The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[DorianGreen]

Hello! I have an unusual problem with trouser fit in the knee and below. The trousers are wide and comfy enough, it seems to me, but they are weirdly catching around the knee area. Any idea what may be causing this and how to fix it? Have them widened below the knee?

Yes, as often nowadays, too narrow or too much tapering trousers.

 

[MrAristocat]

Yes indeed… This doesn’t show badly from the front, but from the side it is obvious they are too narrow. Let’s hope that is the issue, as it is an easy fix, there’s at least a few cm spare fabric either side.

 

[rd25]

Hello,

I have a MTM commission for a sport coat (photos attached, apologies for a little bit of my dog’s tail present) and would love feedback regarding the fit.

In particular, my concern is the way the lapels lift off the body mostly towards the collar (this is present even with the jacket unbuttoned).

I am led to believe that this is largely a posture issue, as the issue improves if I slouch my shoulders forward. The chest has quite a lot of extra room (I think) and the shoulders seem to me to fit well overall.

Is this something that could be fixed? @Despos, would you have any recommendations?

Thank you all!

 

[Despos]

This is what can be done now.
(Nerdy explanation to follow)
On the inside of the jacket there is a bridle tape that runs parallel to and about .5” inside the break line. The breakline is on the bias and the tape does two things. It’s drawn in to make the breakline “short“. Let’s say the tape is 12”. The tape is stretched over a 12.5” area to draw in the canvas and and then it is shrunk to create shape over your chest. It makes the breakline lay closer to your chest.
This will help and is about all you can do when the jacket is finished. The real issue that can’t be fixed by an alteration is the chest area of the jacket between the collar to the button is too small. You need .5” to .75” more cloth. It’s not a matter of using a bigger chest size, it’s a pattern flaw. This is an issue with modern pattern making and you see it frequently.

 

[rd25]

This is what can be done now.
(Nerdy explanation to follow)
On the inside of the jacket there is a bridle tape that runs parallel to and about .5” inside the break line. The breakline is on the bias and the tape does two things. It’s drawn in to make the breakline “short“. Let’s say the tape is 12”. The tape is stretched over a 12.5” area to draw in the canvas and and then it is shrunk to create shape over your chest. It makes the breakline lay closer to your chest.
This will help and is about all you can do when the jacket is finished. The real issue that can’t be fixed by an alteration is the chest area of the jacket between the collar to the button is too small. You need .5” to .75” more cloth. It’s not a matter of using a bigger chest size, it’s a pattern flaw. This is an issue with modern pattern making and you see it frequently.

Thank you so much for your response.

If I were to commission another jacket, would I be able to address this issue or is this specific MTM pattern going to always have this issue for me?

 

[Despos]

Thank you so much for your response.

If I were to commission another jacket, would I be able to address this issue or is this specific MTM pattern going to always have this issue for me?

That’s something to discuss with the people you worked with.
I’ll look for a picture of a jacket properly sized and post it here. You’ll see the difference and how it looks.

 

[rd25]

This is what can be done now.
(Nerdy explanation to follow)
On the inside of the jacket there is a bridle tape that runs parallel to and about .5” inside the break line. The breakline is on the bias and the tape does two things. It’s drawn in to make the breakline “short“. Let’s say the tape is 12”. The tape is stretched over a 12.5” area to draw in the canvas and and then it is shrunk to create shape over your chest. It makes the breakline lay closer to your chest.
This will help and is about all you can do when the jacket is finished. The real issue that can’t be fixed by an alteration is the chest area of the jacket between the collar to the button is too small. You need .5” to .75” more cloth. It’s not a matter of using a bigger chest size, it’s a pattern flaw. This is an issue with modern pattern making and you see it frequently.

Also, please pardon my ignorance, I don’t quite fully follow you.

How can I address the bridle tape to help with the issue?

Would you be able to further explain to me the issue of the chest pattern and how a bigger chest size would not be helpful?

Thank you so much again

 

[rd25]

That’s something to discuss with the people you worked with.
I’ll look for a picture of a jacket properly sized and post it here. You’ll see the difference and how it looks.

Thank you, I will do so

 

[stylecounsel1]

Other than the sleeve length, is this poplin dress shirt fit acceptable? It is 'regular' fit from the range of xtra slim, slim, shaped, regular, comfort.

It seems baggier than my other shirts and is bigger in the chest and shoulders. Tucking it in properly helps.

I am of slim build but have gained a slight belly lately so my slim fit shirts pull in the middle. I am 36chest and the shirt is 55cm / 21.66in p2p. My other (slim) shirts are about 52cm / 20.5in p2p.
The plus is that it feels comfortable and does not pull anywhere.
Perhaps it will shrink a little after washing?

Overall is it OK for a ready made shirt? Thanks

 

[greypleatedtrousers]

Hello all,

May I please have advice on the fit of this blazer? I originally took it in because I thought it was too loose (see picture 1). But I just picked it up from the tailor today and had her take pictures (see picture 2) but it appears now very off and ill fitting from the back, hence I had them return it to the original. What should I do? Thanks in advance.

 

[thezou2]

Advice on this Navy sport coat from Spier and Mackay? I know the sleeves are too long. I figured the waist can be taken in as well? Thanks!

 

[ericfred]

Hi all,

I recently commissioned a bespoke suit and am pleased with the result overall, but a bit concerned that the trousers are too slim and too short. I typically like some room in the thigh and at least a half break at the bottom. There's good shaping, but they feel a bit 'grabby' and pull at the thigh/knee when I walk and sit. Also, the pleats don't seem to sit neatly. Any opinions would be appreciated.

If I did want to address this, could the entire leg be widened slightly without messing up the balance and shape? There's a good bit of seam allowance along the leg.

Thank you!!

 

[ConElPueblo]

After looking for a brown wool/silk/linen SC for summer, I stumbled across a size 48 from Eidos online. Some thorough research on here and I was hooked - it had everything I looked for and I loved the fit I saw in photos as well as all the quirkiness, exclusivity, etc. of the brand.

I am somewhere in between a 48 and 50, leaning toward 48 mostly, but I feel the fit here is off. There is quite restricted movement in the upper portion and the sleeves are at the minimum width I can deal with. Jacket and sleeve lenght is spot on however, shoulders are great and I love the fabric.

sorry 'bout the mess...

There is no size 50 available of this model and the Eidos models in size 50 I've seen specs for are all much roomier in the chest and shoulder area to the tune of >1" anywat, which would necessitate some fairly heavy and expensive alterations to make it fit...

Can this be saved? I would dearly love to keep it.

Edit: Jesus, didn't realise that the photos were this crap until I saw them on a computer screen! The colour balance was edited (poorly, it would seem) because of our bleak winter light.

 

[hitsuji]

Hi all,

I recently commissioned a bespoke suit and am pleased with the result overall, but a bit concerned that the trousers are too slim and too short. I typically like some room in the thigh and at least a half break at the bottom. There's good shaping, but they feel a bit 'grabby' and pull at the thigh/knee when I walk and sit. Also, the pleats don't seem to sit neatly. Any opinions would be appreciated.

If I did want to address this, could the entire leg be widened slightly without messing up the balance and shape? There's a good bit of seam allowance along the leg.

Thank you!!

The trousers are quite slim, I’m assuming you’ve changed your style a little since the commission or gained some weight.

The leg can be let out quite easily without proportions being thrown out of wack. The hips are cut a little slim which makes the pleats and pockets flare out which is a much harder task to alter for. I’d simply go back to the tailor and ask what they think they can do

 

[FragataLibertad]

I had this MTM suit made with Atelier Munro. I’m worried the trousers aren’t falling quite correctly. Is there anything that should be adjusted here? Length, leg opening, other?