The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[TheFoo]

Tank LC doesn’t use the Piguet any more, it’s a JLC 846 manual wind now, rebadged as 8971 MC

Yes, the memory is failing me . You are correct, the current model uses a JLC, and I edited my summary to reflect that. Thanks!



That watch was part of a past collection known as Collection Privee Cartier Paris. This model is Tank Louis Cartier XL. I'd have to check on the reference number. These don't come up for sale very often as they only made 200 in rose gold and 50 in platinum.

Actually, they phased out the JLC-based 8971 MC a couple years ago or so and replaced it with their “in-house” 1917 MC. I haven’t researched the precise differences (does it matter in this sort of watch?) but they are definitely different calibers.

Confusingly, the current rose gold manual-wind Tank LC still lists the 8971 MC as its movement on the company website—but if you buy a recent production version of that watch (with the exact same model number), it comes with the 1917 MC. This much I know for a fact, having enquired specifically with Cartier in the process of doing my special order. I actually asked if it was possible to use the old JLC caliber, but the response was a hard no.

 

[ntempleman]

The metal bracelet LC is listed with the 1917, maybe they’re in the middle of transitioning the website, or just forgot to update it

 

[ctp120]

 

[New Shoes1]

Does Hodinkee have a page here?
I'm considering a watch they carry and had a question about it. I emailed them an inquiry and their auto response was:

We’ve received your request and will be in touch shortly – while we strive to address all emails within 24-48 business hours, our recent increase in volume may mean that our team falls just outside of this timeframe. We assure you that your message will not be overlooked.

In today's uber competitive market, why would a company like Hodinkee take 24-48 hours or possibly more to respond to a customer inquiry. Most retailers, especially watch dealers, have a chat button for during normal business hours (and some even beyond). And if not, they usually have a 24hr response time. 24-48+? That seems crazy.

If this is their customer service when trying to sell you a watch, what will it be like if you have an issue? Unless there is a significant price difference, I'd go with the AD that wants your business and will answer your questions.

 

[classicalthunde]

Actually, they phased out the JLC-based 8971 MC a couple years ago or so and replaced it with their “in-house” 1917 MC. I haven’t researched the precise differences (does it matter in this sort of watch?) but they are definitely different calibers.

Confusingly, the current rose gold manual-wind Tank LC still lists the 8971 MC as its movement on the company website—but if you buy a recent production version of that watch (with the exact same model number), it comes with the 1917 MC. This much I know for a fact, having enquired specifically with Cartier in the process of doing my special order. I actually asked if it was possible to use the old JLC caliber, but the response was a hard no.

Do you know (approximately) when the made the transition from the JLC-based to in-house 1917 MC?

 

[mosy]

Probably the answer is staffing.

I can’t imagine their inquiry volume requires dedicated staffing. Anyone in the sales department can answer the questions that come in when they have down time. And trust me, there is down time.

 

[TheFoo]

The metal bracelet LC is listed with the 1917, maybe they’re in the middle of transitioning the website, or just forgot to update it

Yeah, the website is not updated. It’s been at least a year or two though, so I don’t think they particularly care.

Do you know (approximately) when the made the transition from the JLC-based to in-house 1917 MC?

I don’t know exactly, but at least since they introduced the bracelet version of the Tank LC, which always had the newer movement listed.

 

[Texasmade]

The metal bracelet LC is listed with the 1917, maybe they’re in the middle of transitioning the website, or just forgot to update it

The Cartier website is total dogshit. They'll have the same watch listed twice all the time. Then if you compare between countries, they'll have different things listed.

 

[ntempleman]

Better than the Lange site at least, ****** low res images like it’s TGP from 1998

 

[LA Guy]

I can’t imagine their inquiry volume requires dedicated staffing. Anyone in the sales department can answer the questions that come in when they have down time. And trust me, there is down time.

That's probably the reason for the longer response time.

 

[troika]

What's the question? Just ask it here

 

[montecristo#2]

Better than the Lange site at least, ****** low res images like it’s TGP from 1998

View attachment 1788442

RT!

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

 

[Ebitdaddy]

I custom designed this one with Felipe, and it came out better than I could have imagined.

Much like my Benzinger, I think bespoke watches from small independents utilizing existing movements offer amazing value. The movements are easy to maintain and extensive custom work can be performed at a very reasonable price point. I actually am more satisfied with this purchase than watches like my Zeitwerk that were way, way more.

Most importantly, I get to support a fellow entrepreneur and emerging watchmaker!

Bullets, because I am lazy…

• The movement! Everything is here. Internal angles, thick anglage, snailing on the gears, a beautifully engraved balance cock, frosting, etc. You usually won’t find anglage or interior angles like this unless you spend 10x.

• He nailed the dial. I asked for something lightly textured, and I think it came together well. It makes an otherwise reserved dial come to life.

• Logo plate. Really well executed, this is actually pressed in and required very tight tolerances to do correctly.

• Hands are beautiful, broad and very reactive to light.

• Case is vertically brushed in the middle section, everything else is polished. The lugs are cool too!

• The crown has a nicely inlaid ceramic logo.

• I outlined what I wanted, Felipe sent over ideas, then we agreed on what made the cut, and this was the end product. A simple and fun process!

• He was essentially bang-on with the wait time and pricing was incredibly reasonable, it made this a total no brainer.

Overall, I would 100% recommend him. Unfortunately, I think he’s closed to orders right now. Definitely planning on a second watch, maybe the moonphase he’s doing.

 

[montecristo#2]

View attachment 1788552 View attachment 1788553 View attachment 1788554 View attachment 1788555 View attachment 1788556

I custom designed this one with Felipe, and it came out better than I could have imagined.

Much like my Benzinger, I think bespoke watches from small independents utilizing existing movements offer amazing value. The movements are easy to maintain and extensive custom work can be performed at a very reasonable price point. I actually am more satisfied with this purchase than watches like my Zeitwerk that were way, way more.

Most importantly, I get to support a fellow entrepreneur and emerging watchmaker!

Bullets, because I am lazy…

• The movement! Everything is here. Internal angles, thick anglage, snailing on the gears, a beautifully engraved balance cock, frosting, etc. You usually won’t find anglage or interior angles like this unless you spend 10x.

• He nailed the dial. I asked for something lightly textured, and I think it came together well. It makes an otherwise reserved dial come to life.

• Logo plate. Really well executed, this is actually pressed in and required very tight tolerances to do correctly.

• Hands are beautiful, broad and very reactive to light.

• Case is vertically brushed in the middle section, everything else is polished. The lugs are cool too!

• The crown has a nicely inlaid ceramic logo.

• I outlined what I wanted, Felipe sent over ideas, then we agreed on what made the cut, and this was the end product. A simple and fun process!

• He was essentially bang-on with the wait time and pricing was incredibly reasonable, it made this a total no brainer.

Overall, I would 100% recommend him. Unfortunately, I think he’s closed to orders right now. Definitely planning on a second watch, maybe the moonphase he’s doing.

Spectacular.