Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[ctp120]

Thanks.

#1 is definitely not a herringbone. Doesn't look like any donegal I've ever seen either, especially in texture, though I've never heard of a barley-corn donegal, so perhaps I'm only familiar with more common versions of donegals.

#2 is obviously a check with a windowpane over it, but I wonder if this version has a particular name. I'm tempted to call it a gun club, but not sure if the check itself needs to be multicolored to qualify.

 

[dieworkwear]

Thought I'd share this: I've been corresponding with someone who reads my blog. I'm not sure of his background, but I believe he's a tailor. He certainly knows a lot about the trade.

Anyway, we were talking about various shirting issues yesterday and he confirmed that sometimes - depending on who you get your shirting from and where you take it to be made up - you may want to preshrink your fabrics. His instructions:

Steps are,
1: take the cut(not the selvage) ends and sew them up(not together, just sew the raw edge on itself) overlock(merrow) or hand overcast will do, this is to prevent the cloth from fraying in the wash.
2: throw it in the washer, run it as you would normally, cold water etc.
3: tumble dry, high temp is fine, dryer sheet and all.
4: re-true the grain, press it and cut.

Most producers won't bother with this process, but the resulting shirt elevates the lowly PB cloth into something really great. I had problems with the cloth until I started running the goods through a wash cycle.

On high end fabrics, this process is done in finishing. Aluomo as an example only uses water and detergent when finishing their cloth. Effectively preshrinking the goods on the roll(figurative not literal).

Thought it that might be helpful given people's earlier discussions on this topic.

 

[mactire]

Thanks.

#1 is definitely not a herringbone. Doesn't look like any donegal I've ever seen either, especially in texture, though I've never heard of a barley-corn donegal, so perhaps I'm only familiar with more common versions of donegals.

#2 is obviously a check with a windowpane over it, but I wonder if this version has a particular name. I'm tempted to call it a gun club, but not sure if the check itself needs to be multicolored to qualify.

Grand so, barleycorn Donegals aren't seen often these days but they do exist, the LL had one made by Molloy & Sons in Donegal. There are also pinstripes, houndstooths [houndsteeth?] checks and windowpanes made at various points.

Can't help you with the name of the second one I too thought it had to be a small multicoloured check to be a gun club, but names differ greatly from place to place anyway.

 

[Straits FC]

Has anyone had a suit made using the Harrisons Firefly range?Would really appreciate some pictures of it made up.

 

[RogerC]



Grand so, barleycorn Donegals aren't seen often these days but they do exist, the LL had one made by Molloy & Sons in Donegal.  There are also pinstripes, houndstooths [houndsteeth?] checks and windowpanes made at various points.

Can't help you with the name of the second one I too thought it had to be a small multicoloured check to be a gun club, but names differ greatly from place to place anyway.

It actually looks more like a Russian twill than a barleycorn (although this is hard to identify without a close-up). They are not much different: Russian twill is the middle between barleycorn and herringbone.

 

[A Y]



What are your impressions of the fabric Choy?

I also have a few Brisa suits: the light grey, dark grey, navy PoW, and a navy solid in the works. It is a tough fabric that resists creases well, breathes well, and feels lighter than its weight. I wouldn't call it spongey, except maybe in comparison to a very dry cloth. It is still relatively crisp feeling, like a dry worsted.

Also, I saw the Golden Bale book this morning and now I want some! Frack. The dark grey birdseye (31167, I think) looks nice. Has anyone had that made up and if so, what kind of suit?

 

[mattcritchlow]

I'm definitely in for this.

is there still interest in this? This being a Slewfoot Brown Fresco re-run. I would be interested in a jacket length. not sure where things left off.

 

[tim_horton]



Also, I saw the Golden Bale book this morning and now I want some! Frack. The dark grey birdseye (31167, I think) looks nice. Has anyone had that made up and if so, what kind of suit?

I like that one as well. I was trying to decide between that and the navy birdseye for a DB suit. (Though I think the number may be 31178.)

 

[Slewfoot]

Are there photos of this Golden Bale book online anywhere?

 

[mactire]

Are there photos of this Golden Bale book online anywhere?

http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/collections.html?cs=hl The pictures aren't great though, best to ring em up and hassle them for swatches.

 

[Slewfoot]

Thanks! I forgot that Harrison's was dealing with them now.

 

[tchoy]



Also, I saw the Golden Bale book this morning and now I want some! Frack. The dark grey birdseye (31167, I think) looks nice. Has anyone had that made up and if so, what kind of suit?

I have the grey birdseye Golden Bale pre Harrison made up quite a few years ago. It remains one of my favourite suit, it was one of the nicest fabric that I've come across. I haven't see the new Golden Bale book but so I can't comment on the fabric post Harrisons taken over. My was a 3 button single breasted suit.

 

[A Y]



I have the grey birdseye Golden Bale pre Harrison made up quite a few years ago. It remains one of my favourite suit, it was one of the nicest fabric that I've come across. I haven't see the new Golden Bale book but so I can't comment on the fabric post Harrisons taken over. My was a 3 button single breasted suit.

Thank you. I'm trying to figure out if the cloth will be OK as a DB. An SB, probably with notch lapels, is the default choice.

 

[tchoy]



Thank you. I'm trying to figure out if the cloth will be OK as a DB. An SB, probably with notch lapels, is the default choice.

It would look great in a DB, from a distance it's look like solid grey. I thinks birdseye are underrated.

 

[dopey]



. . .

Also, I saw the Golden Bale book this morning and now I want some! Frack. The dark grey birdseye (31167, I think) looks nice. Has anyone had that made up and if so, what kind of suit?

One of my first good English-style suits was a birdseye DB (Polo, in 1988). It lasted a long time as one of my favorites but is long since gone. Eventually I will have it remade. If you make yours DB, you will make me happy.