Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[bjhofkin]

I too am looking for a dark navy winter blazer. It’s hard to tell a lot of details from the online Taylor and Lodge book. What type of fabrics are you finding in the book itself? Any doeskin? Just heavier serge? Something else?

I've now seen/handled all of these:

B694 Archive Blazer Dark Navy — Taylor & Lodge

£79/m Prices exclude VAT ARCHIVE LUXURY BLAZER Composition: 100% Wool Weight: 420g/m or 15oz/m Selvedge: LUXURY ARCHIVE BLAZER 100% WOOL MADE IN HUDDERSFIELD, ENGLAND BY TAYLOR & LODGE THE ICONIC COLLECTION Ref: B694/61817/F4

www.taylorandlodge.com

The best heavy hopsack I've seen (I have not seen anything from the London Lounge, to be clear). NOT a summer-weight hopsack at all – rather a heavier, less-open-weave hopsack.

BL394 6-Ply High-Twist Navy — Taylor & Lodge

£115/m Prices exclude VAT WOOL 6-PLY IN NAVY Composition: 100% Wool 6-Ply Weight: 500g/m or 18oz/m Selvedge: ORIGINAL 6-PLY ALL WOOL MADE IN ENGLAND BY EDWIN WOODHOUSE Ref: BL394/64358/C3

www.taylorandlodge.com

Not a hopsack – but the 6-ply thread if anything gives it even more texture than a hopsack. Very open weave – but SUPER heavy. A completely unique and very interesting cloth that I think could make a terrific jacket.

A120 Archive Coat Dark Navy Twill — Taylor & Lodge

£110/m Prices exclude VAT FLANNEL COATING NAVY TWILL Composition: 100% wool Weight: 570g/m or 20oz/m Selvedge: ARCHIVE LUMB’S GOLDEN BALE LUXURY COATING MADE IN HUDDERSFIELD, ENGLAND BY TAYLOR & LODGE THE ICONIC COLLECTION Ref: A120/64556/E4

www.taylorandlodge.com

Heavy surge that is right at the edge of being too heavy for a jacket – but it's fantastic and I'm considering it. Photo really doesn't do it justice.

2080 Vintage Flannel Navy — Taylor & Lodge

£83/m Prices exclude VAT VINTAGE FLANNEL NAVY Composition: 100% wool Weight: 420g/m or 15oz/m Selvedge: 2080 ALL WOOL WORSTED VINTAGE FLANNEL MADE IN HUDDERSFIELD, ENGLAND BY ARTHUR HARRISON Ref: 2080/281811/C4

www.taylorandlodge.com

Probably the heaviest worsted flannel I've seen. Fantastic. Luxurious sheen but without being too much. Photo REALLY doesn't do it justice. I think worsted flannel is great for navy because you're not getting the cloudiness you get with gray anyway, so why not have the harder-wearing aspect of a worsted? I think this is going to be the choice for me.

 

[ladislav.jancik]

The best heavy hopsack I've seen (I have not seen anything from the London Lounge, to be clear). NOT a summer-weight hopsack at all – rather a heavier, less-open-weave hopsack.

It's very nice indeed, I would suggest you to consider also this one:

Navy Hopsack

Navy Hopsack WEIGHT: 450/480g or 16/17oz TYPE: The Connoisseur's Hopsack This authentic weight hopsack is woven in 100% merino wool and has a crisp, smooth hand-feel. Ideal for a classic unlined patch pocket blazer which would make a fantastic travel companion, easily rolled up and put in your...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

 

[Noirkw]

Hello friends,

Would greatly appreciate if anyone can help identify what mill/bunch this “vintage” 100% wool cream/ecru hopsack Uncommon Man is using:

Ecru Hopsack Two Ways

One cloth, two Jackets. With a strong eye on timeless quality, expertly tailored wardrobe staples have always been the focus for Uncommon Man. The all-new single-button Grant Jacket in vintage cream brings a slice of Napoli to the collection and promises to become a firm Spring/Summer favorite...

www.shopuncommonman.com

I am looking to replace my HS South Pacific Linen 2019114 sports coat - love the warm, creamy tone but don’t like the excessive wrinkling hence why I love this 100% wool hop sack Uncommon Man is using, thanks for all your help!

Not hopsack but you can consider the cream from dugdales NFW book

 

[dan'l]

I have been planning a pair of casual 5 pocket/carpenter/double knee pants for a while, and I am looking for some feedback on the cloth. My hope is to have something that looks like a vintage pair of Carhartt's after some wear. Any thoughts would be appreciated:

Indoor:
View attachment 1767126

Sun:
View attachment 1767128

Bonus Puppers:
View attachment 1767129

-DL

No experience with such cloth, but based purely on your pics, I prefer the color of #2 but the weave of #1. Number 2 looks a bit more open and I wonder how such a weave would look for clothes (seems more suitable for other applications, such as a bag).

 

[bjhofkin]

It's very nice indeed, I would suggest you to consider also this one:

Navy Hopsack

Navy Hopsack WEIGHT: 450/480g or 16/17oz TYPE: The Connoisseur's Hopsack This authentic weight hopsack is woven in 100% merino wool and has a crisp, smooth hand-feel. Ideal for a classic unlined patch pocket blazer which would make a fantastic travel companion, easily rolled up and put in your...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

I have samples of both and slightly prefer the T&L - a little softer, and a little larger weave.

 

[rjkabk]

I've now seen/handled all of these:

B694 Archive Blazer Dark Navy — Taylor & Lodge

£79/m Prices exclude VAT ARCHIVE LUXURY BLAZER Composition: 100% Wool Weight: 420g/m or 15oz/m Selvedge: LUXURY ARCHIVE BLAZER 100% WOOL MADE IN HUDDERSFIELD, ENGLAND BY TAYLOR & LODGE THE ICONIC COLLECTION Ref: B694/61817/F4

www.taylorandlodge.com

The best heavy hopsack I've seen (I have not seen anything from the London Lounge, to be clear). NOT a summer-weight hopsack at all – rather a heavier, less-open-weave hopsack.

BL394 6-Ply High-Twist Navy — Taylor & Lodge

£115/m Prices exclude VAT WOOL 6-PLY IN NAVY Composition: 100% Wool 6-Ply Weight: 500g/m or 18oz/m Selvedge: ORIGINAL 6-PLY ALL WOOL MADE IN ENGLAND BY EDWIN WOODHOUSE Ref: BL394/64358/C3

www.taylorandlodge.com

Not a hopsack – but the 6-ply thread if anything gives it even more texture than a hopsack. Very open weave – but SUPER heavy. A completely unique and very interesting cloth that I think could make a terrific jacket.

A120 Archive Coat Dark Navy Twill — Taylor & Lodge

£110/m Prices exclude VAT FLANNEL COATING NAVY TWILL Composition: 100% wool Weight: 570g/m or 20oz/m Selvedge: ARCHIVE LUMB’S GOLDEN BALE LUXURY COATING MADE IN HUDDERSFIELD, ENGLAND BY TAYLOR & LODGE THE ICONIC COLLECTION Ref: A120/64556/E4

www.taylorandlodge.com

Heavy surge that is right at the edge of being too heavy for a jacket – but it's fantastic and I'm considering it. Photo really doesn't do it justice.

2080 Vintage Flannel Navy — Taylor & Lodge

£83/m Prices exclude VAT VINTAGE FLANNEL NAVY Composition: 100% wool Weight: 420g/m or 15oz/m Selvedge: 2080 ALL WOOL WORSTED VINTAGE FLANNEL MADE IN HUDDERSFIELD, ENGLAND BY ARTHUR HARRISON Ref: 2080/281811/C4

www.taylorandlodge.com

Probably the heaviest worsted flannel I've seen. Fantastic. Luxurious sheen but without being too much. Photo REALLY doesn't do it justice. I think worsted flannel is great for navy because you're not getting the cloudiness you get with gray anyway, so why not have the harder-wearing aspect of a worsted? I think this is going to be the choice for me.

I have always preferred worsted flannel to regular flannel. I know that is a sin to a lot on this website, but I have always preferred more durable fabrics. Never really considered worsted flannel for an odd jacket like a blazer, but I could see it working. Definitely keep us up to date on what you go with and how it turns out!

 

[bjhofkin]

I have always preferred worsted flannel to regular flannel. I know that is a sin to a lot on this website, but I have always preferred more durable fabrics. Never really considered worsted flannel for an odd jacket like a blazer, but I could see it working. Definitely keep us up to date on what you go with and how it turns out!

Like I said, I really like worsted flannel in *navy* because you're not giving up the best aspects of flannel – i.e., the cloudiness/variegation in color. So with gray I do prefer woolen flannel even though it's less durable.

 

[JHWilliams]

Like I said, I really like worsted flannel in *navy* because you're not giving up the best aspects of flannel – i.e., the cloudiness/variegation in color. So with gray I do prefer woolen flannel even though it's less durable.

woolen flannel is extremely durable. I’ve never been able to understand those who clam it isn’t.
Do they eventually sag a tad in the trousers? Perhaps a bit rumpled in the coat?
These are the things I look forward to in a well used flannel suit. Comfort with rumples and a bit of patina

 

[BernieL]

Not hopsack but you can consider the cream from dugdales NFW book

thanks! I think MB Ponte Vecchio ivory/cream 100% wool hop sack is the one!

 

[bjhofkin]

woolen flannel is extremely durable. I’ve never been able to understand those who clam it isn’t.
Do they eventually sag a tad in the trousers? Perhaps a bit rumpled in the coat?
These are the things I look forward to in a well used flannel suit. Comfort with rumples and a bit of patina

Agreed – "durability" was imprecise on my part (provided it's of a good weight). I really meant the tendency to bag out, not hold a crease, etc.

 

[Marshak]

Like I said, I really like worsted flannel in *navy* because you're not giving up the best aspects of flannel – i.e., the cloudiness/variegation in color. So with gray I do prefer woolen flannel even though it's less durable.

I bought the midnight blue version of the Arthur Harrison's 2080 flannel (the same which is still produced under Taylor and Lodge label) to Harrison's Burley. 30 GPB/m. I feared it might be too blackish but it's not. It'll be funded into a suit for the next winter.

 

[Marshak]

woolen flannel is extremely durable. I’ve never been able to understand those who clam it isn’t.
Do they eventually sag a tad in the trousers? Perhaps a bit rumpled in the coat?
These are the things I look forward to in a well used flannel suit. Comfort with rumples and a bit of patina

Heavy flannels around 500 gr/m are durable. Light flannels aren't

 

[Sreezy36]

I bought the midnight blue version of the Arthur Harrison's 2080 flannel (the same which is still produced under Taylor and Lodge label) to Harrison's Burley. 30 GPB/m. I feared it might be too blackish but it's not. It'll be funded into a suit for the next winter.

shhhh!!! 🤫

 

[lordsuperb]

woolen flannel is extremely durable. I’ve never been able to understand those who clam it isn’t.
Do they eventually sag a tad in the trousers? Perhaps a bit rumpled in the coat?
These are the things I look forward to in a well used flannel suit. Comfort with rumples and a bit of patina

Agreed – "durability" was imprecise on my part (provided it's of a good weight). I really meant the tendency to bag out, not hold a crease, etc.

Heavy flannels around 500 gr/m are durable. Light flannels aren't

I wouldn't order woollen flannel trousers if your legs rub together. They'll wear out in the thigh / crotch faster than you expect.

 

[PCK1]

I'm looking for a very soft, light shade of yellow linen, which is best described as butter yellow...heaviest weight possible...for a summer suiting. I've looked a bit through the W Bill and Spence Bryson books but their yellows are a bit too yellow and their creams a bit too cream or too beige. Anyone got any suggestions?