The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[dcg]

On a more serious note regarding the no-date Sub vs the SD - it's counter intuitive given the thicker case, but I think the SD may actually work better for those with smaller wrists, and the Sub for those with larger. With the SD, you've got the smaller (for a sports/tool watch) 40mm case that's quite thick, and on a very large wrist that may be an unappealing combo. Conversely, while also 40mm, the thicker lugs of the Sub lead to a more squared off case that wears larger than the SD. For those of average wrist size, probably not a huge factor. May be worth considering if you're on either extreme.

I think it's fair to say that the Sub is the "safer" pick. More wardrobe flexibility due to the thinner case. I have to admit there were some moments when I second guessed myself because I initially found the SD pretty uncomfortable, but I found that I was wearing it too tight - ended up opening up the glidelock a couple of spots and it because MUCH more comfortable. Who knows, maybe I'm just trying to rationalize to myself that the extra $2k was worth it. But can you really put a price on the feeling of superiority that comes from knowing your watch is capable of being submerged 3,990 feet deeper than you'll ever take it, and all those Subs out there can only go 990 feet deeper than their owners will ever go? I submit that you cannot!

You can't make a bad choice between the two.

 

[Renault78law]



I find the 114060 a little more wearable on a daily basis. I went from the Sub to the SD and back to the Sub.

True, the sub is the better all-arounder, but for a weekend watch, I'd definitely choose the SD.

 

[DLJr]

@dcg nailed it.

 

[k4lnamja]

Hi everyone,

First time poster on this thread. I'm in my mid 30s and ready to buy my first "nice" watch so I'm hoping you can provide some guidance/advice. I've narrowed my search down to a Rolex Daytona with a white face (I typically prefer a white face over a darker). I'm also open to purchasing used. However, I really like the 2016 Daytona but aware the wait list is 2-3 yrs long given that there probably arent many used one's available. Any recommendations on what to do other than put down a deposit and wait 3 yrs?

My other issue is the daytona only comes in a 40 mm and although I have skinny wrists, I found the watch looked sort of ... feminine on my wrist (my buddy has a rose gold daytona and I tried it on). My buddy told me to look for a Hublot but I'm afraid that is out of my $15k budget.

Hope someone can provide some guidance.

Thank you

 

[mimo]

You can't make a bad choice between the two.

Brilliant post; really made me grin! One of these days, I suspect it will be the 114060, for two reasons: firstly, I like the absence of the day counter and the resultant "purity" of the design. And secondly, I like the way the case sits on my (7.25") wrist, flatter and wider, like you said. But the SD does have more of a retro cool about it. Each to his own; for now they remain on the wish list.

I've narrowed my search down to a Rolex Daytona with a white face...I really like the 2016 Daytona

So get it. The waiting list is there, but it won't be forever and as you're still planning, there's no harm in getting on the list now. It depends where you are, but I'm sure that in reality it will be a few months, not years.

As for your friend's comments, they seem a little ignorant. Yes, there is a trend for enormous watches right now, but trends come and go. Somehow a 36mm Rolex first sold in the 60s still looks as good now as it did then, and will in the 2060s. A 45mm bronze spam tin sitting 18mm up off the wrist will be about as cool in twenty years as tartan flares and platforms are now. Fortunately, I have both options! But only one is worth spending proper money on. As for Hublot, you can get one cheaper than a Daytona on the grey market. But that will also go the way of the tartan flares - and be worth about as much.

The 39-ish mm Daytona is not big and it's not small. It is, however, a design classic of impeccable reputation, incomparable design identity, flawless manufacturing quality and proportions that just don't get old. It will never be the wrong watch to own. More importantly, it's the one you like. Get it, and feel great about it.

 

[md2010]

Gents, what's everyone's thoughts on Monaco cal11?

 

[usctrojans31]



Hi everyone,

First time poster on this thread. I'm in my mid 30s and ready to buy my first "nice" watch so I'm hoping you can provide some guidance/advice. I've narrowed my search down to a Rolex Daytona with a white face (I typically prefer a white face over a darker). I'm also open to purchasing used. However, I really like the 2016 Daytona but aware the wait list is 2-3 yrs long given that there probably arent many used one's available. Any recommendations on what to do other than put down a deposit and wait 3 yrs?

My other issue is the daytona only comes in a 40 mm and although I have skinny wrists, I found the watch looked sort of ... feminine on my wrist (my buddy has a rose gold daytona and I tried it on). My buddy told me to look for a Hublot but I'm afraid that is out of my $15k budget.

Hope someone can provide some guidance.

Thank you

If you like it, get it. Personally, would not go so sporty for the first "nice" watch, but it's a solid choice.

And I wouldn't touch a Hublot for anything over $5500.

Edit - not sure where (if anywhere) you are in your collection, but if it's just getting started or shifting from base level pieces, your budget allows you to make some really great inroads. For example, you can easily pick up an El Primero, iconic in its own right, and another comparably priced dress watch for your $15K budget.

 

[bigbadbuff]



Hi everyone,

I've narrowed my search down to a Rolex Daytona with a white face (I typically prefer a white face over a darker). I'm also open to purchasing used. However, I really like the 2016 Daytona but aware the wait list is 2-3 yrs long given that there probably arent many used one's available. Any recommendations on what to do other than put down a deposit and wait 3 yrs?

My other issue is the daytona only comes in a 40 mm and although I have skinny wrists, I found the watch looked sort of ... feminine on my wrist (my buddy has a rose gold daytona and I tried it on). My buddy told me to look for a Hublot but I'm afraid that is out of my $15k budget.

Have you considered the < 2015 Daytona- the model being replaced by the 116520 ceramic? You can still find those new/mint on the net, no wait. Many folks like that version better, it certainly dresses up more and is probably more versatile overall than the white face/black subdial ceramic. I liked the older model, but after handling the ceramic black dial I have to say it's truly stunning. You can buy the new one now if you're willing to go above MSRP. Most AD's will not take a deposit on allocated watches like this one.

The ceramic bezel does make the newer model wear a little bigger FYI. I never found the older model small. Too many guys have seen women on Instagram wearing Daytonas and it's scared them off, pretty ridiculous to me.

No offense to your friend, Hublot has very little respect in watch circles, and if you ever decide to sell you will take a bath on it. If you want something bigger/trendy Hublot could be good, something classic there is no comparison between anything in Hublot's lineup and a Daytona.

 

[bigbadbuff]



I think it's fair to say that the Sub is the "safer" pick. More wardrobe flexibility due to the thinner case.

You can't make a bad choice between the two.

Both are terrific. I personally didn't like the additional heft and busier bezel of the SD. The ND Sub ticked every box for me, it's a perfect watch IMO. It's so good that I have truly struggled deciding on a 3rd watch, afraid it won't take any time away from the Sub.

 

[firenze_rob]

@k4lnamja

With a budget of 15k. I'd probably get two pieces 1) Sub non-date and 2) Omega Speedmaster FOIS.

Hublot is a bit too eccentric for a first watch. Although I do like the aesthetic of the first big bang. But it's more of a flourish to a collection that has everything. Most hublots are ugly. but I do like this one.

 

[firenze_rob]

Sepp Blatter and Biver, probably talking about wire transactions and cheese.

 

[dcg]



Both are terrific. I personally didn't like the additional heft and busier bezel of the SD. The ND Sub ticked every box for me, it's a perfect watch IMO. It's so good that I have truly struggled deciding on a 3rd watch, afraid it won't take any time away from the Sub.

I still can't decide which bezel I like better, but at some point I needed to stop waffling and start enjoying having one or the other on my wrist . I do love the dial symmetry of the ND Sub, but for whatever reason, the greater bezel symmetry of the SD is less often brought up.

I have an (admittedly irrational) love of things that are wildly overbuilt, so the SD checks that box for me. I say that knowing full well that the Sub would take all I could dish out and much, much more. I also like that the SD is less commonly seen, and the slimmer lugs/fact that it wears a bit smaller. Too bad Rolex doesn't make a ND SD!

 

[New Shoes1]

Great feedback on the winder discussion!

I've had mine running for 5 years without the need for servicing. It doesn't have much of a reserve hence why it loses time quickly when unworn.
I don't mind manually winding it and resetting the date and time.

I assume using an official rep of the watch company for servicing would be best? They are expensive...

Not sure if this is what you are experiencing with regard to the accuracy of your Oris being all over the place, but I've had an Oris Aquis for 18 months or so and here is what I've found:

- I cannot get the full 38 hour power reserve unless I wear it back to back days or am on my feet for most of a 16 hour day.
- When fully wound, it runs about +12
- With more sporadic (every other day) use, it runs just about perfect.

 

[roomiller]

@k4lnamja Agreed with what everyone else has said regarding the Hublot. I wouldn't worry about the Daytona being too sporty as long as it matches your aesthetic. I can count the number of times Ill wear a suit in a given year by counting the Save-The-Dates hung on my fridge, so a sport watch works perfectly for me. Also office formal is often very different from actual formal, so a sport watch with a suit won't stand out too much and might even be de rigueur.

If you're interested in the uniqueness of the Hublot, I'd recommend you check out the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15400. It's a classic design that can be dressed up or down, and on the grey market it'll fall right within your budget.

 

[Dino944]

Hi everyone,

First time poster on this thread. I'm in my mid 30s and ready to buy my first "nice" watch so I'm hoping you can provide some guidance/advice. I've narrowed my search down to a Rolex Daytona with a white face (I typically prefer a white face over a darker). I'm also open to purchasing used. However, I really like the 2016 Daytona but aware the wait list is 2-3 yrs long given that there probably arent many used one's available. Any recommendations on what to do other than put down a deposit and wait 3 yrs?

My other issue is the daytona only comes in a 40 mm and although I have skinny wrists, I found the watch looked sort of ... feminine on my wrist (my buddy has a rose gold daytona and I tried it on). My buddy told me to look for a Hublot but I'm afraid that is out of my $15k budget.

Find a new buddy!

Just kidding. To each his own, but Hublot makes giant watches that are overly busy, on some level they resemble a mediocre copy of an AP RO, and Hublots have terrible resale value if you tire of it and decide to sell or trade it. If you love the brand or a specific model then go for it, but there are so many great options within your budget.

In addition, if you really love the SS Daytona follow your heart. Put your name down on dealers lists and when you travel, see where the nearest Rolex ADs are and inquire with them. That's what I did 20+ years ago when steel Daytona were in very short supply and were selling for 50-100% over their MSRP. To be honest "The chase" was fun and added to the excitement when I finally got one (or later two).

I don't find anything feminine about Daytonas. Heck, I'd gladly take a older manual wind Daytona which was only around 37mm. Unless you have giant wrists and are really ripped, I find 38-40mm is really a great very versatile size range. At roughly 40mm the Daytona can be paired with a suit if necessary and its still a great size for a sports watch. I think as others have said, perhaps seeing women wear them has made them seem more unisex or feminine but I see it as a mans watch. I've seen women wearing Submariners and I don't think the Sub is a feminine watch either. Wishing you luck on your search for a Daytona!

Have you considered the < 2015 Daytona- the model being replaced by the 116520 ceramic? You can still find those new/mint on the net, no wait. Many folks like that version better, it certainly dresses up more and is probably more versatile overall than the white face/black subdial ceramic. I liked the older model, but after handling the ceramic black dial I have to say it's truly stunning. You can buy the new one now if you're willing to go above MSRP. Most AD's will not take a deposit on allocated watches like this one.

The ceramic bezel does make the newer model wear a little bigger FYI. I never found the older model small. Too many guys have seen women on Instagram wearing Daytonas and it's scared them off, pretty ridiculous to me.

+1

and as you suggested the previous generation Daytona is a great choice if the OP doesn't want to wait.

I do love the dial symmetry of the ND Sub, but for whatever reason, the greater bezel symmetry of the SD is less often brought up.

I think the dial symmetry of the ND Sub and its lack of a date window, make a greater impact on the watch's appearance than the bezel symmetry of the SD.

Personally I think the narrower lugs of the SD are a very nice nod to the previous generation of diving Rolex models, and help make the thicker SD more wearable than if it had both a thicker case and wider lugs. However, I prefer the less busy bezel of the ND Sub. In the end there really isn't a bad choice, the ND Sub and SD 4000 are great watches.