Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[JHWilliams]

Fearnought is definitely on the heavy end of that, and is a bit shy of design alternatives. That said, I want to try the 'light navy' (quasi-RAF) twill at some point. Lesser 13 used to rule whenever you didn't want to reach to 16oz. But that was pre-merger. I don't know if that is still correct. There is also Lesser 13oz Golden Bale, which is very nice but not the same purpose, exactly.

Then over on London Lounge, there are two or three different quality lines that are coming up with some splendidly boring classics in the mid/heavyweight category

I was disappointed with the colors and patterns in the Fearnought bunch. I was hoping for just a bit more of a refined handle. It’s just a hair too harsh for me.

English & Town Classics is even more harsh on the handle in 14/15 ounces. I have a few suits from this bunch. Sturdy cloth, decent drape.

 

[kolecho]

What book is the current mid/heavy worsted king these days? Lesser 13? Fearnought?

Besides those already quoted by you and others, there's also Smith Woollens but not sure of quality these days. Harrisons Oyster AKA Thistle is solid as well.

 

[Slickman]

Thanks. Saw the new fox worsted classics, could be a winner. Will have to request some swatches.

 

[Nico]

Anyone's got some first hand experience with the Tailor and Lodge Iconic Collection? Some classic worsted in there too.

 

[Guizp]

Anyone's got some first hand experience with the Tailor and Lodge Iconic Collection? Some classic worsted in there too.

I have a SB suit in a LGB grey ( ref: AVR/66834/C3 ) and will have the navy sharkskin LGB to be made soon.

My tailor and I find the book really nice. Good drape, stays in shape during the day.
Feels English also but has a nice hand.

 

[Concordia]

> Lesser > ?

 

[camez_]

What book is the current mid/heavy worsted king these days? Lesser 13? Fearnought?

botany

 

[Concordia]

Botany used to be an alternative to Lesser 13. Frank Shattuck laid into it soon after the merger, saying it was nowhere near what it was. On the other hand, Lesser has also shown signs of coasting on its brand equity. And both labels are owned by Harrisons.

 

[JHWilliams]

Botany used to be an alternative to Lesser 13. Frank Shattuck laid into it soon after the merger, saying it was nowhere near what it was. On the other hand, Lesser has also shown signs of coasting on its brand equity. And both labels are owned by Harrisons.

Frank has the old books to compare to the new. He is spot on.

 

[Concordia]

I still have some Lesser 13 suits from 20 years ago. I can't say I have worn them a ton every year, but they still feel like armor.

Only one Botany suit-- lovely RAF/Char-blue sharkskin. Pre-merger-- very good also.

 

[lordsuperb]

I still have some Lesser 13 suits from 20 years ago. I can't say I have worn them a ton every year, but they still feel like armor.

Only one Botany suit-- lovely RAF/Char-blue sharkskin. Pre-merger-- very good also.

Can you get Alden to make more of the R & T Herringbone ?

 

[Slickman]

Hard to find something that has a nice hand, the p&b and dugdale stuff is dry but the finishing isnt my cup of tea, the old lesser 16 and botany were finished so nicely, just mho

 

[Concordia]

Can you get Alden to make more of the R & T Herringbone ?

Those are very different from the Botany and Lesser 13. But also very nice. I have made two (lost one to moths) and have a few safety copies in the archives.

 

[lordsuperb]

Those are very different from the Botany and Lesser 13. But also very nice. I have made two (lost one to moths) and have a few safety copies in the archives.

Available to purchase?

 

[JHWilliams]

Can you get Alden to make more of the R & T Herringbone ?

i was disappointed to have missed out on those subscriptions. They were offered before I joined the forum. There was a grey and blue herringbone, as I recall ?