Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[reidd]

These are the two I'm thinking of right now: Fox and Huddersfield. There is a price difference, of course, but is Fox worth paying a premium?

Fox cloth has an X factor that is hard to describe.. It's that last 10% in attention to detail and overall quality that makes the final garment that much better. Fox cloth performs like the vintage stuff that people rave about before the amalgamation of all the old mills into the modern multi-national groups. They aren't the only one of course and I put Standeven on that level as well as a couple others.. If you are spending all that money to have something made bespoke, I think it's more than worth is to have the best possible materials.

 

[ericgereghty]

Anybody with thoughts on where one might find a linen similar to the below? Perhaps not the exact fabric, as it's likely a good deal lighter than I would prefer a linen suit to be, based on their usual classifications of light/mid/heavyweight fabric.

This would have been an instakop if it came in Armoury's Model 3, but, alas...

 

[FlowableFill]

What do you guys think about mint green linen shirting as an alternative to light blue? In my head it would pair well with jackets in blues, greens and greys. Not so much with browns though.

 

[DorianGreen]

What do you guys think about mint green linen shirting as an alternative to light blue? In my head it would pair well with jackets in blues, greens and greys. Not so much with browns though.
View attachment 1878203
View attachment 1878204

I really like that colour, but would preferably pair it with brown shades, besides greys and blues, not with greens instead.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Anybody with thoughts on where one might find a linen similar to the below? Perhaps not the exact fabric, as it's likely a good deal lighter than I would prefer a linen suit to be, based on their usual classifications of light/mid/heavyweight fabric.

This would have been an instakop if it came in Armoury's Model 3, but, alas...

View attachment 1878168

As far as pure linens go. Solbiati has a nice light gray glencheck in the high 200 grams if I recall that might be your best bet. Maison Hellard has one with a light blue overcheck in the low 3’s if I recall. I don’t think Mersolaire has a light gray but has some sort of greige PoW.

 

[camez_]

Anybody with thoughts on where one might find a linen similar to the below? Perhaps not the exact fabric, as it's likely a good deal lighter than I would prefer a linen suit to be, based on their usual classifications of light/mid/heavyweight fabric.

This would have been an instakop if it came in Armoury's Model 3, but, alas...

View attachment 1878168

solbiati should have something like that

 

[camez_]

What do you guys think about mint green linen shirting as an alternative to light blue? In my head it would pair well with jackets in blues, greens and greys. Not so much with browns though.
View attachment 1878203
View attachment 1878204

i wouldn't combine that with a jacket but wear it solo with a one piece collar

 

[mack11211]

Anybody with thoughts on where one might find a linen similar to the below? Perhaps not the exact fabric, as it's likely a good deal lighter than I would prefer a linen suit to be, based on their usual classifications of light/mid/heavyweight fabric.

This would have been an instakop if it came in Armoury's Model 3, but, alas...

The suit fabric

looks a lot like Lismore 07 Col 9 from Spence Bryson

 

[camez_]

just got some great vintage scottish lambswool / cashmere jacketing fixed:
there are some lengths left over - if you're interested just dm me

 

[JHWilliams]

The suit fabric


View attachment 1878917 View attachment 1878918
looks a lot like Lismore 07 Col 9 from Spence Bryson

Kolecho did a Rangoon run in a very similar pattern. Excellent drape, cool wearing, without the wrinkles.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Kolecho did a Rangoon run in a very similar pattern. Excellent drape, cool wearing, without the wrinkles.

Wrinkles on linen are a feature, not a bug.

 

[JHWilliams]

Wrinkles on linen are a feature, not a bug.

That is open to debate. You either love the rumpled look of linen or you hate it. I’m not a fan of wrinkles. I can sleep in my clothing if I want to achieve that look.

 

[ezev]

Does anybody have much experience with Dugdale Town & Classics? Specifically was looking to have Dugdale 9469 or 9410 made into a suit that I can break into separates.

9469 | Search From Dugdale Bros & Co | Cloth Merchants, High Quality C

Buy 9469 from Dugdale Bros & Co | cloth merchants, high quality cloth to the finest tailors.

shop.dugdalebros.com

9410 | English & Town Classics From Dugdale Bros & Co | Cloth Merchant

Buy 9410 from Dugdale Bros & Co | cloth merchants, high quality cloth to the finest tailors.

shop.dugdalebros.com

 

[JHWilliams]

Does anybody have much experience with Dugdale Town & Classics? Specifically was looking to have Dugdale 9469 or 9410 made into a suit that I can break into separates.

9469 | Search From Dugdale Bros & Co | Cloth Merchants, High Quality C

Buy 9469 from Dugdale Bros & Co | cloth merchants, high quality cloth to the finest tailors.

shop.dugdalebros.com

9410 | English & Town Classics From Dugdale Bros & Co | Cloth Merchant

Buy 9410 from Dugdale Bros & Co | cloth merchants, high quality cloth to the finest tailors.

shop.dugdalebros.com

I have two suits from the bunch. It is good, honest cloth.

 

[ericgereghty]

The suit fabric


View attachment 1878917 View attachment 1878918
looks a lot like Lismore 07 Col 9 from Spence Bryson

Gorgeous. Thanks much. What is conversion of g/sqm to g/oz again? That would put this somewhere in the 270g range, I believe?

Kolecho did a Rangoon run in a very similar pattern. Excellent drape, cool wearing, without the wrinkles.

Interesting. Do you (or @kolecho ) have any photos handy, by chance? Curious to see how it compares.
I think the very drab, washed out nature of this fabric lends itself well to linen, whereas pure wool is better suited to the more traditional grey/black variants. But, indeed, far less wrinkling.

Wrinkles on linen are a feature, not a bug.

That is open to debate. You either love the rumpled look of linen or you hate it. I’m not a fan of wrinkles. I can sleep in my clothing if I want to achieve that look.

I wouldn't go quite so far as either stance here, but, yes better be at least somewhat comfortable with wrinkling. I think I'd consider myself grudgingly comfortable with them, to an extent. That said, dipping my toes in the sub-10oz waters for linen would make me skittish unless/until I had a massive wardrobe. I have a navy suit which I quite enjoy in 14oz Solbiati linen, and even starts showing wrinkles pretty quickly into wearing.