Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Sreezy36]

a little birdie told me that Fox Air and Dugdale Tropical Air are the same thing...

from my experience they feel slightly different. Definitely not the same. However, it wouldn’t surprise me if the same mill produced both bunches.

 

[classicalthunde]

from my experience they feel slightly different. Definitely not the same. However, it wouldn’t surprise me if the same mill produced both bunches.

haven't handled either personally, just passing along what I had heard in case it helps someone else out.

 

[ckessani]

I've used a 80/20 wool/linen from Alfred Brown and been very pleased with the result for a summer suit. I actually just wore mine yesterday in the 100° Chicago heat and I was shocked how comfortable it was (seersucker shirt helped.)
My two cents on blue is that the finished garment always looks much "bluer" than the swatch. Royal blue is going to look very, very blue. If that's the look you want then go for it, but I find a navy to be more versatile.

Good point, i definitely do not want sonething too blue, given my olive skin it could look quite bad!

 

[Maron]

Wondering if anyone can make a recommendation for a summer wool jacketing. Here's my ideal:
1. Perhaps a wool-linen-silk blend, but I'm open to something else cool-wearing with the right texture
2. Subtle check/plaid
3. Darkish muted brown--maybe brown and grey woven together, ideally with a navy or quite subtle blue overcheck
4. Something with some texture, perhaps from the linen or from slubby silk, maybe a little texture to the wool

Any suggestions where to look?

 

[reidd]

Wondering if anyone can make a recommendation for a summer wool jacketing. Here's my ideal:
1. Perhaps a wool-linen-silk blend, but I'm open to something else cool-wearing with the right texture
2. Subtle check/plaid
3. Darkish muted brown--maybe brown and grey woven together, ideally with a navy or quite subtle blue overcheck
4. Something with some texture, perhaps from the linen or from slubby silk, maybe a little texture to the wool

Any suggestions where to look?

Cacciopoli specialize in just this kind of thing. They come out with a new book every Spring and it’s basically exactly what you describe.

 

[taxgenius]

Wondering if anyone can make a recommendation for a summer wool jacketing. Here's my ideal:
1. Perhaps a wool-linen-silk blend, but I'm open to something else cool-wearing with the right texture
2. Subtle check/plaid
3. Darkish muted brown--maybe brown and grey woven together, ideally with a navy or quite subtle blue overcheck
4. Something with some texture, perhaps from the linen or from slubby silk, maybe a little texture to the wool

Any suggestions where to look?

would love to see what you end up with

 

[JohnMRobie]

Wondering if anyone can make a recommendation for a summer wool jacketing. Here's my ideal:
1. Perhaps a wool-linen-silk blend, but I'm open to something else cool-wearing with the right texture
2. Subtle check/plaid
3. Darkish muted brown--maybe brown and grey woven together, ideally with a navy or quite subtle blue overcheck
4. Something with some texture, perhaps from the linen or from slubby silk, maybe a little texture to the wool

Any suggestions where to look?

Loro Piana Mare, Caccioppoli 3201 Jackets, 3202 Suits, 3001 Jackets would be the most accessible

 

[ckessani]

Wondering if anyone can make a recommendation for a summer wool jacketing. Here's my ideal:
1. Perhaps a wool-linen-silk blend, but I'm open to something else cool-wearing with the right texture
2. Subtle check/plaid
3. Darkish muted brown--maybe brown and grey woven together, ideally with a navy or quite subtle blue overcheck
4. Something with some texture, perhaps from the linen or from slubby silk, maybe a little texture to the wool

Any suggestions where to look?

Why not Minnis Fresco III (the 9/10oz part)? There is the famous not-quite-RAF that was once #521. And others, as well. Can wear to the office, to the opera, or lunch in town.

The most available high twist open weave for me is drapers ascot 4 ply at 177 per euro although likely much less through the tailr. Is pursuing fox air/fox city going to give me a smoother more luxurious end result or is it simply a different version of the same thing? The colors and patterns do seem more my taste at leasr

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Could use some help picking a blue suit fabric. Main purpose is end of summer wedding but don't have any other bespoke garments so some versatility would be welcome, mainly leisure related. I live in us on the east coast.

Tailer has pointed me in the way of loro piana 703 natural stretch 220 gr 150 cloth in royal blue.

I am also looking at drapers 90 10 wool silk mix 250 gr only the pinstripe is available, but i quite like the look of it.

Drapers 4 ply fresco is an option but there didn't seem to be a good blue in the bunch and im not sure what the end result would look like. Any suggestions would be appreciated. View attachment 1803274 View attachment 1803277

A 220g wool may not tailor very well and would be prone to a lot of wrinkling.

Since I'm currently on a Standeven kick, how about the Carnival kid mohair/wool?

 

[ckessani]

A 220g wool may not tailor very well and would be prone to a lot of wrinkling.

Since I'm currently on a Standeven kick, how about the Carnival kid mohair/wool?
View attachment 1803382

Yea thought the same about about the 220 fabric, what about the wool silk at 250gr. Will that have similar issues?

 

[taxgenius]

Loro Piana Mare, Caccioppoli 3201 Jackets, 3202 Suits, 3001 Jackets would be the most accessible

I have had my eyes on this one for a while.

 

[The Chai]

A 220g wool may not tailor very well and would be prone to a lot of wrinkling.

Since I'm currently on a Standeven kick, how about the Carnival kid mohair/wool?
View attachment 1803382

I like the carnival mohair. Drapes very well and feels lighter than it actually is.

 

[LittleDab]

Following back up here now that I've had a chance to wear the 11oz Standeven Explorer a few times.
View attachment 1802353
The weave is very open and breathable. I walked 7 blocks in this suit today in 90 degree DC weather and didn't break a sweat. Wrinkle resistance and durability are high. This fabric really bounces back and holds a crease perfectly.

However, it's definitely on the coarser side (some might say "scratchy"). Personally that doesn't bother me and in fact I think it gives it some pretty incredible moisture wicking properties, so you don't get that horrible sticky feeling on your legs. But it takes a little getting used to, especially if you typically wear smoother worsteds and flannels.

Beautiful! Love the suit and the fabric looks great. Thanks for sharing. I'm even more excited for mine now

 

[L.deJong]

haven't handled either personally, just passing along what I had heard in case it helps someone else out.

I have both bunches here. Tried them side by side and can tell you that Fox Air is a little less rough.
Fox air is also different when it comes to colours, there is more use of different colours and less 'boring'.
While there is also enough of the usual blues and greys.

I went with Dugdale Tropicalair, it was way cheaper for me, and they had the right shade of grey.
It's the same weight, and as stated I think it's the same weaver that weaves them both.

 

[Buster]

I have had my eyes on this one for a while.

From this bunch, I just got this one done.
And very few of my jackets get more compliments.