Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[JohnMRobie]

Has anyone had anything made up from the new Maison Hellard linen book? Wondering how it compares to Solbiati's Art Du Lin.

I don't, but a friend of mine has a jacket in it. He said he likes it -- softer that W Bill, stiffer than Solbiati -- but is not sure if he would use the fabric for pants. For that reason, I went with W Bill because I'm getting a suit. But @Jmr928 is currently getting a suit in Hellard linen and can probably say more once he gets the garment.



I would do shell, but I think both would look nice.

What DWW said. Solbati is a touch heavier but softer. I think the solid from MH I got is 330gms? I've got a fitting in a few weeks so hopefully I'll have some time to wear it a bit and share some feedback before I head out on paternity leave mid-summer.

I was awfully tempted to order something in the W. Bill bunch or try to track down some of the heavier linen in the Mersolair bunch as well and be able to compare but with being out most of our warm season and a couple warm weather projects already in the hopper for this summer I think that'll be a project for next year.

For whatever it's worth, Maison Hellard has a twill and a plain weave in the bunch. If you're thinking about jacketing, some of the patterned fabrics in the bunch look really wonderful. Unique colors, great hand, really cool depth to them that you can't really see from the online photos.

 

[Contingency Plan]

Cheers, guys - I've a suit made from W. Bill linen already, and one on the way from Dugdale Bros; I'll give Maison Hellard a go for a full suit (and yes, their patterned linens would make lovely sportcoats!)

 

[L.deJong]

I've gone belt for all my trousers, except the most formal of suits (like a dark worsted). I think a belt adds something nice to an outfit and it's a chance to accessorize.

The only thing is the rise. If the trousers are very, very high rise, then I think they look better without a belt.

I like my formal trousers with a very very high rise, a couple of centimetres above the natural waist. But I will always where those with suspenders and always with a jacket.

So I'm only used to wearing trousers like that, or rtw/mtm just above the hipbone with a belt or sidetabs.
That way the belt/waistband has something to rest on, so basically my trousers hang from the hipbone.

I will not go any lower than that, so this will probably still be called high-rise for most of you. I consider it mid-rise.

For the semi-casual trousers: belt + no cuffs + 1 pleat (French or Italian but I would opt for an Italian). I don't order any flat front anymore. The pleat brings some drama to the trousers.

For the suit trousers: sidetabs + cuffs + 1 or 2 pleats (I find difficult to Wear a 2 pleats pair as a separate).

It's the kind of formula which works well, at least for me and other guys.

Is your tailor from North Italia?

This suits my style! For linen: will go for belt, with 1 italian style pleat and cuffs.
Cuffs I will add for extra weight (as suggested by others).
I will still go for a pleat because I will wear them higher on the waist so I like to the extra room the pleads provide.

For the seperate suit trouser I will go for 1 pleat, cuffs and sidetabs. Because it's a more formal trouser.

All of them will sit lower at the waist, as said just above the hipbone.

Thanks for all the suggestions! I was going for double pleats and side tabs.
But reconsidering it that's indeed a bad idea for semi-casual trousers. So thanks again!

 

[Sreezy36]

Is it just me or did Huddersfield fine worsted just Jack up their prices by 50%? Fresco was around 55 gbp per meter. Now it’s selling for 80+ gbp per meter.

 

[classicalthunde]

Is it just me or did Huddersfield fine worsted just Jack up their prices by 50%? Fresco was around 55 gbp per meter. Now it’s selling for 80+ gbp per meter.

its not just you...I was looking at the Minnis flannel a few days ago and its now 130GBP per meter, on par with Fox Bros

 

[Marshak]

At the difference that Fox didn't wait the worldwide inflation to explode to increase their markups.

 

[Sreezy36]

What DWW said. Solbati is a touch heavier but softer. I think the solid from MH I got is 330gms? I've got a fitting in a few weeks so hopefully I'll have some time to wear it a bit and share some feedback before I head out on paternity leave mid-summer.

I was awfully tempted to order something in the W. Bill bunch or try to track down some of the heavier linen in the Mersolair bunch as well and be able to compare but with being out most of our warm season and a couple warm weather projects already in the hopper for this summer I think that'll be a project for next year.

For whatever it's worth, Maison Hellard has a twill and a plain weave in the bunch. If you're thinking about jacketing, some of the patterned fabrics in the bunch look really wonderful. Unique colors, great hand, really cool depth to them that you can't really see from the online photos.

did you go with the twill or plain weave? Im interested to see how they both wear and age. Imo, the best linen ages gracefully. Also, I am concerned that the twill weave may wear a bit warmer than the plain weave.

 

[JohnMRobie]

did you go with the twill or plain weave? Im interested to see how they both wear and age. Imo, the best linen ages gracefully. Also, I am concerned that the twill weave may wear a bit warmer than the plain weave.

I did the plain weave in a sort of mid-brown and funded the project this week.

 

[Contingency Plan]

I did the plain weave in a sort of mid-brown and funded the project this week.
View attachment 1773859

Nice! Looks like dark brown? Their tobacco and chocolate are lovely, too. I ordered suits in both their navy and forest green.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Nice! Looks like dark brown? Their tobacco and chocolate are lovely, too. I ordered suits in both their navy and forest green.

It's the brux de noix.

 

[bjhofkin]

Any direct experience with Standeven's Oxbridge flannel bunch?

I'd ordered samples a while back and forgotten about them – then they arrived today.

 

[dieworkwear]

Is it just me or did Huddersfield fine worsted just Jack up their prices by 50%? Fresco was around 55 gbp per meter. Now it’s selling for 80+ gbp per meter.

I bought some fabrics from them last year and felt the prices were higher than I remember but don't know the exact percentage.

 

[JHWilliams]

Any direct experience with Standeven's Oxbridge flannel bunch?

I'd ordered samples a while back and forgotten about them – then they arrived today.
[/QUOT

you should check out Heritage Twist and Churchill. Standeven shines with these collections.
The Oxbridge flannel is way too lightweight for a sturdy English flannel.

 

[JHWilliams]

London Lounge has three new luxury flannel subscriptions going. This ought to be good

 

[Sreezy36]

Any direct experience with Standeven's Oxbridge flannel bunch?

I'd ordered samples a while back and forgotten about them – then they arrived today.

London Lounge has three new luxury flannel subscriptions going. This ought to be good

@bjhofkin, London lounge is doing both a worsted+woollen and worsted 14+ ounce flannel in navy. Inspired by the vintage pre 2000’s lumbs golden bale flannel. Either one of those just might be the perfect cloth for your navy suit/jacket project. Unfortunately, London lounge does not provide samples and no one has any experience with the cloth. Therefore, you would have to take a “leap of faith” and trust MIchael Alden’s cloth expertise.

Michael Alden is very open to communicating and will likely promptly answer your emails and questions about the cloth.

If you do contact him, make sure to tell him about what exactly you are looking for and your intended use for the cloth. I can attest that he will give you honest feedback.