Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[ChasingStyle]

I did that, but I have been waiting to get approved for about 2 weeks now.
Anybody know how to get that done?

email Michael at [email protected]

 

[artyom.le.gall]

Gladston NY/NJ question ...

Does someone here have experience with Gladston and specifically Carlo Barbera cloth ? Do they provide swatch samples for end customers what is the best way to contact them ? any other sources for Carlo Barbera ?

Thanks!
ALG.

 

[jonathanS]

Gladston NY/NJ question ...

Does someone here have experience with Gladston and specifically Carlo Barbera cloth ? Do they provide swatch samples for end customers what is the best way to contact them ? any other sources for Carlo Barbera ?

Thanks!
ALG.

Good stuff. No idea if they’ll send samples. I have a 2.5 meter jacket length available on buy & sell.

 

[konstantis]

Hi to all the members ? Does anyone has any source for filo di scozia fabric ? I am interested of making some shirts from this type of fabric. Thanks.

 

[Fonz4]

Hi to all the members ? Does anyone has any source for filo di scozia fabric ? I am interested of making some shirts from this type of fabric. Thanks.

Has any factory the proper machines to make it?

Well, I always associate filo di Scozia shirts with my traditions.
Back in the 70s in Naples, once spring, men used to wear printed filo di scozia shirts. The printing was like a madder, one of the most famous pattern was small red diamonds with white edges on a navy blue background.
But as far as I know no factory in the world can do this anymore.

 

[konstantis]

Has any factory the proper machines to make it?

Well, I always associate filo di Scozia shirts with my traditions.
Back in the 70s in Naples, once spring, men used to wear printed filo di scozia shirts. The printing was like a madder, one of the most famous pattern was small red diamonds with white edges on a navy blue background.
But as far as I know no factory in the world can do this anymore.

I was really hopping to find one source.

 

[Fonz4]

I was really hopping to find one source.

Let me know if you find it!
I guess it would cost like 1500 $ to make

 

[konstantis]

Let me know if you find it!
I guess it would cost like 1500 $ to make

Alternative could anyone advise me for good jersey fabrics ? Thank you.

 

[artyom.le.gall]

Best Tweed Herringbone Glenncheck / PoW ?

Budget & marketing aside, who has the best stock of classical fall/winter tweed Herringbone & Glenn Check/Plaid (PoW)?
It may be English, Italian, etc..

Best cloth as at my journey start would be a toned down classical cloth that allows t mix and match broadly yet us interesting in a subtle ways....(e.g. multiple threads, cloud depth, fuzziness vs. softness, etc..). And it should be such that lents itself to unlined tailoring..

And between those 2 motifs, is one easier to match? For instance, Voxsartoria's instagram seems to be marvel of Herringbones, but Glenn Check/ PoW seems to be less and definitely more "particular" as an Italian would say.. Is he trying to tell me something ? ??

I hope for a colorful discussion to learn from.. help me guys..


ALG.

 

[heldentenor]

If you're going to make a single tweed jacket, a herringbone is a more versatile option than a glenplaid.

As for books, what weight are you looking for? If you can handle heavier English tweeds, I'd start with the Harrison's group, especially W. Bill and Porter & Harding.

 

[dieworkwear]

PoW is grey with a blue overcheck. Herringbone can be any color. Do you mean a grey PoW checked sport coat? I think of PoW as a suit pattern.

 

[classicalthunde]

Best Tweed Herringbone Glenncheck / PoW ?

Budget & marketing aside, who has the best stock of classical fall/winter tweed Herringbone & Glenn Check/Plaid (PoW)?
It may be English, Italian, etc..

Best cloth as at my journey start would be a toned down classical cloth that allows t mix and match broadly yet us interesting in a subtle ways....(e.g. multiple threads, cloud depth, fuzziness vs. softness, etc..). And it should be such that lents itself to unlined tailoring..

And between those 2 motifs, is one easier to match? For instance, Voxsartoria's instagram seems to be marvel of Herringbones, but Glenn Check/ PoW seems to be less and definitely more "particular" as an Italian would say.. Is he trying to tell me something ? ??

I hope for a colorful discussion to learn from.. help me guys..


ALG.

I think a good amount of Vox's tweeds are London Lounge stuff.

From his tumblr it seems that he purchased some Harris Tweed Herringbones from Butt of Lewis (Callum McClean), I purchased a similar length and am having it made up by the Armoury. I did my first fitting the other day and it is certainly a solid thick tweed

Other than that, I'd check out the W. Bill stuff (from heaviest to lightest - Harris Tweed, Donegal Tweed, Shetland Tweed books)

I've never handled it but Fox Bros also has some great tweed designs as well, but has a fairly high price for non-tailors

 

[Shetterd]

Best Tweed Herringbone Glenncheck / PoW ?

Budget & marketing aside, who has the best stock of classical fall/winter tweed Herringbone & Glenn Check/Plaid (PoW)?
It may be English, Italian, etc..

Best cloth as at my journey start would be a toned down classical cloth that allows t mix and match broadly yet us interesting in a subtle ways....(e.g. multiple threads, cloud depth, fuzziness vs. softness, etc..). And it should be such that lents itself to unlined tailoring..

And between those 2 motifs, is one easier to match? For instance, Voxsartoria's instagram seems to be marvel of Herringbones, but Glenn Check/ PoW seems to be less and definitely more "particular" as an Italian would say.. Is he trying to tell me something ? ??

I hope for a colorful discussion to learn from.. help me guys..


ALG.

Loro Piana Sopra Visso has some lovely 10.5-11oz tweed herringbones.

Loro Piana Sopra Visso - Hall Madden

http://hallmadden.com

hallmadden.smugmug.com

 

[artyom.le.gall]

PoW is grey with a blue overcheck. Herringbone can be any color. Do you mean a grey PoW checked sport coat? I think of PoW as a suit pattern.

To my best understading PoW has nothing to do with specific colors, fabric material, weight, etc... it is merely a pattern. Per wikipedia - Glen plaid (short for Glen Urquhart plaid), also known as Glenurquhart check or Prince of Wales check, is a woollen fabric with a woven twill design of small and large checks...

 

[dieworkwear]

To my best understading PoW has nothing to do with specific colors, fabric material, weight, etc... it is merely a pattern. Per wikipedia - Glen plaid (short for Glen Urquhart plaid), also known as Glenurquhart check or Prince of Wales check, is a woollen fabric with a woven twill design of small and large checks...

My understanding is that glen check is this

While PoW is a variation on the glen check, like this

In any case, I find glen check and herringbone to be relatively interchangeable as patterns in sport coats. I have both in brown and don't find them to be that different. IMO, the main issue is going to be the base color. But if the base color is the same, I don't see why herringbone vs glen check would make a difference in an outfit.

That said, assuming my view of PoW is correct (glen check with an overcheck), I mostly think of that grey + overcheck pattern as for suits.