Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Crispyj]

Is this current stock?

No, it was a special run for Ciccio Japan.

 

[Warrant_Buffet]

Don't know if this is the right place to ask but where would you source ribbing made with natural fibers? I'm looking to have a zip jacket made and have bought a good length of wool / cashmere jersey, but getting the ribbing turns out to be the challenging part🤦

 

[Slickman]

No, it was a special run for Ciccio Japan.

Any of it leftover? Looks awesome

 

[Crispyj]

Any of it leftover? Looks awesome

Not sure, I sourced it from one of Ciccio's Chinese clients. Can search on the web and ask. I think they have a website.

 

[double00]

Don't know if this is the right place to ask but where would you source ribbing made with natural fibers? I'm looking to have a zip jacket made and have bought a good length of wool / cashmere jersey, but getting the ribbing turns out to be the challenging part🤦

https://www.moodfabrics.com/trims/trims-chains/rib-knit-trim

just search for rib knit trim it's out there

 

[Concordia]

This can work too. I particularly like Daniel's blazer (first pic). If you're going trad, then go all the way!

Yup. A standard preppy formula-- the main offering from Brooks Brothers for some decades. Welted pocket dials the whole thing back a bit, or you can look more continental by going for three open patch pockets without the double row of stitching.

 

[Slickman]

Not sure, I sourced it from one of Ciccio's Chinese clients. Can search on the web and ask. I think they have a website.

Will do thanks

 

[Baked Potato]

Saw that Holland & Sherry offers flannel fabrics at around 560g when I was looking for trouser fabrics today (commissioned a pair of trousers, although in a more modest weight). When do you wear such heavy trousers? Only suitable for use in the country side? Any use for such trousers in the city, or would they be too warm for office wear?

 

[Stone]

Saw that Holland & Sherry offers flannel fabrics at around 560g when I was looking for trouser fabrics today (commissioned a pair of trousers, although in a more modest weight). When do you wear such heavy trousers? Only suitable for use in the country side? Any use for such trousers in the city, or would they be too warm for office wear?

At air conditioned temperatures, I find heavy trouser fabrics (500+ gram fox flannels, 600 gram cavalry twills) just as comfortable as lighter ones. The difference is that those heavy trousers remain comfortable outdoors if it's cold.

 

[Baked Potato]

At air conditioned temperatures, I find heavy trouser fabrics (500+ gram fox flannels, 600 gram cavalry twills) just as comfortable as lighter ones. The difference is that those heavy trousers remain comfortable outdoors if it's cold.

Well, it’ll get real cold here in Stockholm next week already. As it’s winter, heating is on everywhere indoors. The salesman I spoke to said that it might get a bit too warm for office wear.

Would such heavy flannels need to be fully lined? I have my regular flannels fully lined. I guess the heavier ones would be a bit more “scratchy” and thus in need of lining. At the same time, I guess they might just get too heavy?

 

[Concordia]

Fully lined helps. One comment made years ago here is just as useful-- places like New York often have coffee shops and diners that have a lot of cold air coming in from the outside. You get a real cold January or February day, and you'll be glad for that if you're walking around town. Also, if you are walking around, the cloth will slowly absorb cold air to the point that you won't feel all that bad in the office. And if you do, keep the temperature below 70F.

 

[Stone]

Well, it’ll get real cold here in Stockholm next week already. As it’s winter, heating is on everywhere indoors. The salesman I spoke to said that it might get a bit too warm for office wear.

Would such heavy flannels need to be fully lined? I have my regular flannels fully lined. I guess the heavier ones would be a bit more “scratchy” and thus in need of lining. At the same time, I guess they might just get too heavy?

Hm, my heavy flannel trousers aren’t particularly soft and they’re unlined, but I don’t find them itchy—nothing like a fresco or a mohair. It might be nice to line them, though, for added warmth. A long time ago I had a pair of fully lined tan heavy cotton twill trousers from the first season of Brooks Brothers Black Fleece and those felt incredible.

this is more or less what I’ve learned about how I respond to different fabric weights:

>75F: all tailored clothing feels hot
70-75F: lighter weight cloths are nice
50F-70F: weight doesn’t really matter, everything feels comfortable.
>50F: heavier the better

 

[JHWilliams]

Saw that Holland & Sherry offers flannel fabrics at around 560g when I was looking for trouser fabrics today (commissioned a pair of trousers, although in a more modest weight). When do you wear such heavy trousers? Only suitable for use in the country side? Any use for such trousers in the city, or would they be too warm for office wear?

The have a pair of heavyweight flannel trousers. They are supremely comfortable and warm in the winter.

 

[Fad P]

Saw that Holland & Sherry offers flannel fabrics at around 560g when I was looking for trouser fabrics today (commissioned a pair of trousers, although in a more modest weight). When do you wear such heavy trousers? Only suitable for use in the country side? Any use for such trousers in the city, or would they be too warm for office wear?

I def think they will be ok to wear in the city.

 

[xizenta]

Here's some swatches I found interesting from the trunk show in Los Angeles with Antonio Pastena (x-post from the Unofficial Sartoria Pastena Elegance thread).

Fabrics include:

Standeven Primavera Escorial 20022, 20023 (possible suits)
Fox Air FA16, FA35 (possible suits)
Holland and Sherry Crispaire 337043 (trousers)
Fox Flannel CL11 (odd trousers or odd jacket), CL27 (trousers), CL30 (suit)
Drapers Ascot 18017, 18018, 18022 (possible suits)

Has anyone seen any of these made up? Also, how well does the escorial hold a crease for trousers?