Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Sreezy36]

I wouldn't order woollen flannel trousers if your legs rub together. They'll wear out in the thigh / crotch faster than you expect.

not everyone has big ole Saquon Barkley tree trunk thighs like you!!! 😂😂😂😂

 

[dieworkwear]

I'm looking for a very soft, light shade of yellow linen, which is best described as butter yellow...heaviest weight possible...for a summer suiting. I've looked a bit through the W Bill and Spence Bryson books but their yellows are a bit too yellow and their creams a bit too cream or too beige. Anyone got any suggestions?

As usual, the online photos are not terribly helpful, so it's best to get a swatch. But I recently bought a length of this and think it fits your description. Not too yellow, but also not off-white.

7424 | Lisburn Linen From Dugdale Bros & Co | Cloth Merchants, High Qu

Buy 7424 from Dugdale Bros & Co | cloth merchants, high quality cloth to the finest tailors.

shop.dugdalebros.com

 

[PCK1]

As usual, the online photos are not terribly helpful, so it's best to get a swatch. But I recently bought a length of this and think it fits your description. Not too yellow, but also not off-white.

7424 | Lisburn Linen From Dugdale Bros & Co | Cloth Merchants, High Qu

Buy 7424 from Dugdale Bros & Co | cloth merchants, high quality cloth to the finest tailors.

shop.dugdalebros.com

Thank you, friend! Very helpful.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

As usual, the online photos are not terribly helpful, so it's best to get a swatch. But I recently bought a length of this and think it fits your description. Not too yellow, but also not off-white.

7424 | Lisburn Linen From Dugdale Bros & Co | Cloth Merchants, High Qu

Buy 7424 from Dugdale Bros & Co | cloth merchants, high quality cloth to the finest tailors.

shop.dugdalebros.com

This is somewhat timely. I have never worn a linen suit, but I am considering linen for a future purchase. In your experience, what should you look for in linen suiting? What are some of the different characteristics between mills?

I would think linen suiting has to be fairly heavy for suiting, but I could be wrong. Is linen suiting, even in heavier weights open weave enough to be airy? I'm curious if folks have experimented pairing different weights for trousers vs jacket.

 

[ctp120]

Ordered this a few days ago from Orazio Luciano via The Armoury.

 

[dieworkwear]

This is somewhat timely. I have never worn a linen suit, but I am considering linen for a future purchase. In your experience, what should you look for in linen suiting? What are some of the different characteristics between mills?

I would think linen suiting has to be fairly heavy for suiting, but I could be wrong. Is linen suiting, even in heavier weights open weave enough to be airy? I'm curious if folks have experimented pairing different weights for trousers vs jacket.

I think it depends on whether you're going for a suit or a sport coat. I would be comfortable with a soft, airy linen for a sport coat, but I'm not sure I would for a suit. W. Bill has some heavy, stiff linens that I think make for nice suits. Otherwise, Dugdale, Maison Hellard, and Solbiati have softer linens that I think make for nice jackets.

In terms of buying linen, I always go for heavier weights because they rumple more than wrinkle. Personally would not go below 11oz. W. Bill linen is not that airy, and I don't wear tailored clothing anyway once it gets up to 90 degrees or so.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I kind of feel that for linen suiting and trying to keep it looking "crisp" it might be best to not even attempt it and just lean hard into the frump.

 

[Bersabee]

How do you guys typically get your hand on swatches? Do you normally contact the manufacturer directly? I'm not in a position where I can get access to the fabric books.

 

[dieworkwear]

I kind of feel that for linen suiting and trying to keep it looking "crisp" it might be best to not even attempt it and just lean hard into the frump.

Personally don't like Kleenex wrinkles, but am OK with rumples.

How do you guys typically get your hand on swatches? Do you normally contact the manufacturer directly? I'm not in a position where I can get access to the fabric books.

Yes, contact the merchant or mill. Just note that not all deal with the public.

 

[Bersabee]

Yes, contact the merchant or mill. Just note that not all deal with the public.

Do you know which do/don't? For context, I'm currently looking at fabrics from Huddersfield, Drago, and Solbiati.

 

[dieworkwear]

Do you know which do/don't? For context, I'm currently looking at fabrics from Huddersfield, Drago, and Solbiati.

Broadly speaking, British companies will sell to the public and Italian companies don't. It's easier to just contact the companies you're interested in and see. There are two Huddersfield companies, including Huddersfield Fine Worsteds and Huddersfield Textiles. Both will sell to the public and they do swatches. I don't believe the other two do. However, sometimes you can find a merchant that stocks them, or an agent. In those cases, you may be able to purchase the fabric.

If you work with a tailor, they should have access to these fabrics. Many tailoring houses will supply swatches upon request.

 

[ericgereghty]

I kind of feel that for linen suiting and trying to keep it looking "crisp" it might be best to not even attempt it and just lean hard into the frump.

I agree with this. Keeping linen even passably crisp, especially if you're wearing your jacket all day, is an exercise in futility. Pants are a lost cause before 10a. Just need to embrace the look, or else steer clear altogether.
What are you thinking for a makeup?

 

[ctp120]

All good advice on linen. One other thing to note—and any reliable tailor will know this without you having to mention it—harder creases with narrow sleeves and/or trouser legs also cause sleeve and pant length to draw up and shorten. In other words, if you go for a perfect fit without wrinkles (not recommended, as per above), be ready for short pants/sleeves after wearing and moving for more than few minutes. The harder the linen creases and the narrower the sleeve or leg, the more exaggerated the shortening.

Also—forgot to mention that, if not recognizable from the swatch card, the cloth I posted above is from Loro Piana.

 

[Concordia]

One other things with good heavy Irish linen-- while it might not breathe like, say, Fresco, it absorbs the wearer's humidity remarkably well. So even a hellish day in NYC can be halfway-OK. Just be sure to have linen shirt, shorts, socks.

 

[bjhofkin]

How do you guys typically get your hand on swatches? Do you normally contact the manufacturer directly? I'm not in a position where I can get access to the fabric books.

Broadly speaking, British companies will sell to the public and Italian companies don't. It's easier to just contact the companies you're interested in and see. There are two Huddersfield companies, including Huddersfield Fine Worsteds and Huddersfield Textiles. Both will sell to the public and they do swatches. I don't believe the other two do. However, sometimes you can find a merchant that stocks them, or an agent. In those cases, you may be able to purchase the fabric.

If you work with a tailor, they should have access to these fabrics. Many tailoring houses will supply swatches upon request.

What Derek said.

An exception is Drapers (almost 100% VBC cloth), which is Italian but DOES send out swatches and sell directly – albeit online rather than with a phone call with some lovely Englishman/Englishwoman.