The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[gimpwiz]

David, looking good! Very subtle. I am sure you will love the combo.

Relatedly, I wanted to see what all the fuss was about so I picked up a set of Thurston braces for fifty bucks. https://www.ebay.com/itm/285001083335 Obviously less than a week later, Spoo's LuxeSwap has two sets go on sale, both sell for quite a bit less than fifty bucks. Such is life.

Anyways, the Thurston ones are really nice. I am a huge fan. But now I'm wondering how much I want the formal braces to complement them, given the theory that nobody will see them anyways. How much do I really want to spend another $120 (incl tax and shipping)? https://www.ebay.com/itm/374445243971 I am sure that as always, some will say that I'd be a fool not to, others will say nobody will see them so who cares. I'm leaning towards the latter, I must admit.

 

[DavidJordan]

David, looking good! Very subtle. I am sure you will love the combo.

Relatedly, I wanted to see what all the fuss was about so I picked up a set of Thurston braces for fifty bucks. https://www.ebay.com/itm/285001083335 Obviously less than a week later, Spoo's LuxeSwap has two sets go on sale, both sell for quite a bit less than fifty bucks. Such is life.

Anyways, the Thurston ones are really nice. I am a huge fan. But now I'm wondering how much I want the formal braces to complement them, given the theory that nobody will see them anyways. How much do I really want to spend another $120 (incl tax and shipping)? https://www.ebay.com/itm/374445243971 I am sure that as always, some will say that I'd be a fool not to, others will say nobody will see them so who cares. I'm leaning towards the latter, I must admit.

Thank you Gimpwiz!

 

[The Chai]

Haha I have been focusing more on sports coats and tweeds lately but will get back in the dinner suit customs soon. Saw a pink tonik cloth and need to get some stuff remade as I've grown out of IT!

 

[etostano]

David, looking good! Very subtle. I am sure you will love the combo.

Relatedly, I wanted to see what all the fuss was about so I picked up a set of Thurston braces for fifty bucks. https://www.ebay.com/itm/285001083335 Obviously less than a week later, Spoo's LuxeSwap has two sets go on sale, both sell for quite a bit less than fifty bucks. Such is life.

Anyways, the Thurston ones are really nice. I am a huge fan. But now I'm wondering how much I want the formal braces to complement them, given the theory that nobody will see them anyways. How much do I really want to spend another $120 (incl tax and shipping)? https://www.ebay.com/itm/374445243971 I am sure that as always, some will say that I'd be a fool not to, others will say nobody will see them so who cares. I'm leaning towards the latter, I must admit.

No one will see them, but IMO the formal version with fabric ends is much more comfortable than the standard leather. Probably less of an issue if you don't have a gut but YMMV

 

[Andy57]

No one will see them, but IMO the formal version with fabric ends is much more comfortable than the standard leather. Probably less of an issue if you don't have a gut but YMMV

I think this is generally true. I prefer fabric ends over leather.

 

[Andy57]

Perhaps the wrong thread, but I wanted to get the opinions of the learned here. I'm putting together a morning suit on a budget. Sourced a jacket and trousers, but struggling to find a waistcoat. Found 2 decent options finally, but was wondering if there was a style that was more proper or preferred. View attachment 1885651 View attachment 1885653

For my money, the waistcoat on the model is preferable.

 

[bbqthis]

For my money, the waistcoat on the model is preferable.

Good enough for me. Cheers Andy. Best.

 

[gimpwiz]

Haha I have been focusing more on sports coats and tweeds lately but will get back in the dinner suit customs soon. Saw a pink tonik cloth and need to get some stuff remade as I've grown out of IT!

Are you posting your other commissions somewhere on SF?

No one will see them, but IMO the formal version with fabric ends is much more comfortable than the standard leather. Probably less of an issue if you don't have a gut but YMMV

Thanks for the feedback. I have no gut, more or less. As it so happens, I recently got some trousers whose measurements I didn't read quite carefully, and are 17.5" waist and thus ~1-1.5" wider than my usual. I think Andy put it something like "without suspenders, they would fall to my ankles." In a way, it's almost like a test run for tux trousers cut for braces, since I never wore any so airy before. I did not feel that the leather was uncomfortable. In fact, having not worn suspenders before, I was shocked by how comfortable a pair of trousers so much wider than my usual fit were, coupled with suspenders. They're also significantly wider in the legs than my usual fit(ted fit), which again makes it feel like a bit of a test run - so far so good! However --

I think this is generally true. I prefer fabric ends over leather.

Well, that may well just be good enough for me, too, to get a set with the fabric ends.

 

[NakedYoga]

Haha I have been focusing more on sports coats and tweeds lately but will get back in the dinner suit customs soon. Saw a pink tonik cloth and need to get some stuff remade as I've grown out of IT!

The commissions you posted in this thread were always pretty interesting. Are you posting tweed or other commissions elsewhere?

 

[jrdadbod]

Hi all, I am a lurker on this thread, and firstly want to thank you all for posting and commenting over the years. It has been informative and a fun reprieve from work...

Anyway like many others in the black tie thread, I am getting married and have ordered a MTM tuxedo from atelier munro. I went with midnight blue (almost black) jacket and trousers in Loro piana wool, with midnight blue satin peaked lapels. I mostly like classic styling, and thought the midnight blue offers a bit of flair without breaking tradition.

I do not yet have a shirt, and I am seeking some advice around styling.
1) bib vs. pleated vs. pique vs. plain with studs vs. hidden button placket... I am not really sure where to start here. I am interested in pique or hidden buttons because I feel they look cleaner
2) color... white is the obvious choice here, but would ivory come off as too casual or unusual?

And for shoes, I am planning on sticking with black leather, although I am intrigued by velvet. Would love any recommendations in the $500 ish price range.

Thank you! I'll make sure to post a picture of the full outfit

 

[gimpwiz]

@jrdadbod: (funny username):

1) Your choice. What do you think looks best? Pique bib with studs is classic, pleated bib with studs is classic-ish, fly front with no bib is a distinct look you might like, plain front with studs (often made/sold with a button strip) is probably the only one that's versatile enough to be worn with studs for black tie, with buttons without black tie, etc. All are acceptable. Check out photos and see what you like best, then figure out where you can buy it, because some of these are very difficult to find off-the-rack (or, if they're not a perfect fit, after adding in tailoring, might cost more than having them made bespoke.) Consider also, if not fly-front, how many studs you want showing.

2) White shirt. Just white. Not off-white or near-white or ivory. Don't play around with this one until/unless you don't have to ask because you know what's up.

Naturally your shirt will have french cuffs (double cuffs), yes? And I assume the turn-down collar, not the wing collar. (If you go wing collar, you'll want the collar generous, detachable, and starched to hell, probably paired with a pique bib.)

 

[jrdadbod]

@jrdadbod: (funny username):

1) Your choice. What do you think looks best? Pique bib with studs is classic, pleated bib with studs is classic-ish, fly front with no bib is a distinct look you might like, plain front with studs (often made/sold with a button strip) is probably the only one that's versatile enough to be worn with studs for black tie, with buttons without black tie, etc. All are acceptable. Check out photos and see what you like best, then figure out where you can buy it, because some of these are very difficult to find off-the-rack (or, if they're not a perfect fit, after adding in tailoring, might cost more than having them made bespoke.) Consider also, if not fly-front, how many studs you want showing.

2) White shirt. Just white. Not off-white or near-white or ivory. Don't play around with this one until/unless you don't have to ask because you know what's up.

Naturally your shirt will have french cuffs (double cuffs), yes? And I assume the turn-down collar, not the wing collar. (If you go wing collar, you'll want the collar generous, detachable, and starched to hell, probably paired with a pique bib.)

Thank you! Super helpful. I'll take your word for it on the white shirt. And I'm definitely going with french cuffs and a turn-down collar.

 

[ld111134]

My wife and i attended a fundraiser for Equality Illinois, a powerful advocate for the rights of LGBTQ+ people in Illinois.

I went with a traditional peak lapel dinner jacket and a pleated formal shirt, but I mixed it up with a double-breasted dove grey waistcoat. The unconventional look was appropriate for this event.

• Dinner jacket and trousers: Christian Dior Monsieur
• Linen pocket square and bow tie: Brooks Brothers.
• Waistcoat: Tom Sawyer Waistcoats
• Pleated dinner shirt: Joseph Abboud
• Studs and cuff links: Hawes & Curtis
• Patent leather pumps: Merlutti

BTW, my lovely wife is wearing a Molly Moorkamp dress with Emila Wickstead shoes.

 

[Andy57]

Hi all, I am a lurker on this thread, and firstly want to thank you all for posting and commenting over the years. It has been informative and a fun reprieve from work...

Anyway like many others in the black tie thread, I am getting married and have ordered a MTM tuxedo from atelier munro. I went with midnight blue (almost black) jacket and trousers in Loro piana wool, with midnight blue satin peaked lapels. I mostly like classic styling, and thought the midnight blue offers a bit of flair without breaking tradition.

I do not yet have a shirt, and I am seeking some advice around styling.
1) bib vs. pleated vs. pique vs. plain with studs vs. hidden button placket... I am not really sure where to start here. I am interested in pique or hidden buttons because I feel they look cleaner
2) color... white is the obvious choice here, but would ivory come off as too casual or unusual?

And for shoes, I am planning on sticking with black leather, although I am intrigued by velvet. Would love any recommendations in the $500 ish price range.

Thank you! I'll make sure to post a picture of the full outfit

The bib is simply the front of the shirt. It can be pleated or made from marcella (pique). If the shirt does not have a covered placket you ought to use studs otherwise it just looks like a regular shirt. A covered placket is (to my eye) a kind of throwback to the sixties look, which can be interesting.

As stated earlier, go with white. Colors that are almost white just look dingy. And please don't forget your waist covering.

 

[hpreston]

I am now on the hunt for a pleated front formal shirt with turndown collar. I have a pique front shirt, but am looking for the slightly less formal pleats to go with this jacket (please note, was a quick try on after I picked it up from the tailors, so please ignore the rollneck and flannel trou)

Any advice in who makes a decent pleated front formal shirt?

Edited to add: I know just about every Mens ware brand sells something. Looking for a decent classic shirt, that maybe is under $400 (preferably less)