Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Bersabee]

Trying to figure out what suit fabrics would be more appropriate for Toronto weather. I'm not too familiar with fabrics - that being said I am trying to split them up by season (Summer/All-Season & Winter). Summers get very warm (around 20-30 Celsius) while winters get somewhat chilly (-20Cish on colder days).

Here is what I am looking at:
- Summer: VBC 2-ply (230g, 8 Oz) or Dugdale Fine Worsted (280-310g / 8-9oz)
I would think that these above could be also used for the warmer fall/spring days.
- Winter: Drago Super 130s Rugby Flannel (290-300g/10oz) or VBC Flannel (340g/11 oz)

I am mostly worried about the summers as I sweat a lot. In the winter, I usually wear long johns under my trousers so do not need anything crazy thick.

Anything in specific I should look at? Not really trying to go too casual on the fabric.

 

[Noirkw]

Grabbed VBC flannels for my upcoming trip to NYC

Dont get to wear much flannel in Asia, super excited, I love flannels!

From the 340g woollen flannel book

 

[mactire]

Anyone have any recommendations for green velvet for a dinner jacket? Thinking a dark bottle green; my brother in law’s wedding is likely to be fall of 2023 and they were thinking jewel tones and black tie so I figure I could get a step ahead and get the unfunded liability first

Range of velvets on sale here:

Green Cotton Velvet

Weight: 8oz / 225g Composition: 100% Cotton Width: 110cm

www.yorkshirefabric.com

 

[Sreezy36]

Trying to figure out what suit fabrics would be more appropriate for Toronto weather. I'm not too familiar with fabrics - that being said I am trying to split them up by season (Summer/All-Season & Winter). Summers get very warm (around 20-30 Celsius) while winters get somewhat chilly (-20Cish on colder days).

Here is what I am looking at:
- Summer: VBC 2-ply (230g, 8 Oz) or Dugdale Fine Worsted (280-310g / 8-9oz)
I would think that these above could be also used for the warmer fall/spring days.
- Winter: Drago Super 130s Rugby Flannel (290-300g/10oz) or VBC Flannel (340g/11 oz)

I am mostly worried about the summers as I sweat a lot. In the winter, I usually wear long johns under my trousers so do not need anything crazy thick.

Anything in specific I should look at? Not really trying to go too casual on the fabric.

Although I am not as experienced as others in this thread in regards to cloth, I am informed enough to recommend an approach in regards to the “bulk” of a suit wardrobe for someone living in your type climate. Assuming that you are going the bespoke route, I would totally take advantage of and highly recommend (heavy) “good” English cloth. For 8 months out of the year in Toronto 370-410g worsteds should be able to be worn easily, with or without an long John’s and/or an overcoat. In addition, they tend to tailor extremely well and have excellent longevity/durability. In all, I would focus on this weight range of worsteds for the foundation of the suit wardrobe. I’ll defer to others in regards to advice on warm weather cloth recommendations for your climate.

Some 370-410g cloth examples are:
1. H lesser 13oz
2. Smith woolens botany
3. Harrison’s Oyster
4. Dugdale English and town classics
5. Huddersfield fine worsted Classic 2
6. Holland and Sherry classic worsteds
7. Bateman Ogden Yorkdale

 

[Simon A]

Trying to figure out what suit fabrics would be more appropriate for Toronto weather. I'm not too familiar with fabrics - that being said I am trying to split them up by season (Summer/All-Season & Winter). Summers get very warm (around 20-30 Celsius) while winters get somewhat chilly (-20Cish on colder days).

My opinion is, if opting for flannel, wear it in winter and go for heavyweight (450-500g); it has a much greater depth of colour, holds a crease better, and is more durable in general than the 300g flannels. You won't need the long johns in winter, just go with over-the-calf socks. Gorina of Spain make excellent flannels for a very fair price. I wear them at -20C with an overcoat and am perfectly fine, and they are fine in the office as well.

For summer, you will see a lot of opinions in the archives here for British open-weave worsteds of the Fresco type (Fresco/Finmeresco/Tropicalair/Brisa). I like them a lot as they are well suited to hot/humid conditions, even when quite heavy, but they are not to everybody's taste.

 

[coolpapa]

Any suggestions for an ulster coat? I'd like something traditional, camel, or camel colored, not to heavy, not too light. TIA!

 

[JHWilliams]

Trying to figure out what suit fabrics would be more appropriate for Toronto weather. I'm not too familiar with fabrics - that being said I am trying to split them up by season (Summer/All-Season & Winter). Summers get very warm (around 20-30 Celsius) while winters get somewhat chilly (-20Cish on colder days).

Here is what I am looking at:
- Summer: VBC 2-ply (230g, 8 Oz) or Dugdale Fine Worsted (280-310g / 8-9oz)
I would think that these above could be also used for the warmer fall/spring days.
- Winter: Drago Super 130s Rugby Flannel (290-300g/10oz) or VBC Flannel (340g/11 oz)

I am mostly worried about the summers as I sweat a lot. In the winter, I usually wear long johns under my trousers so do not need anything crazy thick.

Anything in specific I should look at? Not really trying to go too casual on the fabric.

I was told to avoid the 2 py VBC and go with the 4 ply with buggy lining.

 

[Bersabee]

I was told to avoid the 2 py VBC and go with the 4 ply with buggy lining.

By who? Do you know the rationale? I'm not too familiar with fabric but I would assume 4-ply is more durable (but heavier).?

 

[Marshak]

By who? Do you know the rationale? I'm not too familiar with fabric but I would assume 4-ply is more durable (but heavier).?

Better drape and everything of course. More ply is better.

 

[JHWilliams]

By who? Do you know the rationale? I'm not too familiar with fabric but I would assume 4-ply is more durable (but heavier).?

By my tailor. The 2 ply won’t drape as well and it’s extremely “see through”

 

[sebastian mcfox]

The Ascot 6-ply is also great - drapes even better than 4-ply and isn’t noticeably heavier

 

[Bersabee]

By my tailor. The 2 ply won’t drape as well and it’s extremely “see through”

I see - thank you. I assume the 4ply is more similar to fresco?

 

[JHWilliams]

I see - thank you. I assume the 4ply is more similar to fresco?

Yes, but it has a much smoother handle. I think six ply would be better for early spring and autumn ?

 

[JHWilliams]

I see - thank you. I assume the 4ply is more similar to fresco?

are you working with a bespoke tailor?

 

[Bersabee]

are you working with a bespoke tailor?

No. I was looking to potentially get a suit copied by Luxire for beater suits.

Planning to get a bespoke suit in the spring/summer tho.