The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[patrick_b]

Nice write-up. Lately I've been considering getting rid of my Seamaster and replacing it with the all blue Pelagos. I need to walk over to the local AD and try one on.

I had the full size Pelagos for a while, sadly the dimensions are not at all close to Newc's Pelagos 39. As long as you are OK with that, it's a solid watch, same great titanium case, bracelet and micro adjustment clasp and nice industrial looking finish (which I quite liked). I just thought 42mm case size and 14mm thickness was a bit much for my taste.

 

[NakedYoga]

I had the full size Pelagos for a while, sadly the dimensions are not at all close to Newc's Pelagos 39. As long as you are OK with that, it's a solid watch, same great titanium case, bracelet and micro adjustment clasp and nice industrial looking finish (which I quite liked). I just thought 42mm case size and 14mm thickness was a bit much for my taste.

Good info. Hopefully the AD has both in stock and I can try them on. I think I would prefer a date complication, but if the size/fit isn't right on the 42mm, then the date isn't as important.

I actually also really like the Black Bay Burgundy. Totally different vibe, though, obviously.

 

[Scuppers]

The Usual Suspects and the Rolex ‘Deep Sea Special’ No. 1 Scheme

My 2021 article debunking the false claims made by super scholars like Auro Montanari and Eric Tortella, relating to the famous ‘bathyscaphe watch’, the Rolex ‘Deep Sea Special&#8…

perezcope.com

Everyone should read this.

 

[New Shoes1]

Good info. Hopefully the AD has both in stock and I can try them on. I think I would prefer a date complication, but if the size/fit isn't right on the 42mm, then the date isn't as important.

I actually also really like the Black Bay Burgundy. Totally different vibe, though, obviously.

For some reason, Tudor designed the case on these so that the case side is just a tall slab of steel with no contours or anything else to distract from how thick the watch is. I tried one on and it was an immediate no for me. If you like the vibe, the old ETA version is much better executed. Those are still fairly easy to find.

 

[DorianGreen]

For some reason, Tudor designed the case on these so that the case side is just a tall slab of steel with no contours or anything else to distract from how thick the watch is. I tried one on and it was an immediate no for me. If you like the vibe, the old ETA version is much better executed. Those are still fairly easy to find.

Maybe it goes with the concept that Tudor is the "poor" man's Rolex, but it seems to me that most of their models are poorly and roughly designed.

 

[Keith T]

Probably will never own one, but I find the Marine Nationale to be quirky in a good way. I

Certainly not the most practical dive watch but I like the shades of blue combined between the dial, bezel, and strap.

 

[Keith T]

The Usual Suspects and the Rolex ‘Deep Sea Special’ No. 1 Scheme

My 2021 article debunking the false claims made by super scholars like Auro Montanari and Eric Tortella, relating to the famous ‘bathyscaphe watch’, the Rolex ‘Deep Sea Special&#8…

perezcope.com

Everyone should read this.

At that level? Caveat emptorrr.

 

[pmeis]

Looks great. I really love all design at Tudor > Rolex for the most part. The more vintage-y look is great, and like you said, they are very tool watch.

My 37mm should be here on Friday

I only really care for the Pelagos side of Tudor. I'm really not into these overly vintage-looking modern watches that the Black Bays specialize in. Despite my dislike of the overly vintage-looking modern watch, I don't actually have much issue with reissues (my love of my JLC Geophysic being what it is) and while the Black Bays are fine watches, I'd be more interested in a straight-up modernized snowflake reissue. Then again, it's hard to argue with the Black Bay's success, so I am obviously on the wrong/odd side with my preferences.

 

[pmeis]

The way it works in other industries is typically that a big tier1 brand in the space will absolutely murder their "retail partners" with dogshit margin and force them to commit to buying $X amount of inventory per year, and in that, a specific product mix too.

For example, Gibson and Fender in the guitar space operate this way.

The logic on the brand's front is very sound, but increasingly most retailers are just "order takers". They are not generating truly incremental demand.

That's why most brands have been squeezing/turning off retail partners. AP doesn't need some random SMB to help them move ROs. They are just burning margin for no real value add. Which is why they are now running their own boutiques, etc.

Happening across a lot of consumer spaces, and makes total sense. As a brand, I already know my top geos and running a retail store is very very hard to **** up if you have *some* data.

For example, we usually launch into different geographies with a distributer, then cut them out and replace them with retailers, and if sales are good enough, cut them out too. Margin expands, low risk, etc.

So the funny thing is that instead of seizing the means of sales like a lot of watch companies have, its actually made Fender/Gibson very dependent on Guitar Center and a few other large retailers. For the most part, these retailers aren't exactly bastions of stability either.

Due to this, Fender and Gibson's fortunes are very much tied to Guitar Center's and there have been various points over the last decade where it almost went sideways for all parties.

 

[Clouseau]

Speaking of Tudor, I know that Texas hates that model, but I will buy it as soon as it is released in 36mm (if it’s without the date),
or in 37 mm like the BB54.

Ooops a picture found on the Net 🤷🏻‍♂️

 

[Ebitdaddy]

So the funny thing is that instead of seizing the means of sales like a lot of watch companies have, its actually made Fender/Gibson very dependent on Guitar Center and a few other large retailers. For the most part, these retailers aren't exactly bastions of stability either.

Due to this, Fender and Gibson's fortunes are very much tied to Guitar Center's and there have been various points over the last decade where it almost went sideways for all parties.

Not true. Fenders dtc business is crushing it and Gibson is doing quite well now too post PE takeover. I have both of their numbers and used to be in the industry.

 

[Clouseau]

I only really care for the Pelagos side of Tudor. I'm really not into these overly vintage-looking modern watches that the Black Bays specialize in. Despite my dislike of the overly vintage-looking modern watch, I don't actually have much issue with reissues (my love of my JLC Geophysic being what it is) and while the Black Bays are fine watches, I'd be more interested in a straight-up modernized snowflake reissue. Then again, it's hard to argue with the Black Bay's success, so I am obviously on the wrong/odd side with my preferences.

I had zero interest towards Tudor until last year when they released the BB54, that I tried. I was very tempted, but didn’t break the bank as I also tried the Pelagos and really dig the Titanium material.
For a long time I thought like a lot here that Tudor was a second or third class Rolex. If I never had a Rolex before, I would definitely want one, but with all the problems that come these days with Rolex, I think that an under the Radar Tudor is the perfect daily watch. A friend has the Ranger and the only thing I don’t like is the 39mm diameter, as the dial is pretty dull and boring, but it would be perfect, to my liking, in a smaller size and even better if it was released in Titanium.

 

[pmeis]

Not true. Fenders dtc business is crushing it and Gibson is doing quite well now too post PE takeover. I have both of their numbers and used to be in the industry.

I was doing this half-assed while on a call, should have said that Fender was too dependent. For sure, Fender is crushing Gibson (in many ways) and they have put a lot of work into broadening their channels. I am in the industry (Fender has been between 10-25% of my revenue for the last 12 years) and I am quite happy with their current direction, specifically over the last 5 years, but things were super dicey at various points before that.

 

[Keith T]

This would be my favorite "modern" Tudor (if you can really count it)=> from Only Watch 2015.

 

[Neville Southall]

UgLy pEaSaNt mAlL WaTcH