LP.

About the said selection: 667032 is a very nice one with a proper weight; I believe that it calls for a Blazer, being more refined, and this is its destined use according to the maker. On the other hand, and these are purely personal views, I see the 667037 working more as a Sport Coat, being more hairy, thus more rustic.


Best,

Dimitris

 

[oscarthewild]

Got a linen - wool Drago made up.

Thank you

-

 

[xizenta]

Asking this again, has anyone here had any suits or trousers made of lightweight escorial (9-11 oz)? I would like to know how it performs in holding a crease.

Might make a suit out of this next:

100% Escorial Wool 3 Ply Lightweight Suiting Cloth 20023

Stock supported, cut lengths for tailoring. Standeven 1885 - the tailor's mill, weaving Escorial wool cloth in England for luxury business suits.

www.standevenfabrics.co.uk

..

 

[Sreezy36]

What’s up guys! I want to give a special thanks and shoutout to longtime SF member and vintage cloth provider @edmorel . He is truly a class act guy!!!

A while back I purchased this vintage cashmere 45% and 55% silk Zegna Glencheck from Ed for my Neapolitan bespoke project. The transaction was smooth and the shipping was exceptionally fast.

Fast forward……Upon completion of the jacket project, I noticed a lot of tightness and range of motion issues with my jacket. As it turns out, my upper sleeves are too narrow and need to be modified. This will ultimately require a full remake of my sleeves. Fortunately, my tailor has very graciously agreed to remake the sleeves, as long as I am able to procure the necessary length of cloth.

A few days ago I contacted Ed regarding my predicament and asked him about acquiring a small length of cloth for my sleeve modification. Although jacket lengths are no longer available, Ed was able to find for me a small .73 meter length and agreed to ship it to me at no cost. I can not tell you how grateful I am for his kindness and service. It is a blessing to have people like him on this forum that are willing to go out of their way to help people. For this, reason I wanted share my experience and send a special thank you to Ed Morel.