The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]

I found another jacket that is 29.5 inches long - a bit shorter than the green tweed, and a bit longer than the other one I posted. It meets my right thumb. This may be the Goldilocks length for me.

Perfect to my eye. It hits precisely at the tip of your right thumb.

 

[ManuMICHEL]

Hey all! Ive been In this forum for a really short time, but ive been learning tailoring self taught for about 3 months now (I know, its a really short time, Specially for tailoring, but I really love this) And for one of my last classes of "Craftsmanship" in school (Im on the last year of school in Argentina, its weird but its a real class) I was thinking of doing a presentation on tailoring, and the craftsmanship that goes into it, and also putting examples of alterations that could be done. I have 2 done, and I grabbed example from fittings here in this thread. Could you guys please tear it apart if it's necessary? I want to know where I can learn more. (Also, If any of the people that are included in my example don't want me to use them, please tell me, I will happily take them off). If you're "Up to the challenge" I will attach them on the next post, Im finishing the second one! Thanks for reading this!

 

[Jsm87]

Hello! I received a MTM sportcoat from Suitsupply and I would appreciate if you can give me some feedback on how can it be improved and how can I improve the fit for a possible future order, especially regarding shoulder slope. I'm mostly fine with the fit, what I don't like is the horizontal lines on the upper back and under the collar (collar pleating). I've read some older posts from Despos about what can cause it, tension on shoulder blades, square shoulders etc. but in my case I can't figure out what's causing it. I already reduced "collar height" by 0.5 cm and I wonder if I should have reduced it by 1 cm, but I've read that in some cases, this can make it worse. The lines are also slightly shorter in width, in my case. There seem to be some slight diagonal creases just above my glutes as well, I think is because of my hallow lower back.

I know that the pictures are not the best quality, but I hope you can still give me some feedback!

 

[ManuMICHEL]

Hello! I received a MTM sportcoat from Suitsupply and I would appreciate if you can give me some feedback on how can it be improved and how can I improve the fit for a possible future order, especially regarding shoulder slope. I'm mostly fine with the fit, what I don't like is the horizontal lines on the upper back and under the collar (collar pleating). I've read some older posts from Despos about what can cause it, tension on shoulder blades, square shoulders etc. but in my case I can't figure out what's causing it. I already reduced "collar height" by 0.5 cm and I wonder if I should have reduced it by 1 cm, but I've read that in some cases, this can make it worse. The lines are also slightly shorter in width, in my case. There seem to be some slight diagonal creases just above my glutes as well, I think is because of my hallow lower back.

I know that the pictures are not the best quality, but I hope you can still give me some feedback!

Hi! im an apprentice, so please take what im going to say with a grain of salt, but I see some other problems also with your jacket which might not be a problem to you, but ill point them out just in case:
For me, the sleeves (Particularly around the sleeve head) might be big on width (Too much fabric basically), and there is also worked fullness around the sleeve head which appear as almost pleats.
Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but your back seems a little bit too "big on width".
For the hollow upper back, I would let out the CB by 1/4 inch starting from where the wrinkles in your suit form, and (Also letting out the shoulder seam by 3/8 inch from where the neck and shoulder meet) kinda move the neck and shoulder point towards the new CB. (I hope im being clear), You should also work the extra fullness about 3/8 inch from about 1 inch below the neck point to about 1 inch before the shoulder "ends" (Basically, "between notches").
For the lower back, in which it seems that you have a "Pool of fabric", I would maybe add more sway from around 1/1.5 inch below your scye (or chest) line, to about 1 inch above the hip line.
I hope I was clear!

 

[Jsm87]

Hi! im an apprentice, so please take what im going to say with a grain of salt, but I see some other problems also with your jacket which might not be a problem to you, but ill point them out just in case:
For me, the sleeves (Particularly around the sleeve head) might be big on width (Too much fabric basically), and there is also worked fullness around the sleeve head which appear as almost pleats.
Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but your back seems a little bit too "big on width".
For the hollow upper back, I would let out the CB by 1/4 inch starting from where the wrinkles in your suit form, and (Also letting out the shoulder seam by 3/8 inch from where the neck and shoulder meet) kinda move the neck and shoulder point towards the new CB. (I hope im being clear), You should also work the extra fullness about 3/8 inch from about 1 inch below the neck point to about 1 inch before the shoulder "ends" (Basically, "between notches").
For the lower back, in which it seems that you have a "Pool of fabric", I would maybe add more sway from around 1/1.5 inch below your scye (or chest) line, to about 1 inch above the hip line.
I hope I was clear!

Thank you for your feedback!

Your observation about upper sleeve width is correct and yes, the shoulder is pleated. This is something I personally requested because of my round shoulder/biceps area. Basically, to achieve a straight line, I need either an extended shoulder or fullness in that area and I went with fullness in this case. It may not look 100% clean but I'm fine with it. I attached an image of another coat I tried several months ago where you can see that the upper arm muscles push out on the sleeve.

Regarding the upper back, I don't really feel it tight, so I don't know if my back is too wide for the jacket back width, but there is something going on with those horizontal wrinkles. The MTM maker that I use allow to increase both shoulder width and upper back width (which is at 15 cm down from back of collar). For a new jacket you suggest slightly increasing both of these measurements, right? What do you think about the shoulder slope, can it cause those wrinkles and the collar roll?

For the lower back, by "sway" you mean tapering it more from chest to waist? Or do you mean less taper?

Another thought: the waist of my jacket is already pretty suppressed yet, from the front, it doesn't seem to have that shape I'm seeing on some of the guys here.

 

[SpallaPerfetta]

Thoughts on this MTM suit jacket? No complaints on the comfort but is there a way to clean up the rear sleeve bunching?