Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Mark Seitelman]

Does anyone have much experience with very heavy suitings? I'm thinking about getting a cav twill suit, but the cav twill I'm looking at is 21oz.
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Does anyone have a suit made from 21oz fabric? If so, what do you have and do you find it a bit stiff and heavy? That's basically overcoating weight for a suit, right?

Yes, I would say that 21+ oz is topcoat/overcoat weight.

I have had suits and slacks in 21 oz and higher. They are suited for below freezing weather in the teens and twenties.

I have cavalry twill slacks in 21+ oz. They were a little stiff, but they have softened.

I have two suits in 21+ oz. I cannot provide the exact weights and mills. One is 19 years old and is a charcoal tweed topcoat material. It is soft and comfortable. The other is a navy twill (also topcoat or overcoat weight). That one is a bit heavy and is not a favorite suit, but I should give it another decade to break-in.

I would not go too high on the weight because the suit will be bulky and will add heft to your figure. But, if you are in a very cold climate, these weights are quite comfortable. You will not freeze on your walk to the subway or the bus.

When you wear warm suits in the NYC cold weather, everything else feels like summer weight.

 

[ZRH1]

I have this 21/22oz barathea in the making, really incredible, drapes like a dream. I am not into pictures, but can well vouch for it.

Fox Brothers Dark Navy Barathea

Fox Brothers Dark Navy Barathea CODE: FS684BL-D2076/23 WEIGHT: 600/630g or 21/22oz TYPE: Barathea Part of Fox Brothers' eveningwear collection, this classic Barathea is available in dark navy & black. This traditional textured cloth is woven in 100% pure new wool, and is perfect for formal...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

 

[dieworkwear]

I have one pair of odd trousers in the 21.1oz. and the 15.8oz. from Dugdale. There is not much better out there for trousers than the 21.1oz, but it looks like they are discontinuing the cloth. I have had mine for years, and they still hold a crease with no ironing and drape beautifully.

I have a tough time seeing it as a jacket however. The surface is almost too smooth and clean if that makes any sense, despite the weave. Some of that is due to the lack of mottling in the color (light fawn) and the surface is a bit shiny as well which I don't like for a jacket. I love them as trousers though, they are my favorite.

The 15.8oz. is just okay. It's not bad, it's not great either just okay. The surface has more texture, but also feels cheaper, not as silky as the 21.1oz.

-DL

This is made from 21oz W. Bill cav twill and I thought it looks pretty good. Do you feel the cloth doesn't work for the suit?

 

[ericgereghty]

I have this 21/22oz barathea in the making, really incredible, drapes like a dream. I am not into pictures, but can well vouch for it.

Fox Brothers Dark Navy Barathea

Fox Brothers Dark Navy Barathea CODE: FS684BL-D2076/23 WEIGHT: 600/630g or 21/22oz TYPE: Barathea Part of Fox Brothers' eveningwear collection, this classic Barathea is available in dark navy & black. This traditional textured cloth is woven in 100% pure new wool, and is perfect for formal...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

Are you going suit in this? Or sport coat?
@dieworkwear i don’t dig the color, but beyond that I can’t see why it wouldn’t work.

 

[ZRH1]

Are you going suit in this? Or sport coat?
@dieworkwear i don’t dig the color, but beyond that I can’t see why it wouldn’t work.

suit, it may need a tad more ironing that other heavyweight cloths, but it is by no means soft. As a sidenote, I don't like the twill pattern too much, so this being more hopsack like is to my visual preference.

 

[winghus]

This is made from 21oz W. Bill cav twill and I thought it looks pretty good. Do you feel the cloth doesn't work for the suit?


View attachment 1754864 View attachment 1754865 View attachment 1754866

Looks like it would stop a bullet.

 

[The Chai]

Does anyone have anything made in Ardalanish tweed? If so may I see some pics? And can you comment on the cloth in general? Trying to move away from bespeaking DJs and thinking of getting a winter SC made as I do not yet have a SC in "real" tweed

 

[JHWilliams]

suit, it may need a tad more ironing that other heavyweight cloths, but it is by no means soft. As a sidenote, I don't like the twill pattern too much, so this being more hopsack like is to my visual preference.

I have always wanted a barathea three piece suit (but was always afraid to pull the trigger. I was once told barathea is strictly for formal wear). I hope I am wrong !

 

[DavidLane]

This is made from 21oz W. Bill cav twill and I thought it looks pretty good. Do you feel the cloth doesn't work for the suit?


View attachment 1754864 View attachment 1754865 View attachment 1754866

Derek, that color looks great. You can see the bit of shininess on the cloth in the last picture, but because there is a bit of mottling to the surface and its quite a bit darker I think it works as a jacket. I would not be as worried about the weight, I think it would be fine up to 60-65 degrees.

-DL

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Does anyone have anything made in Ardalanish tweed? If so may I see some pics? And can you comment on the cloth in general? Trying to move away from bespeaking DJs and thinking of getting a winter SC made as I do not yet have a SC in "real" tweed

I am almost certain my dear @The Chai, that even if you learn everything that it is to know about the Ardalanish of whatever tweed, the fabric will end up as an upholstery or something,.., and you'll get your next mohair-mix fabric(s) for forthcoming beloved DJ(s)!!!

"Trying to move away" does not necessarily mean that you are there my friend! After all, as the older-from-us-in-this-Forum know, have you completed your 11 Bespoke DJs commissions?


Best,

Dimitris

 

[Mark Seitelman]

On a different note, Dieworkwear (Derek), when are you going to offer another cloth? I have both the linen/silk and the fresco houndstooth. Both are excellent.

 

[Mark Seitelman]

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I like this suit. I have a similar one in navy.

It works as a suit, but it is more on a less formal, less traditional suit.

 

[dieworkwear]

On a different note, Dieworkwear (Derek), when are you going to offer another cloth? I have both the linen/silk and the fresco houndstooth. Both are excellent.

I'm glad to hear you enjoy those cloths! I've been meaning to organize more runs, but haven't had the time. I'm hoping to do some tweeds at some point, however.

 

[Sreezy36]

Which one is more appropriate for a double breasted shawl dinner jacket lapel facing? Grosgrain or Satin

 

[ericgereghty]

I'm glad to hear you enjoy those cloths! I've been meaning to organize more runs, but haven't had the time. I'm hoping to do some tweeds at some point, however.

Would love to see more runs. Kicking myself at not taking the plunge on the Fresco run