Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[L.deJong]

Maybe you can help me with my order...

Saturday I will go to my tailor, I can't describe how happy I am! He went on hiatus for 3 years, not of his doing of course.
He is pushing it to 78 years already, and I almost thought we would lose him because his home town was hit hard by the virus. So it's a wonder he can even make the journey from Italy.

But that leaves me to my order, I will be ordering a lot. Not only because I haven't bought a lot these past years. But I reckon that he will be closing shop pretty soon.

But it's the first time I will order trousers that I will probably wear without a jacket, normally I will always order my trousers really high-waisted so I can wear them with suspenders. But not with anything else because they are so high waisted.
This time I have options, using a belt or going beltless and for side tabs, this question almost drives me insane.

I will list the cloth here so you can make up your own mind:
One of them is what to do with these summer trousers (100% linen - Natural Elements by Dugdale):
First is Oatmeal second is cream:

Most of the details are known: 5cm/2inch cuffs, double pleats and on the seam pockets (standard for all my trousers).
But should I go for a belt or for side tabs, I will be wearing this standalone or with a jacket.
In the heat of summer, I will probably only wear a nice dress shirt. So suspenders are out of the question. I hate to wear suspenders without something covering them.

I will also be making a suit with two trousers, tropicalair by Dugdale. Really nice summer cloth.
One trouser made really high waisted for suspenders (to wear as a suit), and one trouser for wearing with belt or side tabs (as stand alone trouser).
Again should I go for a belt or for side tabs with the second trouser?

Then I will also be ordering a navy blue blazer from the London Lounge Ultimate blazer 2.
This of course is easy, just semi-soft shoulders, normal shoulder, patch pockets and probably lined.

Last but not least, I want to make up a chino in a nice semi-thin cotton (just your classic flat front khakis, so without the pleats).
And a nice grey flannel trouser (made up as standard trousers). Both of which I do not know what cloth I will be using.
So if you have some suggestions let me know!

BONUS me and my tailor:

 

[dieworkwear]

I've gone belt for all my trousers, except the most formal of suits (like a dark worsted). I think a belt adds something nice to an outfit and it's a chance to accessorize.

The only thing is the rise. If the trousers are very, very high rise, then I think they look better without a belt.

 

[Marshak]

Maybe you can help me with my order...

Saturday I will go to my tailor, I can't describe how happy I am! He went on hiatus for 3 years, not of his doing of course.
He is pushing it to 78 years already, and I almost thought we would lose him because his home town was hit hard by the virus. So it's a wonder he can even make the journey from Italy.

But that leaves me to my order, I will be ordering a lot. Not only because I haven't bought a lot these past years. But I reckon that he will be closing shop pretty soon.

But it's the first time I will order trousers that I will probably wear without a jacket, normally I will always order my trousers really high-waisted so I can wear them with suspenders. But not with anything else because they are so high waisted.
This time I have options, using a belt or going beltless and for side tabs, this question almost drives me insane.

I will list the cloth here so you can make up your own mind:
One of them is what to do with these summer trousers (100% linen - Natural Elements by Dugdale):
First is Oatmeal second is cream:

Most of the details are known: 5cm/2inch cuffs, double pleats and on the seam pockets (standard for all my trousers).
But should I go for a belt or for side tabs, I will be wearing this standalone or with a jacket.
In the heat of summer, I will probably only wear a nice dress shirt. So suspenders are out of the question. I hate to wear suspenders without something covering them.

I will also be making a suit with two trousers, tropicalair by Dugdale. Really nice summer cloth.
One trouser made really high waisted for suspenders (to wear as a suit), and one trouser for wearing with belt or side tabs (as stand alone trouser).
Again should I go for a belt or for side tabs with the second trouser?

Then I will also be ordering a navy blue blazer from the London Lounge Ultimate blazer 2.
This of course is easy, just semi-soft shoulders, normal shoulder, patch pockets and probably lined.

Last but not least, I want to make up a chino in a nice semi-thin cotton (just your classic flat front khakis, so without the pleats).
And a nice grey flannel trouser (made up as standard trousers). Both of which I do not know what cloth I will be using.
So if you have some suggestions let me know!

BONUS me and my tailor:

For the semi-casual trousers: belt + no cuffs + 1 pleat (French or Italian but I would opt for an Italian). I don't order any flat front anymore. The pleat brings some drama to the trousers.

For the suit trousers: sidetabs + cuffs + 1 or 2 pleats (I find difficult to Wear a 2 pleats pair as a separate).

It's the kind of formula which works well, at least for me and other guys.

Is your tailor from North Italia?

 

[Contingency Plan]

Has anyone had anything made up from the new Maison Hellard linen book? Wondering how it compares to Solbiati's Art Du Lin.

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Maybe you can help me with my order...

Saturday I will go to my tailor, I can't describe how happy I am! He went on hiatus for 3 years, not of his doing of course.
He is pushing it to 78 years already, and I almost thought we would lose him because his home town was hit hard by the virus. So it's a wonder he can even make the journey from Italy.

But that leaves me to my order, I will be ordering a lot. Not only because I haven't bought a lot these past years. But I reckon that he will be closing shop pretty soon.

But it's the first time I will order trousers that I will probably wear without a jacket, normally I will always order my trousers really high-waisted so I can wear them with suspenders. But not with anything else because they are so high waisted.
This time I have options, using a belt or going beltless and for side tabs, this question almost drives me insane.

I will list the cloth here so you can make up your own mind:
One of them is what to do with these summer trousers (100% linen - Natural Elements by Dugdale):
First is Oatmeal second is cream:

Most of the details are known: 5cm/2inch cuffs, double pleats and on the seam pockets (standard for all my trousers).
But should I go for a belt or for side tabs, I will be wearing this standalone or with a jacket.
In the heat of summer, I will probably only wear a nice dress shirt. So suspenders are out of the question. I hate to wear suspenders without something covering them.

I will also be making a suit with two trousers, tropicalair by Dugdale. Really nice summer cloth.
One trouser made really high waisted for suspenders (to wear as a suit), and one trouser for wearing with belt or side tabs (as stand alone trouser).
Again should I go for a belt or for side tabs with the second trouser?

Then I will also be ordering a navy blue blazer from the London Lounge Ultimate blazer 2.
This of course is easy, just semi-soft shoulders, normal shoulder, patch pockets and probably lined.

Last but not least, I want to make up a chino in a nice semi-thin cotton (just your classic flat front khakis, so without the pleats).
And a nice grey flannel trouser (made up as standard trousers). Both of which I do not know what cloth I will be using.
So if you have some suggestions let me know!

BONUS me and my tailor:

For linen trousers worn without jackets, I like medium rise, belt loops, flat front, and cuffed. The belt + flat front looks a little more casual but the cuffs add some weight to the hem for drape.

 

[hpreston]

Maybe you can help me with my order...

Saturday I will go to my tailor, I can't describe how happy I am! He went on hiatus for 3 years, not of his doing of course.
He is pushing it to 78 years already, and I almost thought we would lose him because his home town was hit hard by the virus. So it's a wonder he can even make the journey from Italy.

But that leaves me to my order, I will be ordering a lot. Not only because I haven't bought a lot these past years. But I reckon that he will be closing shop pretty soon.

But it's the first time I will order trousers that I will probably wear without a jacket, normally I will always order my trousers really high-waisted so I can wear them with suspenders. But not with anything else because they are so high waisted.
This time I have options, using a belt or going beltless and for side tabs, this question almost drives me insane.

I will list the cloth here so you can make up your own mind:
One of them is what to do with these summer trousers (100% linen - Natural Elements by Dugdale):
First is Oatmeal second is cream:

Most of the details are known: 5cm/2inch cuffs, double pleats and on the seam pockets (standard for all my trousers).
But should I go for a belt or for side tabs, I will be wearing this standalone or with a jacket.
In the heat of summer, I will probably only wear a nice dress shirt. So suspenders are out of the question. I hate to wear suspenders without something covering them.

I will also be making a suit with two trousers, tropicalair by Dugdale. Really nice summer cloth.
One trouser made really high waisted for suspenders (to wear as a suit), and one trouser for wearing with belt or side tabs (as stand alone trouser).
Again should I go for a belt or for side tabs with the second trouser?

Then I will also be ordering a navy blue blazer from the London Lounge Ultimate blazer 2.
This of course is easy, just semi-soft shoulders, normal shoulder, patch pockets and probably lined.

Last but not least, I want to make up a chino in a nice semi-thin cotton (just your classic flat front khakis, so without the pleats).
And a nice grey flannel trouser (made up as standard trousers). Both of which I do not know what cloth I will be using.
So if you have some suggestions let me know!

BONUS me and my tailor:

Agree with much that has already been said.

For casual trousers (to be worn without jackets) I can go either belt (adds another outfit element, and visual interest) or beltless/side tabs. Rise is important, too high and belted does look weird (see the film, Her)

Flat front w/ cuffs as TSB stated. I am also trying out a shallow single pleat with cuffs for separate trousers....

 

[lordsuperb]

Maybe you can help me with my order...

Saturday I will go to my tailor, I can't describe how happy I am! He went on hiatus for 3 years, not of his doing of course.
He is pushing it to 78 years already, and I almost thought we would lose him because his home town was hit hard by the virus. So it's a wonder he can even make the journey from Italy.

But that leaves me to my order, I will be ordering a lot. Not only because I haven't bought a lot these past years. But I reckon that he will be closing shop pretty soon.

But it's the first time I will order trousers that I will probably wear without a jacket, normally I will always order my trousers really high-waisted so I can wear them with suspenders. But not with anything else because they are so high waisted.
This time I have options, using a belt or going beltless and for side tabs, this question almost drives me insane.

I will list the cloth here so you can make up your own mind:
One of them is what to do with these summer trousers (100% linen - Natural Elements by Dugdale):
First is Oatmeal second is cream:

Most of the details are known: 5cm/2inch cuffs, double pleats and on the seam pockets (standard for all my trousers).
But should I go for a belt or for side tabs, I will be wearing this standalone or with a jacket.
In the heat of summer, I will probably only wear a nice dress shirt. So suspenders are out of the question. I hate to wear suspenders without something covering them.

I will also be making a suit with two trousers, tropicalair by Dugdale. Really nice summer cloth.
One trouser made really high waisted for suspenders (to wear as a suit), and one trouser for wearing with belt or side tabs (as stand alone trouser).
Again should I go for a belt or for side tabs with the second trouser?

Then I will also be ordering a navy blue blazer from the London Lounge Ultimate blazer 2.
This of course is easy, just semi-soft shoulders, normal shoulder, patch pockets and probably lined.

Last but not least, I want to make up a chino in a nice semi-thin cotton (just your classic flat front khakis, so without the pleats).
And a nice grey flannel trouser (made up as standard trousers). Both of which I do not know what cloth I will be using.
So if you have some suggestions let me know!

BONUS me and my tailor:

I go with single reverse pleats and belt loops on linen trousers. Flat front on the worsted trousers.

 

[Mr. Six]

Maybe you can help me with my order...

Saturday I will go to my tailor, I can't describe how happy I am! He went on hiatus for 3 years, not of his doing of course.
He is pushing it to 78 years already, and I almost thought we would lose him because his home town was hit hard by the virus. So it's a wonder he can even make the journey from Italy.

But that leaves me to my order, I will be ordering a lot. Not only because I haven't bought a lot these past years. But I reckon that he will be closing shop pretty soon.

But it's the first time I will order trousers that I will probably wear without a jacket, normally I will always order my trousers really high-waisted so I can wear them with suspenders. But not with anything else because they are so high waisted.
This time I have options, using a belt or going beltless and for side tabs, this question almost drives me insane.

I will list the cloth here so you can make up your own mind:
One of them is what to do with these summer trousers (100% linen - Natural Elements by Dugdale):
First is Oatmeal second is cream:

Most of the details are known: 5cm/2inch cuffs, double pleats and on the seam pockets (standard for all my trousers).
But should I go for a belt or for side tabs, I will be wearing this standalone or with a jacket.
In the heat of summer, I will probably only wear a nice dress shirt. So suspenders are out of the question. I hate to wear suspenders without something covering them.

I will also be making a suit with two trousers, tropicalair by Dugdale. Really nice summer cloth.
One trouser made really high waisted for suspenders (to wear as a suit), and one trouser for wearing with belt or side tabs (as stand alone trouser).
Again should I go for a belt or for side tabs with the second trouser?

Then I will also be ordering a navy blue blazer from the London Lounge Ultimate blazer 2.
This of course is easy, just semi-soft shoulders, normal shoulder, patch pockets and probably lined.

Last but not least, I want to make up a chino in a nice semi-thin cotton (just your classic flat front khakis, so without the pleats).
And a nice grey flannel trouser (made up as standard trousers). Both of which I do not know what cloth I will be using.
So if you have some suggestions let me know!

BONUS me and my tailor:

For the odd trousers, why not get two pair: one with a configuration with a jacket and one without?

 

[JHWilliams]

Maybe you can help me with my order...

Saturday I will go to my tailor, I can't describe how happy I am! He went on hiatus for 3 years, not of his doing of course.
He is pushing it to 78 years already, and I almost thought we would lose him because his home town was hit hard by the virus. So it's a wonder he can even make the journey from Italy.

But that leaves me to my order, I will be ordering a lot. Not only because I haven't bought a lot these past years. But I reckon that he will be closing shop pretty soon.

But it's the first time I will order trousers that I will probably wear without a jacket, normally I will always order my trousers really high-waisted so I can wear them with suspenders. But not with anything else because they are so high waisted.
This time I have options, using a belt or going beltless and for side tabs, this question almost drives me insane.

I will list the cloth here so you can make up your own mind:
One of them is what to do with these summer trousers (100% linen - Natural Elements by Dugdale):
First is Oatmeal second is cream:

Most of the details are known: 5cm/2inch cuffs, double pleats and on the seam pockets (standard for all my trousers).
But should I go for a belt or for side tabs, I will be wearing this standalone or with a jacket.
In the heat of summer, I will probably only wear a nice dress shirt. So suspenders are out of the question. I hate to wear suspenders without something covering them.

I will also be making a suit with two trousers, tropicalair by Dugdale. Really nice summer cloth.
One trouser made really high waisted for suspenders (to wear as a suit), and one trouser for wearing with belt or side tabs (as stand alone trouser).
Again should I go for a belt or for side tabs with the second trouser?

Then I will also be ordering a navy blue blazer from the London Lounge Ultimate blazer 2.
This of course is easy, just semi-soft shoulders, normal shoulder, patch pockets and probably lined.

Last but not least, I want to make up a chino in a nice semi-thin cotton (just your classic flat front khakis, so without the pleats).
And a nice grey flannel trouser (made up as standard trousers). Both of which I do not know what cloth I will be using.
So if you have some suggestions let me know!

BONUS me and my tailor:

high rise with braces. Otherwise you will look like a Boston Brahmin

 

[Sreezy36]

Which one would you choose between these two?

shell

Horn

side by side

 

[sensuki]

Shell for me. YMMV.

 

[dieworkwear]

Has anyone had anything made up from the new Maison Hellard linen book? Wondering how it compares to Solbiati's Art Du Lin.

I don't, but a friend of mine has a jacket in it. He said he likes it -- softer that W Bill, stiffer than Solbiati -- but is not sure if he would use the fabric for pants. For that reason, I went with W Bill because I'm getting a suit. But @Jmr928 is currently getting a suit in Hellard linen and can probably say more once he gets the garment.

Which one would you choose between these two?

I would do shell, but I think both would look nice.

 

[Markus W]

Definitely shell.

 

[JHWilliams]

Which one would you choose between these two?

shell
View attachment 1773333

Horn
View attachment 1773334

side by side

View attachment 1773335

This cloth is a lovely color!!! What bunch is it from

 

[Sreezy36]

This cloth is a lovely color!!! What bunch is it from

Holland and Sherry “Airesco”

Holland & Sherry

Airesco is a new collection of 3 and 4 ply fabrics woven from a plain weave construction and available in a variety of weights.

apparel.hollandandsherry.com