The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Jsm87]

Hello! I received a MTM sportcoat from Suitsupply and I would appreciate if you can give me some feedback on how can it be improved and how can I improve the fit for a possible future order, especially regarding shoulder slope. I'm mostly fine with the fit, what I don't like is the horizontal lines on the upper back and under the collar (collar pleating). I've read some older posts from Despos about what can cause it, tension on shoulder blades, square shoulders etc. but in my case I can't figure out what's causing it. I already reduced "collar height" by 0.5 cm and I wonder if I should have reduced it by 1 cm, but I've read that in some cases, this can make it worse. The lines are also slightly shorter in width, in my case. There seem to be some slight diagonal creases just above my glutes as well, I think is because of my hallow lower back.

I know that the pictures are not the best quality, but I hope you can still give me some feedback!

 

[ManuMICHEL]

Hello! I received a MTM sportcoat from Suitsupply and I would appreciate if you can give me some feedback on how can it be improved and how can I improve the fit for a possible future order, especially regarding shoulder slope. I'm mostly fine with the fit, what I don't like is the horizontal lines on the upper back and under the collar (collar pleating). I've read some older posts from Despos about what can cause it, tension on shoulder blades, square shoulders etc. but in my case I can't figure out what's causing it. I already reduced "collar height" by 0.5 cm and I wonder if I should have reduced it by 1 cm, but I've read that in some cases, this can make it worse. The lines are also slightly shorter in width, in my case. There seem to be some slight diagonal creases just above my glutes as well, I think is because of my hallow lower back.

I know that the pictures are not the best quality, but I hope you can still give me some feedback!

Hi! im an apprentice, so please take what im going to say with a grain of salt, but I see some other problems also with your jacket which might not be a problem to you, but ill point them out just in case:
For me, the sleeves (Particularly around the sleeve head) might be big on width (Too much fabric basically), and there is also worked fullness around the sleeve head which appear as almost pleats.
Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but your back seems a little bit too "big on width".
For the hollow upper back, I would let out the CB by 1/4 inch starting from where the wrinkles in your suit form, and (Also letting out the shoulder seam by 3/8 inch from where the neck and shoulder meet) kinda move the neck and shoulder point towards the new CB. (I hope im being clear), You should also work the extra fullness about 3/8 inch from about 1 inch below the neck point to about 1 inch before the shoulder "ends" (Basically, "between notches").
For the lower back, in which it seems that you have a "Pool of fabric", I would maybe add more sway from around 1/1.5 inch below your scye (or chest) line, to about 1 inch above the hip line.
I hope I was clear!

 

[Jsm87]

Hi! im an apprentice, so please take what im going to say with a grain of salt, but I see some other problems also with your jacket which might not be a problem to you, but ill point them out just in case:
For me, the sleeves (Particularly around the sleeve head) might be big on width (Too much fabric basically), and there is also worked fullness around the sleeve head which appear as almost pleats.
Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but your back seems a little bit too "big on width".
For the hollow upper back, I would let out the CB by 1/4 inch starting from where the wrinkles in your suit form, and (Also letting out the shoulder seam by 3/8 inch from where the neck and shoulder meet) kinda move the neck and shoulder point towards the new CB. (I hope im being clear), You should also work the extra fullness about 3/8 inch from about 1 inch below the neck point to about 1 inch before the shoulder "ends" (Basically, "between notches").
For the lower back, in which it seems that you have a "Pool of fabric", I would maybe add more sway from around 1/1.5 inch below your scye (or chest) line, to about 1 inch above the hip line.
I hope I was clear!

Thank you for your feedback!

Your observation about upper sleeve width is correct and yes, the shoulder is pleated. This is something I personally requested because of my round shoulder/biceps area. Basically, to achieve a straight line, I need either an extended shoulder or fullness in that area and I went with fullness in this case. It may not look 100% clean but I'm fine with it. I attached an image of another coat I tried several months ago where you can see that the upper arm muscles push out on the sleeve.

Regarding the upper back, I don't really feel it tight, so I don't know if my back is too wide for the jacket back width, but there is something going on with those horizontal wrinkles. The MTM maker that I use allow to increase both shoulder width and upper back width (which is at 15 cm down from back of collar). For a new jacket you suggest slightly increasing both of these measurements, right? What do you think about the shoulder slope, can it cause those wrinkles and the collar roll?

For the lower back, by "sway" you mean tapering it more from chest to waist? Or do you mean less taper?

Another thought: the waist of my jacket is already pretty suppressed yet, from the front, it doesn't seem to have that shape I'm seeing on some of the guys here.

 

[SpallaPerfetta]

Thoughts on this MTM suit jacket? No complaints on the comfort but is there a way to clean up the rear sleeve bunching?

 

[Martini_Man]

Hello everyone,

I would like to put a few questions to the experts on the forum, especially the tailors among them.

I have bought a RTW jacket where the sleeves could only be shortened from the bottom due to the beautiful shoulder finish with a "spalla camicia". Fortunately the jacket has no working buttonholes, but the shortening has reduced the sleeve vent from the original 11 cm (4.33 inch) to 7 cm (2.75 inch).

Is it possible for a skilled tailor to restore the sleeve vent to its original length?

If not, is a 7 cm (2.75 inch) vent still within proportions or does it just look "wrong"?

Finally, I have a question about the number of buttons: Due to the shortened length, I will probably only be able to add two of the original four buttons. How far apart should they be sewn on to give the most classic look?

Thanks a lot in advance and any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[loll8capital]

Oxxford tuxedo, eBay find. Is this salvageable through tailoring? I have a good tailor that I trust. My biggest concern is the length—it's 31 inches and I usually like suit jackets around 29.5. The buttonhole hits right at my bellybutton, but perhaps the pockets are too low if I were to shorten it?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

[owenshill]

FWIW, I had a good alterationist do extensive surgery on a great eBay tux, and it turned out great. I also had mine shortened by about an inch, and I was also worried about it. The jetted pockets seemed fine after the alterations. Your mileage may vary.

Consider having the vent closed while you're there having everything else tightened up. Makes a big difference in dinner jackets, IMHO.

 

[Skeem1]

Hi everyone,

I recently got a bespoke suit and really liked the result of it but I have noticed that there are creases in the back below the shoulders that are concerning. I'm trying to understand why this is the case, whether it is my bad posture or something that can be altered? Thank you for your comments in advance.

 

[Despos]

Hi everyone,

I recently got a bespoke suit and really liked the result of it but I have noticed that there are creases in the back below the shoulders that are concerning. I'm trying to understand why this is the case, whether it is my bad posture or something that can be altered? Thank you for your comments in advance.

View attachment 2293367

Shoulder and back are too big and wide. Best to remove the sleeves and recut the back. It’s not an easy alteration. You have a more prominent shoulder blade on the left side causing the diagonal fold of cloth from the high point on the blade to the armhole. Guessing you wanted more movement and the back was made larger. It’s possible to have both movement and a clean back.

 

[Definite3908]

Hey, everyone. I haven't bought a suit in a while. How is the fit of this suit, and what alterations need to be made regarding the back? Thanks.

 

[Raymond2002]

Hi all! Breakaway01 gave me some great advice and suggested I repost here:

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/luxire-jacket-home-try-on-fitting-advice.781533/#post-12039859

Any feedback you can give? Thank you!

 

[prdjan]

So I recently purchased my first jacket and it obviously is not the best fit. Would it be possible to do some alterations here or I would be better off if I just return the jacket?

 

[othertravel]

Hello all,

Here's my most recent Samuelsohn commission:

One thing I will change is the leg. There's about an inch to let out from the ankle - it's a bit too trim for my liking.

Would appreciate any thoughts/suggestions as MTM is an iterative process.

 

[MrAristocat]

Sorry for no photo without the jacket off. There are these small folds on the back of the thigh and at the bottom of the… well… bottom. How best to have this remedied? What should I ask my tailor to do? The trousers are a touch big on the hips but otherwise comfortable to my liking and whole-day office-sitting.