The Overcoat Thread

[DorianGreen]

There is another value to a down parka. It's likely to weigh less than wool or fur for similar insulation value. It's also nice if you like the Stay Puft® look.

I think that nobody will question the practicality of a down coat, and it will go somehow with casual wear, but for classic menswear you definitely need a traditional overcoat.

And no, I don't like the Stay Puft look.

 

[bjhofkin]

I think that nobody will question the practicality of a down coat, and it will go somehow with casual wear, but for classic menswear you definitely need a traditional overcoat.

And no, I don't like the Stay Puft look.

I agree down is a challenge with tailoring, and I do generally avoid it.

But it doesn't "go somehow with casual wear" – it goes GREAT with casual wear (if it's the right down coat).

And if you want to say that this thread is, after all, in the *Classic* Menswear forum, and hence that down doesn't belong, I suppose that's fine – but I think you're introducing a degree of rigidity/dogmatism that frankly doesn't belong in a style conversation at all.

 

[spacenegroes]

After all the umming and ahhing, plenty of time spent on the Cordings website, I went with the S&M Liberty Coat in the end. Very happy with it. Yes, it could be a bit longer, and the sleeves could be another inch longer, but overall I can't imagine a better option for $600.

I almost went with the Ulster, until on a whim I checked with S&M CS and they let me know that their Ulster doesn't button up all the way (as in, fold the lapels straight and treat it like a 19th century coat).

Hey all, I've moved to a cold place recently and need a winter overcoat. Really never paid much attention to them before, so I'm not sure what style really gives me what I want. Hoping for some advice.

• I'm hoping to mostly wear it open/unbuttoned, with the collar up (but obviously sometimes will have to close it up) as I really love the look of a big upright collar.
• I never wear suits, only a few times a year, and sport coats also infrequently. So most of the time I'll be wearing it over chunky wool sweaters in earth tones, flecked/donegal, and textured navy. Would want to be able to wear it with jeans, corduroy trousers, wool trousers. As such, I'm looking for something more casual.
• I'm probably wanting a drapier cut rather than a slim fit. Something that kind of has that big flowy feel, sort of like what trenches do, rather than a refined minimalist with straight lines. (Hence also wanting to wear it mostly open.)

S&M just came out with a bunch for the season. Intrigued by the Ulster, the Liberty Coat (what is a liberty coat anyway? I couldn't google it), and the Polo (though I'm worried the roped shoulders make it look too formal). What would suit my preferences above the best?

 

[comrade]

Global Warming not withstanding, a freighter is stuck in Lake Erie between the US and Canada. Maybe
that is one of the reasons that O'Connells (Buffalo N.Y.) has such an extensive collection of overcoats.

 

[rob g]

Nice was this on ebay? I may have been watching that one or something similar. Glad someone here grabbed it if so.

Yes, Ebay. There was no size marked on it but the seller had it listed as a 40 and their measurements were accurate. I've seen a lot of these on Ebay, but this is the first one that I really liked all the details, and the camel hair is in amazing condition. If I were designing my dream coat I would maybe make the collar larger, but that's a nitpick and I'm loving it.

 

[rob g]

I believe one of the posters on the last page mentioned the brand. They're a fairly common sight in Toronto (where I'm from).

If you find a modern parka made without synthetics, let me know. Most of the best ones combine some kind of syntehtic, water-resistant shell with down filling, and for good reason: it makes for a good wind breaker and keeps you toasty in high winds.

I never said that parkas were unstylish. I was surprised at the temperatures at which people would employ them, that's all. Because I personally limit synthetics in my life, I had one or two other possibilities that I thought were worth mentioning in case other members didn't know.

In NYC, Manhattan especially, I see people wearing their Canada Goose parka on the first 50F day in Autumn. Then the first 50F day in spring they're out in shorts and a tank top going for a run or to a $50 spin class.

 

[MrBlues]

I quite like this Susu coat, however, it has 1% elastane. I’m concerned it won’t hold up well over time as the elastane breaks down. Is this a valid concern?

Black Herringbone Belted Overcoat in Wool Cashmere Blend | SUITSUPPLY | SUITSUPPLY Canada

Shop the Black Herringbone Belted Overcoat in Wool Cashmere Blend at Suitsupply. Enjoy FREE delivery and returns on all orders.

suitsupply.com

I’ve been searching for similar overcoats but have come up empty thus far.

Criteria: Belted, slanted pockets, inset or raglan sleeves, knee length, dark navy/charcoal/black, 100% wool/cashmere blend or 100% wool, “pop-able” collar that stays up, horn buttons

Cheers

 

[clee1982]

Why would you think elastic would break down? They’re not even biodegradable in the first place, you think it will loose its performance properties over time (whatever reason they add them in the first place for)

 

[symphvaria]

Why would you think elastic would break down? They’re not even biodegradable in the first place, you think it will loose its performance properties over time (whatever reason they add them in the first place for)

I’ve heard that elastane loses its elasticity over time and just becomes droopy. Doesn’t sound very appealing to me.

 

[slows2k]

After all the umming and ahhing, plenty of time spent on the Cordings website, I went with the S&M Liberty Coat in the end. Very happy with it. Yes, it could be a bit longer, and the sleeves could be another inch longer, but overall I can't imagine a better option for $600.

I almost went with the Ulster, until on a whim I checked with S&M CS and they let me know that their Ulster doesn't button up all the way (as in, fold the lapels straight and treat it like a 19th century coat).



View attachment 2320547

I honestly think that looks pretty great. The collar looks better here in person than it does in the product shots. It's very, very close to the Drake's balmacaan aesthetic. If they had one of these in navy, I might've picked it up after seeing this.

 

[clee1982]

I’ve heard that elastane loses its elasticity over time and just becomes droopy. Doesn’t sound very appealing to me.

Hum, I don’t think I have that issue on sweatpants can’t imagine outwear running into issue given how infrequent it will be won

 

[jko]

I quite like this Susu coat, however, it has 1% elastane. I’m concerned it won’t hold up well over time as the elastane breaks down. Is this a valid concern?

Black Herringbone Belted Overcoat in Wool Cashmere Blend | SUITSUPPLY | SUITSUPPLY Canada

Shop the Black Herringbone Belted Overcoat in Wool Cashmere Blend at Suitsupply. Enjoy FREE delivery and returns on all orders.

suitsupply.com

I’ve been searching for similar overcoats but have come up empty thus far.

Criteria: Belted, slanted pockets, inset or raglan sleeves, knee length, dark navy/charcoal/black, 100% wool/cashmere blend or 100% wool, “pop-able” collar that stays up, horn buttons

Cheers

Have you seen this?

Black Virgin Wool Raglan Coat

Elevate your winter wardrobe with our take on the classic Raglan Coat, meticulously crafted from a luxurious virgin wool-cashmere blend sourced from Japan's prestigious Le Palais mill. The coat's slightly extended length offers a chic silhouette. The coat features a raglan shoulder design...

grandlemar.com

 

[MrBlues]

Have you seen this?

Black Virgin Wool Raglan Coat

Elevate your winter wardrobe with our take on the classic Raglan Coat, meticulously crafted from a luxurious virgin wool-cashmere blend sourced from Japan's prestigious Le Palais mill. The coat's slightly extended length offers a chic silhouette. The coat features a raglan shoulder design...

grandlemar.com

Darn, I did not see this. I love it, but it’s sold out in my size (44). Thank you, I’ll keep an eye out

 

[St1X]

I quite like this Susu coat, however, it has 1% elastane. I’m concerned it won’t hold up well over time as the elastane breaks down. Is this a valid concern?

Black Herringbone Belted Overcoat in Wool Cashmere Blend | SUITSUPPLY | SUITSUPPLY Canada

Shop the Black Herringbone Belted Overcoat in Wool Cashmere Blend at Suitsupply. Enjoy FREE delivery and returns on all orders.

suitsupply.com

I’ve been searching for similar overcoats but have come up empty thus far.

Criteria: Belted, slanted pockets, inset or raglan sleeves, knee length, dark navy/charcoal/black, 100% wool/cashmere blend or 100% wool, “pop-able” collar that stays up, horn buttons

Cheers

I wouldn't be worried about that 1%
I had jeans with 2% of elastane and I wore them for years and washed a lot before elastane started to break up. I don't think it'll ever happen with a coat

 

[St1X]

Darn, I did not see this. I love it, but it’s sold out in my size (44). Thank you, I’ll keep an eye out

You can reach out to them and get it MTO. The up charge was 50$ when I asked about a coat that was sold out in my size.