Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[mack11211]

I absolutely agree that a worsted tweed like Worsted Alsport is best for trousers or a suit, especially if your trousers show wear in the crotch or the seat, but I don't believe Worsted Alsport contains any donegals.

My error, I guess I was thinking of the older Alsport book

 

[FlyingHorker]

Glad to hear that. Which color are you planning to order? I still get a lot of wear out of the Casentino coat I had made up.

Frankly, not sure yet. This is just musing for the future for now. I'm thinking 2-3 years out.

I may replace a rust brown tweed polo coat I have that's can only be worn with a shirt.

I've thought about the following shades, open to other input.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Dear @FlyingHorker,

Well, it is the owner of the Greek shop that is called Mr. Takis Stournaras and not the shop itself; as I have been written before, his company has the sole representation of Ermenegildo Zegna, Loro Piana, Ariston Napoli, and Piacenza Cashmere fabrics for Greece. A simple google search will show his social media and relevant contact details.

I am glad that you've "paved the ground" for T.A.C.S. casentino wool, should you proceed, we need to follow the process in the Ongoing Bespoke Projects Thread.

Best,

Dimitris

Ahhh, thank you for the correction Dimitris.

Yep, Mr. Stournaras had confirmed that he has cloth from all of the listed companies through social media when I contacted him.

The casentino project is likely 2-3 years out, and just an idea for now. I will definitely update everyone in the Bespoke thread if it comes to fruition.

 

[konstantis]

Konstanti, good morning.

Should you wish to contemplate something lighter than Molloy & Sons that can fit the bill, just a few pages back, @Despos has posted the Ariston Napoli's take on donegal wool tweed: it is a 100%wool at 380grams, very nice colors, texture and hand. Although it is a jacketing bunch, I did ask my tailor and said it can be used as a suit but an extra caution is needed for the trousers' treatment.

Best,

Dimitris

Thank you Dimitris.

 

[Slickman]

Anyone try loro piana's uniti single ply fresco for a suit? Heard good things...

 

[ZRH1]

Sample swatches just came in from standeven

1. Light brown Escorial Escudo 340g 100% Escorial
View attachment 1700810
Not Bad. Very soft and luxurious hand. Decent body for a medium weight. Moderate bounce back. Wouldn’t be my first choice for a jacket because of the light color. Nonetheless, solid fabric.

2-4: light, mid, dark(More of an olive tone) Glenesk 95/5 lambswool/cashmere
310-340g
View attachment 1700812 View attachment 1700813 View attachment 1700814
very Soft and luxurious feel. Beautiful color in person. Decent body for the weight. Below average bounce back. Definitely more on the wrinkle prone side. In comparison, the Escorial seems slightly more wrinkle resistant. I would probably not want to get a jacket made in this type of fabric. Seems delicate and somewhat prone to wrinkling. I prefer sport jacketing with a little more body and wrinkle resistance. I love the soft feel though.

I have two in Glenesk, marveolous and not very wrinkle prone, they get out easily

 

[Despos]

Konstanti, good morning.

Should you wish to contemplate something lighter than Molloy & Sons that can fit the bill, just a few pages back, @Despos has posted the Ariston Napoli's take on donegal wool tweed: it is a 100%wool at 380grams, very nice colors, texture and hand. Although it is a jacketing bunch, I did ask my tailor and said it can be used as a suit but an extra caution is needed for the trousers' treatment.

Best,

Dimitris

making a trouser is risky, I wouldn’t.
look for a “worsted“ tweed. Not sure that’s a real thing. Holland & Sherry had some at one time. has The same appearance but more structure and a sturdier weave. It’s all about tensile strength in the yarns

 

[Bespoke DJP]

I've thought about the following shades, open to other input.

View attachment 1701793
View attachment 1701794
View attachment 1701795

I would save the camel shade of brown exclusively for a future overcoat of camelhair, not casentino wool.

Best,

Dimitris

 

[FlyingHorker]

I would save the camel shade of brown exclusively for a future overcoat of camelhair, not casentino wool.

Best,

Dimitris

Yeah something about it looks off in that shade, but I can't put it in words.

Casentino definitely seems to look best in particular shades.

 

[brax]

Frankly, not sure yet. This is just musing for the future for now. I'm thinking 2-3 years out.

I may replace a rust brown tweed polo coat I have that's can only be worn with a shirt.

I've thought about the following shades, open to other input.

View attachment 1701793
View attachment 1701794
View attachment 1701795

A Casentino is unique. I would only go for the orange, lime-green, or purple. The others are too sedate.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

I agree!

Casentino is a very particular fabric which finds its best expression in bold colors.

Shibumi's Benedikt has commissioned the following two, the second being with a detachable collar fur:

Best,

Dimitris

 

[FlyingHorker]

A Casentino is unique. I would only go for the orange, lime-green, or purple. The others are too sedate.

Ehhhh, those shades are too eye-searing for me.

I agree!

Casentino is a very particular fabric which finds its best expression in bold colors.

Shibumi's Benedikt has commissioned the following two, the second being with a detachable collar fur:

View attachment 1702024

View attachment 1702028

Best,

Dimitris

Those are both nice coats and I'd definitely wear them, but my last coat is already quite bold.

Strong argument though, enough to give me pause. They're more sedate looking than other casentino coats I've seen.

 

[Despos]

Green and orange are the most classic colors for that garment. There’s one city in Italy that is renown for the cosentino coat. A friend worked in that city but I can’t recall the name. Maybe someone knows. Same city Daniel Day Lewis was in when he was learning to make shoes.

 

[Alocin]

Green and orange are the most classic colors for that garment. There’s one city in Italy that is renown for the cosentino coat. A friend worked in that city but I can’t recall the name. Maybe someone knows. Same city Daniel Day Lewis was in when he was learning to make shoes.

If I remember correctly he was working with Bemer in Florence. Which is likely the same reason Benedikt has multiple casentino coats.

 

[paborden]

Here's one, trying to find the right shade of dusty pink linen, which is a challenge. Holland and Sherry South Pacific Linens are 6.5oz so that won't work, and the Dugdale version isn't faded enough.

Ie something like this but not in linen -

Not highly saturated like this -

Thoughts?