The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[archibaldleach]

Guy on the right looks better.

 

[Van Veen]

The guy in the left's jacket is also ridiculously long, which I guess was a trend then.

 

[poorsod]

I picked up a cream colored silk formal shirt from Budd. The cloth is thick and densely woven and lacks the cold silky smoothness of the typical silk shirt. I think it wears well for the winter, but too hot for other climes.

The cream color is not particularly noticeable at night.

 

[hirschlederne]



Nice moiré silk waistcoat. Good idea, really.

 

[Van Veen]



Nice moiré silk waistcoat. Good idea, really.

Yeah, I thought the same thing. If I ever get one made up, that's definitely a contender.

 

[dwlbu]

Question:

I currently use my black Oxford cap toes as my black tie shoes. I have an event coming up this spring and I'm toying with the idea of getting some new shoes to go with my tuxedo. Obviously patent oxfords would be my first inclination. However, I've seen pictures of patent shoes from good quality producers that look susceptible to extreme creasing after a few wears, which I think looks sloppy. (Maybe they were improperly cared for and my fears are unwarranted?)

It makes me almost want to just go for a pair of normal calfskin whole cut oxfords instead and give them a good wax shining.

Tossing aside the notion that I could wear the calfskin wholecut oxfords in a business setting(I already have black cap toes that I don't wear often), and given a clean slate to start from -would you choose whole cut oxfords in normal leather or go the patent oxford route?

 

[bdavro23]

Question:

I currently use my black Oxford cap toes as my black tie shoes. I have an event coming up this spring and I'm toying with the idea of getting some new shoes to go with my tuxedo. Obviously patent oxfords would be my first inclination. However, I've seen pictures of patent shoes from good quality producers that look susceptible to extreme creasing after a few wears, which I think looks sloppy. (Maybe they were improperly cared for and my fears are unwarranted?)

It makes me almost want to just go for a pair of normal calfskin whole cut oxfords instead and give them a good wax shining.

Tossing aside the notion that I could wear the calfskin wholecut oxfords in a business setting(I already have black cap toes that I don't wear often), and given a clean slate to start from -would you choose whole cut oxfords in normal leather or go the patent oxford route?

I am not a fan of patent. It doesnt seem to matter who the maker is, they usually look cheap to me. I would go the wholecut calf route personally.

 

[RaggedyDandy]

Question:

I currently use my black Oxford cap toes as my black tie shoes. I have an event coming up this spring and I'm toying with the idea of getting some new shoes to go with my tuxedo. Obviously patent oxfords would be my first inclination. However, I've seen pictures of patent shoes from good quality producers that look susceptible to extreme creasing after a few wears, which I think looks sloppy. (Maybe they were improperly cared for and my fears are unwarranted?)

It makes me almost want to just go for a pair of normal calfskin whole cut oxfords instead and give them a good wax shining.

Tossing aside the notion that I could wear the calfskin wholecut oxfords in a business setting(I already have black cap toes that I don't wear often), and given a clean slate to start from -would you choose whole cut oxfords in normal leather or go the patent oxford route?

I suppose individual circumstances and preferences play into it. I can't/won't justify a shoe which will only be worn 1-2x per year, so since they are a perfectly acceptable option, I'm going the wholecut oxford route. I like the versatility, and am not overly fond of patent.

And yes, I am fully aware of the cognitive dissonance of making this decision for my owned black tie rig

 

[Andy57]

Question:

Tossing aside the notion that I could wear the calfskin wholecut oxfords in a business setting(I already have black cap toes that I don't wear often), and given a clean slate to start from -would you choose whole cut oxfords in normal leather or go the patent oxford route?

Patent.

 

[culverwood]

Not patent

 

[Krish the Fish]

I like (and own) velvet slippers for my black tie ensemble. I really do not like patent, and like the look of an otherwise traditional tuxedo (peaked lapels, satin, matching cummerbund and bow tie, studs on Marcella bib shirt and matching cufflinks, etc.) with velvet slippers and black thin wool or silk socks

 

[dwlbu]

I like (and own) velvet slippers for my black tie ensemble. I really do not like patent, and like the look of an otherwise traditional tuxedo (peaked lapels, satin, matching cummerbund and bow tie, studs on Marcella bib shirt and matching cufflinks, etc.) with velvet slippers and black thin wool or silk socks

I can appreciate this, but lace-ups are more my personal style. Plus my tux pants are hemmed for shoes and they may be a touch short in length with pumps/slippers, and I don't really feel like getting my pants re-hemmed.

 

[tbrock]

Another vote for wholecut calfskin shoes. If I did it again, that's what I'd get, as they can obviously be mirror shined for black tie or worn formally for business.

I own and have nothing against patent oxfords however. If money was no object I would have pumps as made by John Lobb for such occasions.

 

[Krish the Fish]

I can completely understand that. Just wanted to throw in my $0.02 to a budding discussion!

Given the options you are between, if you feel that you'd wear them outside a black tie rig, I'd go with the black calf wholecuts and then just shine them up to a very high shine for black tie applications. Otherwise, if the black wholecut won't make your shoe rotation, I'd go patent. If your only times to wear the shoe is for black tie, might as well go for the "appropriate" shoe for the occasion

 

[tbrock]

I picked up a cream colored silk formal shirt from Budd. The cloth is thick and densely woven and lacks the cold silky smoothness of the typical silk shirt. I think it wears well for the winter, but too hot for other climes.



The cream color is not particularly noticeable at night.

Big fan of Budd. Beautiful shop. I take it you would wear this with studs, as is possible on their shirts? Not sure about exposed buttons on a shirt for black tie.