The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[Ebitdaddy]

Saw this on the Christie’s site. Pretty cool. Really like the design.

There’s an awesome minute repeater/tb from parmigiani that sold too

 

[DorianGreen]

I stumbled across this beauty, the IWC Golf Club SL Automatic, designed by Gérald Genta.

It would be great if IWC would offer a reedition of it.

 

[acconrad]

View attachment 2051835


Saw this on the Christie’s site. Pretty cool. Really like the design.

There’s an awesome minute repeater/tb from parmigiani that sold too

Why is Breguet not regarded as highly as the Holy Trinity? Every time I see a watch from them I’m starstruck

 

[pmeis]

I stumbled across this beauty, the IWC Golf Club SL Automatic, designed by Gérald Genta.

View attachment 2051853

It would be great if IWC would offer a reedition of it.

I would wear this!

 

[Dino944]

I stumbled across this beauty, the IWC Golf Club SL Automatic, designed by Gérald Genta.

View attachment 2051853

It would be great if IWC would offer a reedition of it.

I like the design, and would wear one if they made it...but knowing how the company is today, they would probably do something to ruin it.

 

[JamesInLondon]

Why is Breguet not regarded as highly as the Holy Trinity? Every time I see a watch from them I’m starstruck

Because it has very little continuous history, unlike the 3 biggies, it has been passed around like a parcel at a kid's party. A-L Breguet was the most radical and innovative watchmaker in France in his day, but the company went down hill from then. The business was owned by the English Brown family for longer than the Breguet family had it, and a combination of French tax laws, two world wars and the great depression meant that they were barely breaking into double figure production numbers for ages. For example my Breguet was finished in 1929 but didn't find a buyer until 1936.
After WWII the firm was kept alive by an order from the French Air Ministry for chronographs, but these were Breguet in name only, they bought the Valjoux movements from the Swiss, the cases were also from an external supplier and Breguet's sole involvement was having the dials printed and assembling the watches.
Things were so bad that the Brown's tried to GIVE Breguet to George Daniels, he looked at the operation and declined. In 1970, the historic Parisian jewellers Chaumet purchased the brand and in 1980 hired Daniel Roth to breathe new life into the product line - unfortunately the Chaumet brothers went to jail (another story) and after a while it was bought by the middle eastern venture capital firm Investcorp in 1990. VC firms do what VC firms do, they disposed of Roth and increased production and then sold it to the Swatch Group in 1999. Since then it has languished under the ownership of the Swatch Group; when they bought it, the turnover was similar to that of Audemars Piguet, nowadays it's less than half.
IMHO A-L Breguet was the 18th century equivalent of Greubel Forsey, dedicated to horology but always pushing the envelope, I think that if he was - somehow - still alive he wouldn't be making pastiches of 200+ year old watches, his stuff would look like G-F or Richard Mille and he would look at a watch like the LV Carpe Diem and marvel at it and look at the current Breguet product line and weep.

 

[am55]

I think that if he was - somehow - still alive he wouldn't be making pastiches of 200+ year old watches, his stuff would look like G-F or Richard Mille and he would look at a watch like the LV Carpe Diem and marvel at it and look at the current Breguet product line and weep.

Counterargument is that you already have those types alive today for those who care (e.g. GF and Mille) and there's plenty of folks who think like Roger Scruton that music peaked with Wagner and watches with those pastiches. Breguet is the steak that is somehow always on the menu regardless of how adventurous the restaurant otherwise is. And I've written many letters of applications to elBulli back in the days (unsuccessfully) but now I often order the steak so...

 

[Texasmade]

One To Watch: Breitling Designer Sylvain Berneron Sets Out To Explore Asymmetry On His Own

The designer's first independent watch crosses classic inspiration while defying convention.

www.hodinkee.com

I actually kind of like these but way out of my price range. Only complaint I would have is that the leather strap is too close to the case and the constant rubbing will wear out the strap pretty quick.

 

[JamesInLondon]

Counterargument is that you already have those types alive today for those who care (e.g. GF and Mille) and there's plenty of folks who think like Roger Scruton that music peaked with Wagner and watches with those pastiches. Breguet is the steak that is somehow always on the menu regardless of how adventurous the restaurant otherwise is. And I've written many letters of applications to elBulli back in the days (unsuccessfully) but now I often order the steak so...

But if you wanted a watch which channelled the spirit of A_L B, Urban Jurgensen under Pratt and Baumberger were making better pastiches of ançien Breguets than the Swatch Group were.

When I wanted to replace my Patek 3940 perpetual calendar with an independent, I narrowed the field down to two, the UJ series 3 and the DeBethune DB25, I loved the 3 dimensional moon on the DB but couldn't get my head around a manual wind perpetual calendar. So I chose the UJ, and never regretted it for a moment

 

[Dino944]

Counterargument is that you already have those types alive today for those who care (e.g. GF and Mille) and there's plenty of folks who think like Roger Scruton that music peaked with Wagner and watches with those pastiches. Breguet is the steak that is somehow always on the menu regardless of how adventurous the restaurant otherwise is. And I've written many letters of applications to elBulli back in the days (unsuccessfully) but now I often order the steak so...

Interesting analogy, but isn't the steak at the adventurous restaurant really for that person who is going out to eat with other people, and he isn't an adventurous diner? Sure it's probably a good quality steak and they do a good job cooking it. However, why go to that restaurant for the steak when it is really known for other more adventurous dishes. Wouldn't that diner who lacks an adventurous palate more likely opt for the steakhouse that is specifically known for their steaks, and he can get his usual "loaded baked potato," caesar salad, and molten chocolate cake ? Sure maybe he would on occasion go to the adventurous place for steak because they have good service, or a good wine selection, or maybe out of convenience if it is very close to his work or his home. However, I just don't see that guy choosing the adventurous restaurant if he has a choice of other places or he isn't going with a group of people who chose that place. Same goes for Breguet...nice watches but when you have plenty of other choices I think a lot of people would and do go with something from the Big Three or Lange.

 

[Clouseau]

Interesting analogy, but isn't the steak at the adventurous restaurant really for that person who is going out to eat with other people, and he isn't an adventurous diner? Sure it's probably a good quality steak and they do a good job cooking it. However, why go to that restaurant for the steak when it is really known for other more adventurous dishes. Wouldn't that diner who lacks an adventurous palate more likely opt for the steakhouse that is specifically known for their steaks, and he can get his usual "loaded baked potato," caesar salad, and molten chocolate cake ? Sure maybe he would on occasion go to the adventurous place for steak because they have good service, or a good wine selection, or maybe out of convenience if it is very close to his work or his home. However, I just don't see that guy choosing the adventurous restaurant if he has a choice of other places or he isn't going with a group of people who chose that place. Same goes for Breguet...nice watches but when you have plenty of other choices I think a lot of people would and do go with something from the Big Three or Lange.

Wrong thread 😉

STEAKS!!!!!!!

2.5 lbs of heaven. Why spend $65 on a single STEAK? Cause **** you, that's why.

www.styleforum.net

 

[chocomallo]

but when you have plenty of other choices I think a lot of people would and do go with something from the Big Three or Lange.

I doubt you meant it this way, but “or Lange” at the end gave me a laugh—“When you can’t afford to wait, go Lange.”

 

[Dino944]

I doubt you meant it this way, but “or Lange” at the end gave me a laugh—“When you can’t afford to wait, go Lange.”

Not what I meant, but thanks for a good laugh!

 

[bespoken pa]

I doubt you meant it this way, but “or Lange” at the end gave me a laugh—“When you can’t afford to wait, go Lange.”

I would put lange above ap without question. I still can't understand why anyone would spend the ridiculous sums ap is asking for a variant of the same watch over and over again. The datograph and zeitwerk are far more attractive pieces. Just my .02

 

[Newcomer]

One To Watch: Breitling Designer Sylvain Berneron Sets Out To Explore Asymmetry On His Own

The designer's first independent watch crosses classic inspiration while defying convention.

www.hodinkee.com

I actually kind of like these but way out of my price range. Only complaint I would have is that the leather strap is too close to the case and the constant rubbing will wear out the strap pretty quick.

I, too, think these are really cool. I find it incredibly refreshing, particularly compared to most independents - which are singularly focused on finishing.

This article from Revolution is more technical:

Sylvain Berneron Makes His Debut with the Mirage

An intelligently designed asymmetrical dress watch through and through.

revolutionwatch.com