The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[dauster]

From the photo it looks like you have a long torso (if that is a regular size jacket). In that case you will not easily find an RTW jacket with the proper length. I am in a similar situation and went Orazio MTM. Wonderful experience, in particular if you get Orazio fitting you personally, and although I have since moved to bespoke (for stylistic reasons), the fit has been very good.

Well in this case Steve from GF would take my measurements for MTM. I heard that Orazio is too busy to take on existing bespoke customers...

 

[dauster]

Well in this case Steve from GF would take my measurements for MTM. I heard that Orazio is too busy to take on existing bespoke customers...

I guess I posted in the wrong thread and forgot about this one, anyway had a great experience with Steve from Gentlemen's Footwear today and commissioned a MTM Orazio sports jacket in a mohair/wool mix as well as a Vanacore shirt (fabric tbd) but hopefully in the style below. We worked off of the Orazio RTW jacket...

 

[usctrojans31]

Curious to see the end result. Whenever I tried Orazio, the sleeve pitch was woefully off for me, among others. That's a fairly solid baseline from RTW. Keep us posted.

 

[dauster]

Curious to see the end result. Whenever I tried Orazio, the sleeve pitch was woefully off for me, among others. That's a fairly solid baseline from RTW. Keep us posted.

Steve suggested to add about an 1.5 inch to the length of the RTW jacket, do you think that will be enough?

 

[papado]

Steve suggested to add about an 1.5 inch to the length of the RTW jacket, do you think that will be enough?

Should be fine; may be a tad long for ‘current’ fashion depending on your style but should work. Looks like a solid rtw base so hopefully it works out for you

 

[msanchez0125]

This is my first experience with a custom suit. The button stance is lower than I expected, and the jacket length is a lot longer than my other jackets. I think I stood up too straight when the measurements were being taken, as my tailor explained to me that more length is added in the front of the coat when someone has erect posture. I'm thinking of having the coat rebalanced by shortening the front more than the back.

How much can I take off the length in the front without ruining the balance? My concern is that the button stance is already on the low side, so any shortening may ruin the whole coat.

Thank you.

 

[Rimaarts]

Hello! Apologies about no picture! Might post later. Last year I bought a TM lewin jacket (yes, im a cheapskate and I think 80£ (discount from 140£) is a great value for money for item I don't wear often. (And it fits me 2x better than most other otr jackets) This year I discovered style forum and started obsessing about fit.
Now in almost every jacket I have one problem, I have to slouch my shoulders and round my back to get the fit as it should be. Quite a bit too much fabric on the back and quite not enough fabric on chest. Can that be fixed?

 

[JeanPaulSartor]

UPDATE: Had posted earlier in the thread (the last 3 shots are the "before" photos) and have since made several alterations to this M2M suit from BlackLapel (untapered hem and slimmed thighs, let out jacket waist, tightened side seam at chest, lowered collar).

I still have a few questions for the experts:

1) The jacket seems to fall better unbuttoned. Are we still too tight here and by how much? If so, should this be let out at the side seams or back seam?

2) I'm not sure why, but sometimes I'll see shoulder dimpling, other times not. The M2M folks had measured me in person and accounted for my sloping, forward shoulders, and asymmetry but perhaps not enough. What might be causing this?

 

[vim147]

Waist fluctuates 2 inches

My waist goes 2 inches up and down few times a year. Instead of buying multiple sized pants, is there some kind of alteration i can do for chinos/jeans ? Perhaps putting in darts or something.

I am handy with a sewing machine so i can do simple alterations myself. Any suggestions ?

 

[JoeBlack0]

Hello guys, I've been struggling in achieving a good fit in the seat area through mtm and don't know exactly how I could solve this . Anyone knows how to solve the wedgie? @Despos If you want to comment I would appreciate your valuable input
.

 

[thermals]

(x-post from black tie thread)

Guys,
I had to have Sid Mashburn alter my tux for a 2nd time recently due to some weight loss. I think it looks fine generally but am worried about the back / sleeves. Given that I spent about $2,200 on this buying a new one isn't an option at this point.

Obviously ignore the shirt and shoes as I won't be wearing that with my tux on my wedding day

Hopefully the feedback isn't too severe...have spent like $400+ in alterations thus far.

 

[Despos]

Hello guys, I've been struggling in achieving a good fit in the seat area through mtm and don't know exactly how I could solve this . Anyone knows how to solve the wedgie? @Despos If you want to comment I would appreciate your valuable input
. View attachment 1211948

Let out the crotch on these, doubt if there is enough cloth in the outlet for what you need. To get a better fit in future orders is very difficult. The “angles” of the pattern are out of line for your body type. Find a maker with a better balanced pattern. Know this advice isn’t very helpful but if the basic pattern isn’t good it’s very difficult to improve the fit by adjusting measurements. Cotton cloths are not very forgiving and won’t drape like wool.

 

[JoeBlack0]

Let out the crotch on these, doubt if there is enough cloth in the outlet for what you need. To get a better fit in future orders is very difficult. The “angles” of the pattern are out of line for your body type. Find a maker with a better balanced pattern. Know this advice isn’t very helpful but if the basic pattern isn’t good it’s very difficult to improve the fit by adjusting measurements. Cotton cloths are not very forgiving and won’t drape like wool.

Thank you for the honest response. Unfortunately this is a problem that I usually have across brands so will have to discuss it with the tailor. In order to solve the folds beneath the seat would it be correct to shorten the back rise? Again thank you for your time

 

[Despos]

Most of the pulling you see now is from the crotch being too short. You could let these out 1.5” and see a big improvement. That would release the “wedge” and allow the cloth to move upwards cleaning up the pulling. Lowering the back is part of the solution but not entirely and not alone. The trouser seat curve has to be adjusted to match the curve and depth of your seat and this needs to relate to the back height. If the back panel and front panel were balanced in relation to each other the back height wouldn’t matter. That is the key to cleaning the wrinkles under the seat. That is also the DNA of a trouser pattern. Have you ever tried on a trouser made by Brioni? They cut a very straight trouser that rectifies this issue.
Is this online or are you working with someone? How do they want to address this?

 

[JoeBlack0]

Most of the pulling you see now is from the crotch being too short. You could let these out 1.5” and see a big improvement. That would release the “wedge” and allow the cloth to move upwards cleaning up the pulling. Lowering the back is part of the solution but not entirely and not alone. The trouser seat curve has to be adjusted to match the curve and depth of your seat and this needs to relate to the back height. If the back panel and front panel were balanced in relation to each other the back height wouldn’t matter. That is the key to cleaning the wrinkles under the seat. That is also the DNA of a trouser pattern. Have you ever tried on a trouser made by Brioni? They cut a very straight trouser that rectifies this issue.
Is this online or are you working with someone? How do they want to address this?

It’s presential mtm and I think they can adjust for some of your suggestions, however the sale assistant knowledge in fittings it’s a little bit lacking in this regard and I wanted a second opinion. I haven’t brought them the trousers yet so I don’t know their take on the problem. Just to be sure, when you mention lenghtening the crotch you are refereing to this right?