The Rubinacci Thread.

[luk-cha]

come on you dont think he paid for that do you????

Why not?

i would not - would you?

look at all the great examples of R's work, this has to be the worse i have ever seen

 

[luk-cha]

come on you dont think he paid for that do you????

i was just talking, if one of us mortals would be in this situation. not mr. wonderful, sure.

yes i agree! gone with the wind!

 

[Maccimus]

Looks like he is pregnant. Maybe it is just the bad picture-taking skill.

 

[apropos]



The Permanent Style guy finished his Rubinacci jacket. I like the material. Funny, they did the phantom pockets like Manton's Solito. I guess this is quite common with unlined jackets.

Very nice material, but TBH it looks more like a tweedydon MC:FS closeout special than a E3500 bespoke jacket. The pocket is a nice idea in theory but the placement has rendered the final result a shambles - it looks like he is wearing a shortened jacket. I just can't help but return to the thought that this is such a waste of vintage cashmere the likes of which may never be seen again. What a waste.

 

[forex]

^^ I agree, the jacket is very unflattering but then I haven't seen him in anything that makes him look good. The guy needs more structured stuff and you'd think that Rubinacci would know that.

 

[apropos]

I thought his Poole DB looked good, despite the howls here on SF.

Re: this Rubinacci, It's also a pity because it looked like it was shaping up to be a great piece in this earlier photo at a fitting:



Then again I guess we should all keep in back of our minds the limitations of a single, static photo when evaluating fits.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



Then again I guess we should all keep in back of our minds the limitations of a single, static photo when evaluating fits.

Seriously, some real jump the gun assholes on here.

 

[Redwoood]

looks fine to me, I think some people let their personal attitudes or prejudices guide their judgements.

My feeling is the jacket could use 1-2cm more length, and the pockets are..uh..probably exactly where he wanted them.
Otherwise it fits well for what it is. I think he's torquing his upper body in the other picture, so it looks like the jacket's not centred. Can't imagine Rubi not spotting such an obvious flaw otherwise.
If I saw him passing by on the street, I would think 'It may not be entirely my cup of tea, but what a well-fitting jacket'.

 

[Manton]

Well, my .02.

I don't like the pockets. Those things should be left to the duke of Windsor and Mariano should have saved him from that. I have to assume that the client insisted. Oh well.

Overall I think if you could change two things this jacket would be very nice. First, the client is a little "hippy" (not in the Santa Cruz sense) and to balance that out I would have given him more shoulder extension. Second, I wish the quarters were a little more open, like a typical Rubinacci or Naples coat. I wonder if the client asked for them closed. Looking at his blog, he seems to get everything with quite closed quarters. That cotton suit is a striking example.

Both of those changes would make him look less "hippy" and more balanced. The coat fits fine and otherwise looks nice.

 

[bengal-stripe]

I do agree about the “hippyness” and I believe the pockets and particular the extra-deep flaps (which the customer apparently demanded) do add a few extra pounds onto the hips. As Simon has told us frequently in his blog, he has what tailors call politely “a prominent seat” (“big bum” to you and me).

Whoever is to blame, client or tailoring firm, it's a case where the wrongly chosen design details add to the already pear-shaped figure.

 

[fritzl]



looks fine to me, I think some people let their personal attitudes or prejudices guide their judgements.

it's not like it's something from a yard sale?

 

[Redwoood]



it's not like it's something from a yard sale?

hmm... no. It's clearly bespoke, made for the wearer, very difficult to get at your average yard sale.

 

[fritzl]



hmm... no. It's clearly bespoke, made for the wearer, very difficult to get at your average yard sale.

hmmh, interestin pov.

 

[scruff]

Less lapel belly I think would give the appearance of a stronger/wider chest (offsetting the hippiness).

 

[Gdot]



Less lapel belly I think would give the appearance of a stronger/wider chest (offsetting the hippiness).

+1

If you go back and look at the lapel shape during the fitting the whole thing works much better - in my opinion it is precisely because of the strength of the lapel in the photo of the fitting.

I still wonder if additional pics might make everyone's opinion more favorable. (hoping) That photo just doesn't work at all for me.