The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[Thrift Vader]

The spirit if not the outright style reminds me of the tableware at Le Gavroche in London:

Spoiler

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Dat food tho. . .

 

[jischwar]

Guys, I’m thinking of getting a Panerai (the 42 mm Submersible). Should I go for it, or lie down and wait for the feeling to pass?

I'd go for it, especially if you spend a good amount of time in the water or at the beach. I purchased the 1312 instead of the sub and it sees the most use at the beach. In the summer I tend to regret not getting it, but that subsides in the cooler months.

 

[Benjamin Chee HH]

Just unveiled the Monarque Haute Horlogerie diver. Would love to hear what you guys think!

Maison Celadon and Millésime - fine watches - Official Affiliate Thread

Dear friends, after a year of continuous refinement and improvement, I'm tremendously proud to unveil the new Merveilleux II by Atelier Millésime, a classic, elegant and refined "fantasy vintage" dress watch that's suitable for everyday wear with 100m water resistance and equipped with the...

www.styleforum.net

 

[Ambulance Chaser]

I like this diver a lot (and I liked the Yue Fei a lot as well). Is the bezel steel or ceramic? What is the water resistance?

My major concern with independents/microbrands is aftermarket service. I have a microbrand watch that has been at the spa for over three months to fix a non-working chronograph hour counter, while the Swatch Group routinely takes eight weeks or less to service a watch. From your website, it sounds like you have a system in place for service. Can any skilled watch repairman service this movement, or do you recommend a factory service?

 

[dopey]

Just unveiled the Monarque Haute Horlogerie diver. Would love to hear what you guys think!

Maison Celadon and Millésime - fine watches - Official Affiliate Thread

Dear friends, after a year of continuous refinement and improvement, I'm tremendously proud to unveil the new Merveilleux II by Atelier Millésime, a classic, elegant and refined "fantasy vintage" dress watch that's suitable for everyday wear with 100m water resistance and equipped with the...

www.styleforum.net

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I assume not a single one of your customers will actually dive using this watch, but it still seems odd to have a diver that has no numerical markings on the dial and, especially, the timing bezel.

 

[bdavro23]

I assume not a single one of your customers will actually dive using this watch, but it still seems odd to have a diver that has no numerical markings on the dial and, especially, the timing bezel.

Breitling has a model like this as well and it leaves me completely flumoxed as the the functionality of the piece. With that said, its one of the Breitlings I like most!

 

[dopey]

yeah ... It is perfectly reasonable to design a decorative watch to have a diver feel to it in some aspects, even if, as a whole, it is not really suitable for that use. As people have noted many times, divers no longer really use any mechanical watches, so it is all a conceit. That said, I wear a diver most of the time and use the timing bezel several times a week. It is probably a more useful feature than a chronograph. To me, one without number marks would be pretty useless. But if someone likes the idea of relatively spare design that suggests a diver, it is all the same to me. I just don't really get it.

 

[Dino944]

yeah ... It is perfectly reasonable to design a decorative watch to have a diver feel to it in some aspects, even if, as a whole, it is not really suitable for that use. As people have noted many times, divers no longer really use any mechanical watches, so it is all a conceit. That said, I wear a diver most of he time and use the timing bezel several times a week. It is probably a more useful feature than a chronograph. To me, one without number marks would be pretty useless.

It may seem a bit odd that the watch has no numerals on the dial and bezel. However, with the exception of a few vintage Subs with Explorer style dials, Sub haven't had numerals on the dial in decades. In addition, while most diving watches have numerals on the bezel, it's the luminous marker on the bezel that is/was useful to divers. Many diving watches such as the Submariner or Seamaster only have a single luminous mark on the bezel. Printed or engraved numerals on a bezel are not going to be particularly useful once a diver is below a certain depth (unless they are luminous like on some BP Fifty Fathoms). So while numerals on diving bezels are very common, perhaps they are more useful to people in daily life going to work or running errands, than when diving.

 

[an draoi]

^ +1 dopey

I thought "It's a... dive watch...?", my inner monologue adopting a rising inflection, like Ron Burgundy confronted with an unexpected question mark on his autocue.

I like many aspects of it but I think the diver-but-not aesthetics would bother me.

The hands seem a bit fussy for a dive watch. But it isn't a dive watch. Or is it?

See what I mean?

 

[dan'l]

It may seem a bit odd that the watch has no numerals on the dial and bezel. However, with the exception of a few vintage Subs with Explorer style dials, Sub haven't had numerals on the dial in decades. In addition, while most diving watches have numerals on the bezel, it's the luminous marker on the bezel that is/was useful to divers. Many diving watches such as the Submariner or Seamaster only have a single luminous mark on the bezel. Printed or engraved numerals on a bezel are not going to be particularly useful once a diver is below a certain depth (unless they are luminous like on some BP Fifty Fathoms). So while numerals on diving bezels are very common, perhaps they are more useful to people in daily life going to work or running errands, than when diving.

When starting a dive, the bezel is rotated until the luminous marker ("pearl") is aligned with the minute hand. As the dive progresses, the elapsed time is read on the bezel (in minutes), so I'd argue that the markings are necessary on the bezel, or how else do you measure your bottom time? I get that people are not diving with these watches (myself included), but the "timer" feature could also be used to measure your surface interval between dives, but once again, you'd need to know against what scale you are measuring, hence numerals are required on the bezel.

 

[an draoi]

However, with the exception of a few vintage Subs with Explorer style dials, Sub haven't had numerals on the dial in decades.

But on the bezel they do,which I think is what @dopey wss referring to.

For me, the lack of minute increments on the bezel stood out as a more glaring omission, if this is intended to be a dive watch.

Benjamin, does the bezel rotate?

 

[dopey]

It may seem a bit odd that the watch has no numerals on the dial and bezel. However, with the exception of a few vintage Subs with Explorer style dials, Sub haven't had numerals on the dial in decades. In addition, while most diving watches have numerals on the bezel, it's the luminous marker on the bezel that is/was useful to divers. Many diving watches such as the Submariner or Seamaster only have a single luminous mark on the bezel. Printed or engraved numerals on a bezel are not going to be particularly useful once a diver is below a certain depth (unless they are luminous like on some BP Fifty Fathoms). So while numerals on diving bezels are very common, perhaps they are more useful to people in daily life going to work or running errands, than when diving.

Don't disagree with any of this.

But on the bezel they do,which I think is what @dopey wss referring to.

For me, the lack of minute increments on the bezel stood out as a more glaring omission, if this is intended to be a dive watch.

Benjamin, does the bezel rotate?

Yes. I was referring to the bezel in particular. The dive watch I use doesn't have numbers on the dial, either, but there a minute track through 15 minutes and markers every five minutes with numbers for 10,20,30,40,50 and a 0/60 lume pearl. That is pretty typical. I personally don't use the minute track, but I suppose some people might.

 

[dan'l]

Speaking of diving and diving watches, here is my set-up:

Just kidding! I'm too much of a p*ssy to go diving with my SD!

 

[Keith T]

LOL for real, it might actually get, oh I don't know ...saltwater on it! Heaven forbid.

Oh, and congrats :foo: on the ceramic Daytona. Always nice to hear of someone making that pickup.

 

[Dino944]

But on the bezel they do,which I think is what @dopey wss referring to.

For me, the lack of minute increments on the bezel stood out as a more glaring omission, if this is intended to be a dive watch.

He had actually mentioned the lack of minute markers on both the dial and the bezel as he stated, "...Still seems odd to have a diver that has no numerical markings on the dial and, especially, the timing bezel." But yes, it seems more like he was saying it in reference to bezels.

Personally, the lack of numerical markings on the dial does look a bit odd to me also. Perhaps its just something we have all become accustomed to as most dive watches seem to have them.

Anyway here is one that was used by the German Navy years ago, the Porsche Design Ocean 2000 by IWC. As you will see, it is another one with no numerals on the bezel. Merely a luminous triangle.