Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[brax]

@JHWilliams
Frescos are polarizing with my clientele. Some like and enjoy wearing them and others strongly dislike The look and feel of it.
I would not show them to a client if they want a dressy suit. I don’t see fresco, finmeresco or ascot used for formal uses. it’s my opinion.
I get a lot of repeat orders for Premier Cru suits so I have to say it’s a very individual choice.
My tailor shops were in Dallas and Chicago. But clientele is from every area in the USA.

As a Despos client, I am biased (or at least influenced) but I own two frescos and a premier cru so I have first-hand knowledge.

I chose premier cru for my Despos navy wedding suit and do not regret the choice for a second. It is the suit that I reach for when I will be attending a fancy dinner and don’t want to draw attention with my 1BPL, for example. We considered other suitings but never frescos even though I was well aware of that suiting.

On the other hand, my two frescos were made by my Neapolitan tailor with patch pockets as they are more casual business suits (even though they are solid navy and grey) that I’ll wear to the office but not to court. If I made them with flapped pockets I would wear them to court but, to me (and my Neapolitan tailor) frescos called for a casual configuration. I went with Rangoon for my court suits.

If I flipped the two fabrics, I would not be happy with the choice. A fresco wedding suit would not feel right (too rustic and textured) and a premier cru casual suit would not feel right either.

 

[krudsma]

I'm looking for a brown tweed but with a cooler tone - a lot of the stuff I'm seeing skews more red/yellow.

Something maybe in this neighborhood? Color is right but I'd prefer something with a little more surface interest. Ideally in the 15 - 17 oz. range.

I ended up going with this one: https://foxflannel.com/products/check?_pos=68&_sid=4438d39c7&_ss=r
Curious to see how this turns out - half of the photos on the website look grey, half look brown. Already have a grey Fox tweed so I'm hoping it winds up looking more like the swatch photo when made up.

 

[hitsuji]

Has anyone had a feel of the New Standeven Heritage Twist bunch? They're woven by Kynoch in Scotland.. 20oz stuff looks like some of the old Reid and Taylor twists.

The patterns look good for an odd jacket.. wondering about the hand feel though

 

[Concordia]

Some of this is clarifying language. Does 'formal' mean a state dinner at the White House, or appropriate for the courtroom, office, or church on a summer afternoon? Fresco/Finmeresco will cover the former if the correct cut and color, but they will be much happier if they can be held to the latter roles.

 

[L.deJong]

Has anyone had a feel of the New Standeven Heritage Twist bunch? They're woven by Kynoch in Scotland.. 20oz stuff looks like some of the old Reid and Taylor twists.

The patterns look good for an odd jacket.. wondering about the hand feel though

I have a suit made with it, but out of the old bunch. It's fantastic! My tailor was grinning like a little boy he clearly liked it very much.
Pic or it didn't happen.

 

[DavidLane]

first choice is 2-ply light weight Ascot. Like the colors more.

Have only used Fox flannel, once for a suit and another time for trousers. Clients supplied the cloth.
Haven't seen fox air. Don't know what it is.

Chris,

The Foxair is a throwback scratchy fresco like the old 13oz. Minnis with a finish like sandpaper. Which for me is not a drawback, but an advantage.

-David

 

[camez_]

Has anyone had a feel of the New Standeven Heritage Twist bunch? They're woven by Kynoch in Scotland.. 20oz stuff looks like some of the old Reid and Taylor twists.

The patterns look good for an odd jacket.. wondering about the hand feel though

I'll tell you soon, just waiting to get the new bunch delivered

 

[Despos]

Chris,

The Foxair is a throwback scratchy fresco like the old 13oz. Minnis with a finish like sandpaper. Which for me is not a drawback, but an advantage.

-David

Illustrates my point. Some characteristics of a cloth are a feature that some are drawn to and appreciate while the same characteristics are a turn off to others.
Over simplification:
Everyone likes something and no one likes everything;
choose what you like

 

[CLH03]

I'll tell you soon, just waiting to get the new bunch delivered

Not cheap!

 

[jonathanS]

Chris,

The Foxair is a throwback scratchy fresco like the old 13oz. Minnis with a finish like sandpaper. Which for me is not a drawback, but an advantage.

-David

I’m in total agreement with you on this. I like it. But, to Despos’s point, it isn’t for everyone.

If you’re okay with the texture I see no reason it can’t be a formal non-tuxedo suit (which is to say, depending upon color, used for anything up to a black tie event).

 

[hitsuji]

I'll tell you soon, just waiting to get the new bunch delivered

I’d probably get the 14oz just for how practical it is but the 20oz is calling for me.



Is anyone able to ID this standeven bunch? I got a few metres of it from ebay.

Selvedge says “100% Exclusive superfine wool *** London Shrunk *** Made in England by Standeven ***"

Not been able to find anything about it apart from the fact it might be an old Escorial bunch? its about 12/13oz

 

[camez_]

Probably an older British classic cloth, nothing to rave about imo

Won't be an Escorial since that is an expensive product that will always be on display on the selvedge

 

[CLH03]

Has anyone had a feel of the New Standeven Heritage Twist bunch? They're woven by Kynoch in Scotland.. 20oz stuff looks like some of the old Reid and Taylor twists.

The patterns look good for an odd jacket.. wondering about the hand feel though

The 14 oz is plenty heavy. Wearing mine tonight to a wedding, such a pleasure to wear

 

[jonathanS]

Probably an older British classic cloth, nothing to rave about imo

Won't be an Escorial since that is an expensive product that will always be on display on the selvedge

Nothing special, yeah, it’s a decent fabric. London shrunk is a treatment to the fabric.

The London shrunk finish makes the fabric permanent, even during tailoring and steam pressing. It also gives the fabric a sleek quality and makes it more durable, wrinkle-resistant, and easy to wear.

 

[tim_horton]

This might be a candidate for my non-Solero Solero (a.k.a. a heavy tan wool suit.) Dugdale Invincible serge at 14 oz. I even prefer the twill pattern to the classic Solaro herringbone. It would be nice if it was a tad darker, like Solaro. I'll see when the swatch arrives.