The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[TheFoo]

Is there any practical benefit to non-Swiss lever escapements?

IE natural escapements or coaxial?

There doesn’t seem to be really?

In practice, no. Whatever the theoretical advantages of alternative escapements, modern oils and the Swiss lever escapement have been developed to the point where there is little to be gained—especially when considering the issues of complexity and reliability.

Look at Omega’s co-axial. Are Omegas any more precise or stable than Rolexes? Do they need servicing less often? No and no.

But tourbillions also don’t improve precision. They are actually detrimental.

Remontoirs are finicky and extremely difficult to make. If there is any data on how they actually improve timekeeping, I haven’t seen it.

Like alternative escapements, these things are conceptually exciting but not actually practically advantageous. That doesn’t mean they aren’t neat. Up to you how appealing and worthwhile.

Best way to improve on timekeeping in a basic mechanical movement is first and foremost the free-sprung balance. This has been proven over many decades by Patek and Rolex, though virtually all high-end makers have also adopted it by now.

More recently, makers are switching to dual barrels—not for extending power reserve, but to even-out torque transmission. This has a very real and noticeable impact on rate stability.

 

[Kaplan]

Back from its first service on a fresh original buffalo strap.

 

[Clouseau]

We all know it’s a cheap thing, but fun, apparently a new iteration soon…

It Sounds Like the Snoopy MoonSwatch Is Almost Here

The collab is set to get animated with a little help from the cartoon beagle, a long-time friend of the Omega brand

www.esquire.com

 

[JamesInLondon]

Is there any practical benefit to non-Swiss lever escapements?

IE natural escapements or coaxial?

There doesn’t seem to be really?

Can we please stop calling it the "Swiss" lever escapement, there is nothing originally Swiss about it? It was invented by Thomas Mudge in 1750, at a time when the Swiss hadn't even begun making fakes.

Up until the Swiss copied the American factory production system, their primary business was making fakes of French and English watches; possible only because their currency was practically worthless and they had the cheapest labour in Europe. Switzerland was the 19th century equivalent of late 20th century China.

 

[TheFoo]

Can we please stop calling it the "Swiss" lever escapement, there is nothing originally Swiss about it? It was invented by Thomas Mudge in 1750, at a time when the Swiss hadn't even begun making fakes.

Up until the Swiss copied the American factory production system, their primary business was making fakes of French and English watches; possible only because their currency was practically worthless and they had the cheapest labour in Europe. Switzerland was the 19th century equivalent of late 20th century China.

Mudge invented it, but Swiss manufacturers made it viable for mass, commercial production in the 19th century.

 

[TheFoo]

One more!

 

[NakedYoga]

Finally got around to taking some decent photos of the 5811 with a real camera.

But photos don’t do justice to the quality and complexity of the case finishing. For example, the whisper-thin polished bevels along the edges of the bracelet links are perfectly aligned and streamlined from link to link. The brushing on the “ears” is curved to flow with their profile.

The back of the case is just as nicely finished and may be the hardest part to do. As they’ve returned to the mono-bloc construction of the original Nautilus, the bezel around the sapphire crystal is a single piece with the middle case and imposes a continuous interior angle around the entire circumference that has to be carefully resolved.

Bringing back the mono-bloc case is a really significant and meaningful upgrade versus the 5711, as it restores the original functionality of the case design, which had dictated its now iconic form—i.e. the 5811 case fully depends on the “ears” for water resistance and can be thinner for it too. In contrast, the 5711 and most other contemporary Nautilus models rely on a conventional screwback, rendering the ears superficial and decorative.

What I love is that Patek didn’t have to do it: nobody was demanding the mono-bloc, it required a ton of re-engineering and re-tooling, and they could have sold every single 5811 just as easily even without it.

I’ve now been wearing the watch for several months, on an almost daily basis. The thinness of the case and the suppleness of the bracelet make for an incredibly comfortable and natural feeling watch on the wrist. The weight is real, though. At just under 200 grams, it’s more than 50% heavier than a titanium Big Pilot (the 46mm one with 7-day movement). You won’t forget it’s an all-gold watch!

Having said all that, I would never wear this as I would a straight-up tool or sport watch. It’s just way too nice. My Daytona is my natural choice for camping trips and rough housing with the kids. But then, contrary to what some think, watches like the Nautilus and Royal Oak were never supposed to be “sport watches” in that way. They are luxury leisure watches—for lounging around in when you aren’t doing anything in particular.

For going to work in a more dressed-down environment or on a date with my wife, it is perfect. Though I’d also wear it with a suit in a pinch.

Unfortunate that the Nautilus is shrouded in so much hype. Underneath, it’s truly an exceptional watch.

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Really great shots and a nice piece. Do you still have your Aquanaut?

 

[TheFoo]

Really great shots and a nice piece. Do you still have your Aquanaut?

Thank you. Yes—but between the Nautilus and Daytona, it doesn’t find much opportunity to be worn.

 

[Texasmade]

Thank you. Yes—but between the Nautilus and Daytona, it doesn’t find much opportunity to be worn.

Are you still wearing your other watches or pretty much Daytona/Nautilus only?

 

[TheFoo]

Are you still wearing your other watches or pretty much Daytona/Nautilus only?

Oh, I still wear everything—but truthfully, between the 5170, 5811, and Daytona, I don’t really need anything else.

 

[taxgenius]

In NYC subways, I'm not worried about targeted muggings so much as the unpredictable crazy people.

The preachers and dancers annoy me to no end.

 

[New Shoes1]

Volleyball tournaments leave lots of time for watch pictures.

 

[TheFoo]

Wore my Nautilus to brunch at Le Coucou with the fam. Miraculously, was not mugged on the walk there or back. Whew.

 

[Concordia]

I bought mine at Shreve in Boston-- may try to swing by today.

And I did. The salesman I used during the purchase was there and will send it back to the factory. If I can find the warranty card, all should be well. In any case, they should be able to fix it.

 

[taxgenius]

JLC Polaris