Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[sprout2]

I think you are on to something here.

 

[sprout2]

Just had a look thru Fresco 3 bunch for the first time... a plethora of colors added that easily holds their own against Finmeresco, although perhaps more pastels in the latter.

 

[Coxsackie]

I kind of want to make people even more angry and get a black suit jacket with pagoda shoulders to wear in the summer time. 16oz flannel.

Well, you'd certainly make one person angry by doing that.

Yourself.

 

[palodelincak]

I'm going to order a navy blue summer suit in Fresco fabric. The jacket will be half lined. I read some posts about that the black canvas is recommended - is it really necessary?

I'm also worried that the white shirt will be visible through trousers. Half lining in summer Fresco trousers is not a good idea?

 

[bamboo]



I'm going to order a navy blue summer suit in Fresco fabric. The jacket will be half lined. I read some posts about that the black canvas is recommended - is it really necessary?

I'm also worried that the white shirt will be visible through trousers. Half lining in summer Fresco trousers is not a good idea?

I have grey, navy and RAF blue fresco garments. I was not worried or worried other people by wearing halflined fresco jacket or trousers.

 

[DavidLane]

@patrickBOOTH here is a screen shot of the Fresco III from https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/55 its 100% wool moc lino. Not sure it would work, but it has an interesting texture.



DL-

 

[UrbanComposition]

I'm surprised no one has paged @Parker. If anyone has good ideas for a cool black jacket summer jacket, it's him.

 

[venividivicibj]

I'd have recommended cotton, but Booth said his sweats fades it too quickly

 

[PCK1]

I'd have recommended cotton, but Booth said his sweats fades it too quickly

In that case he should get a buy one get 30 free black suit from jos. a bank and he can wear a new suit practically every day...

 

[sugarbutch]

I am surprised at the controversy over pBOOTH's endeavor. Surely everyone here knows the look he's going for and can think of a good example of it. It's not MC orthodoxy, but who says bespoke has to be that?

 

[dieworkwear]



I am surprised at the controversy over pBOOTH's endeavor. Surely everyone here knows the look he's going for and can think of a good example of it. It's not MC orthodoxy, but who says bespoke has to be that?

I just think most bespoke tailors aren't that great once you move from non-classic men's clothing. A lot of the stuff I've seen ends up looking a bit dorky.

Most tailors are better thought of as technicians, rather than designers. Designers are often drawing from a large databank of clothes -- maybe archival samples, previous collections, etc. Things from military wear, hunting, avant garde or whatever. Then they take that and make multiple samples. Finish a garment, see what's wrong with it, finish another garment based on those changes. Process can go on for a few iterations.

Tailors don't do that. They finish one garment for you, and if you don't like it, you have to commission another. That's assuming they can (and are willing to) move from classic tailoring. You have to convince them to be able to essentially break from what they think is right, and have been doing for years. I mean, there's that old saying here, "never get a tailor to move from his or her house style." This is essentially that.

But even if you do, you have to be willing to commission multiple iterations (like designer samples) to get it right.

Or you can just buy something off the rack and have that all be done for you, with the price a lot more affordable since the designer is selling hundreds of these things, not just one. Fit doesn't even have to be that precise because it's casualwear.

 

[Mr. Pink]



@patrickBOOTH here is a screen shot of the Fresco III from https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/55 its 100% wool moc lino. Not sure it would work, but it has an interesting texture. DL-

Is "moc lino" a weave type?

 

[Coxsackie]

Is "moc lino" a weave type?

On the left is Lino. On the right is moc lino.

 

[sugarbutch]

I am surprised at the controversy over pBOOTH's endeavor. Surely everyone here knows the look he's going for and can think of a good example of it. It's not MC orthodoxy, but who says bespoke has to be that?

I just think most bespoke tailors aren't that great once you move from non-classic men's clothing. A lot of the stuff I've seen ends up looking a bit dorky.

Most tailors are better thought of as technicians, rather than designers. Designers are often drawing from a large databank of clothes -- maybe archival samples, previous collections, etc. Things from military wear, hunting, avant garde or whatever. Then they take that and make multiple samples. Finish a garment, see what's wrong with it, finish another garment based on those changes. Process can go on for a few iterations.

Tailors don't do that. They finish one garment for you, and if you don't like it, you have to commission another. That's assuming they can (and are willing to) move from classic tailoring. You have to convince them to be able to essentially break from what they think is right, and have been doing for years. I mean, there's that old saying here, "never get a tailor to move from his or her house style." This is essentially that.

But even if you do, you have to be willing to commission multiple iterations (like designer samples) to get it right.

Or you can just buy something off the rack and have that all be done for you, with the price a lot more affordable since the designer is selling hundreds of these things, not just one. Fit doesn't even have to be that precise because it's casualwear.

Sure, sure. But it doesn't invalidate what he's trying to do. It's clear that you wouldn't do it, but I don't think you've really made a case that it's not doable.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



I just think most bespoke tailors aren't that great once you move from non-classic men's clothing. A lot of the stuff I've seen ends up looking a bit dorky.

Most tailors are better thought of as technicians, rather than designers. Designers are often drawing from a large databank of clothes -- maybe archival samples, previous collections, etc. Things from military wear, hunting, avant garde or whatever. Then they take that and make multiple samples. Finish a garment, see what's wrong with it, finish another garment based on those changes. Process can go on for a few iterations.

Tailors don't do that. They finish one garment for you, and if you don't like it, you have to commission another. That's assuming they can (and are willing to) move from classic tailoring. You have to convince them to be able to essentially break from what they think is right, and have been doing for years. I mean, there's that old saying here, "never get a tailor to move from his or her house style." This is essentially that.

But even if you do, you have to be willing to commission multiple iterations (like designer samples) to get it right.

Or you can just buy something off the rack and have that all be done for you, with the price a lot more affordable since the designer is selling hundreds of these things, not just one. Fit doesn't even have to be that precise because it's casualwear.

I don't understand this at all. It is exactly the jacket of some of my other summer suits except black. What are you talking about? It is like you can't look past the color. It isn't like I am trying for weird stylistic twists only seen on the runway.

Also after one goes bespoke the feel of those clothes is hard to get away from, IME. An off the rack jacket that tugs and pulls where your others don't just makes you look uncomfortable and shifting around and such.