The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[1up]

X-post from the tailor thread..

I had a tuxedo dinner jacket made, I tried a sample my tailor had in navy blue and thought the fit was great, but wanted it made in black.

It’s arrived a bit baggier and needs some alterations, other than the following, what should I ask to be adjusted to mimic the fit of the navy jacket? I hope it can be achieved..

- shorten the jacket slightly
- slim the sleeves (from elbow down)
- take it in the body / suppress the waist
- fix the collar roll (can’t see the back)

Don’t worry about the pants, they are far too short and because of that they appear overly tapered (they are not)

 

[NorwRichard]

We are trying to up the black tie game in Norway by hosting some parties couple times a year. Fourth time will be in February, number of participants has gone from 16 to 40 people. lasera_norway on IG

 

[ValidusLA]

Divij has my new 4x1 in Harrisons barathea ready, but I can't make it down to Costa Mesa for final for a couple weeks. Very excited.

 

[gimpwiz]

X-post from the tailor thread..

I had a tuxedo dinner jacket made, I tried a sample my tailor had in navy blue and thought the fit was great, but wanted it made in black.

View attachment 1985633

It’s arrived a bit baggier and needs some alterations, other than the following, what should I ask to be adjusted to mimic the fit of the navy jacket? I hope it can be achieved..

View attachment 1985635

- shorten the jacket slightly
- slim the sleeves (from elbow down)
- take it in the body / suppress the waist
- fix the collar roll (can’t see the back)

Don’t worry about the pants, they are far too short and because of that they appear overly tapered (they are not)

I feel like I really would want to see photos taken by someone else. There's angles here such that I can't tell if something needs fixing or is odd, or if it's just because you're using a wide angle lens at a short distance and tilted against the plane of the mirror. Front, back, both sides, taken by someone else...

 

[gimpwiz]

We are trying to up the black tie game in Norway by hosting some parties couple times a year. Fourth time will be in February, number of participants has gone from 16 to 40 people. lasera_norway on IG
View attachment 1985765

Hell yeah, my man with the ivory SBPL! Would have loved to see non-white studs, but you can't have it all.

 

[1up]

I feel like I really would want to see photos taken by someone else. There's angles here such that I can't tell if something needs fixing or is odd, or if it's just because you're using a wide angle lens at a short distance and tilted against the plane of the mirror. Front, back, both sides, taken by someone else...

Okay I will do that on Monday after I go for my next fitting, although I won’t have the navy one to compare against as it’s since been sold.

Anything that stands out to you, within the pictures you can see?

 

[brax]

Ivory and black on the hottest day of the year, so far.
View attachment 1983663
View attachment 1983665

Is this your H&S wool tuxedo?

 

[Andy57]

Is this your H&S wool tuxedo?

Yes, sir.

 

[NorwRichard]

Hell yeah, my man with the ivory SBPL! Would have loved to see non-white studs, but you can't have it all.

That’s me! I find that white studs balance the outfit better than with black studs especially when doing ivory DJ. The DJ is a vintage Fallan&Harvey find

 

[gimpwiz]

Looking good my man. Always great to get a good find.

I've given some amount of thought to my own studs and links. I own black links, and I own those black-white reversible studs, both Kent Wang. Quite nice. But for an ivory tux, I am not sure if black would be my favorite, same as white. It sometimes feels like white disappears, and black either stands out too much or looks like a button, to some extent. I do prefer black though, if the options are plain-white and plain-black. (Please do not read any criticism into this feeling, I am not criticizing anyone )

Going way the hell back, Foo, who started this thread, wore ... garnet studs? I quite like those. Or at least the idea of those. I might look into something like that.

I have seen all manner of vintage ones with MOP whites and blacks set into something to give them more separation, which I also like in theory, but none of the ones I saw here really spoke to me.

 

[ValidusLA]

For those of you looking for more stud sets. Codis Maya just opened up their web shop yesterday for the first time in almost 2 years. Roshini Aluwihare makes awesome studs and cufflinks.

You can find her stuff at Armoury, Noos, Caroll + Company (which weirdly exists again). Its great.

 

[NorwRichard]

Looking good my man. Always great to get a good find.

I've given some amount of thought to my own studs and links. I own black links, and I own those black-white reversible studs, both Kent Wang. Quite nice. But for an ivory tux, I am not sure if black would be my favorite, same as white. It sometimes feels like white disappears, and black either stands out too much or looks like a button, to some extent. I do prefer black though, if the options are plain-white and plain-black. (Please do not read any criticism into this feeling, I am not criticizing anyone )

Going way the hell back, Foo, who started this thread, wore ... garnet studs? I quite like those. Or at least the idea of those. I might look into something like that.

I have seen all manner of vintage ones with MOP whites and blacks set into something to give them more separation, which I also like in theory, but none of the ones I saw here really spoke to me.

No criticism taken What are we here for if not to have fruitful and fun discussions.

Yes, I have been considering some "more interesting" studs in the past, but have not really been able to find something that got me over! I have seen the ones at Codis Maya though Codis Maya has alot of great stuff.

I read somewhere that Tom Ford collects vintage studs, he has a lot of what I would call "more interesting" studs. ha..

 

[hpreston]

I ordered a stud set in smoked MOP from Samuel Gassmann, to complement a pair of vintage MOP cufflinks I already owned.

Samuel Gassmann Paris - Cufflinks specialist

Specialist in cufflinks since 2009, Samuel Gassmann is recognized worldwide. Designer and craftsman for 10 years.

samuelgassmann.com

 

[brax]

Looking good my man. Always great to get a good find.

I've given some amount of thought to my own studs and links. I own black links, and I own those black-white reversible studs, both Kent Wang. Quite nice. But for an ivory tux, I am not sure if black would be my favorite, same as white. It sometimes feels like white disappears, and black either stands out too much or looks like a button, to some extent. I do prefer black though, if the options are plain-white and plain-black. (Please do not read any criticism into this feeling, I am not criticizing anyone )

Going way the hell back, Foo, who started this thread, wore ... garnet studs? I quite like those. Or at least the idea of those. I might look into something like that.

I have seen all manner of vintage ones with MOP whites and blacks set into something to give them more separation, which I also like in theory, but none of the ones I saw here really spoke to me.

Smoked MOP may be the right option here.
Edit: Beaten to the punch by hpreston.

 

[Jerkstore]

I’ve become quite shocked how in the many pics I see of people in “tuxedos” for a wedding, hardly anyone wears a Cummerbund or waistcoat and it just looks bad to me. I know this probably isn’t new, but I’m just amazed how unfinished it looks and how people seem to actively avoid it to their detriment. The boys in this thread schooled me right and I am grateful for the wisdom. This should be common knowledge.