The Overcoat Thread

[bjhofkin]

That's a wonderful coat. It looks like the bold-patterned Balmacaan my friend called his Hadrian's
Wall" coat because he wore it when he toured Hadrian's Wall some 30 years ago. His commitment
to traditional clothing can be summed up in his statement at the time, "No Thinsulate for me"
This was in Chicago where winter is "real" and down and/or Thinsulate is an easy choice.

Let me tell you something.

That coat isn't doing SH-T in Minneapolis today (-10° for the HIGH) without some SERIOUS layers underneath.

Admittedly, layering is part of the logic of the Balmacaan design, but the point stands that a plain wool overcoat – ANY wool overcoat – is not in and of itself a solution in SERIOUSLY cold weather. And I LOVE wool overcoats (as evidenced by my participation in this thread).

 

[epsilon22]

I only have one tweed overcoat, the grey herringbone balmacaan by Spier & Mackay (I think Magee fabric, not sure about weight), I actually found it less wind-proof than the melton wool fabric on my Suitsupply peacoat. For windy weather I really need multiple layers underneath to stop the wind chill.

This be me in Minnesota wearing my balmacaan or peacoat.

 

[K. Nights]

Let me tell you something.

That coat isn't doing SH-T in Minneapolis today (-10° for the HIGH) without some SERIOUS layers underneath.

Admittedly, layering is part of the logic of the Balmacaan design, but the point stands that a plain wool overcoat – ANY wool overcoat – is not in and of itself a solution in SERIOUSLY cold weather. And I LOVE wool overcoats (as evidenced by my participation in this thread).

As a fellow Minneapolitan, I agree. No amount of wool will protect you today.

 

[comrade]

Let me tell you something.

That coat isn't doing SH-T in Minneapolis today (-10° for the HIGH) without some SERIOUS layers underneath.

Admittedly, layering is part of the logic of the Balmacaan design, but the point stands that a plain wool overcoat – ANY wool overcoat – is not in and of itself a solution in SERIOUSLY cold weather. And I LOVE wool overcoats (as evidenced by my participation in this thread).

When I lived in Chicago my coat of choice for very cold weather, although I do not recall -10 F
during the day, was my "Melton Monster" Invertere greatcoat which kept me warm waiting for my
train on an open platform. I also wore down jackets, but the Invertere was more appropriate for
a suit, etc.

 

[DorianGreen]

That's a wonderful coat. It looks like the bold-patterned Balmacaan my friend called his Hadrian's
Wall" coat because he wore it when he toured Hadrian's Wall some 30 years ago. His commitment
to traditional clothing can be summed up in his statement at the time, "No Thinsulate for me"
This was in Chicago where winter is "real" and down and/or Thinsulate is an easy choice.

You know how much I like down (and Thinsulate).

 

[bjhofkin]

When I lived in Chicago my coat of choice for very cold weather, although I do not recall -10 F
during the day, was my "Melton Monster" Invertere greatcoat which kept me warm waiting for my
train on an open platform. I also wore down jackets, but the Invertere was more appropriate for
a suit, etc.
View attachment 2318081

Better for a number of reasons. Still, though, what'd you wear under it?

 

[clee1982]

if it's -10F I wouldn't really care about CM proper or not, North Face/Canadian Goose etc. are coming out...

 

[JohnMRobie]

if it's -10F I wouldn't really care about CM proper or not, North Face/Canadian Goose etc. are coming out...

Yeah -10f. It was -20° this morning.

 

[clee1982]

coldest I ever experienced was walking 20 minutes in grad school to go to 7:30AM math class on real analysis think it was -15F~-25C (before wind chill factor), that 20 minutes walk was, well "refreshing"...

 

[cl smooth]

Part of the problem is that no one makes really heavy wool coats anymore. Try to find a seriously heavy balmacaan or chesterfield, it’s impossible. All the really heavy ones with really thick wool are vintage from 50 years ago.

Even nice $1,500+ coats today feel medium weight at best.

 

[ppk]

coldest I ever experienced was walking 20 minutes in grad school to go to 7:30AM math class on real analysis think it was -15F~-25C (before wind chill factor), that 20 minutes walk was, well "refreshing"...

It's been a while since I've been in that kind of weather, but I remember the inside of my nose freezing when stepping out. I don't miss it.

 

[ppk]

Part of the problem is that no one makes really heavy wool coats anymore. Try to find a seriously heavy balmacaan or chesterfield, it’s impossible. All the really heavy ones with really thick wool are vintage from 50 years ago.

Even nice $1,500+ coats today feel medium weight at best.

I don't quite know what your standard for heavy is, but my SEH Kelly balmacaan that I got earlier this year and their hunting jacket from last year are pretty heavy (23oz-28oz). I was traveling last week where the evening temps were in the low 20s F and the balmacaan was actually very warm.

 

[clee1982]

Part of the problem is that no one makes really heavy wool coats anymore. Try to find a seriously heavy balmacaan or chesterfield, it’s impossible. All the really heavy ones with really thick wool are vintage from 50 years ago.

Even nice $1,500+ coats today feel medium weight at best.

thought you can still get like 30oz+ in RTW, not a lot places, but at least some, in any case, even if it's 35oz+ I'm still sticking with Canada Goose if it's <=-10F

 

[St1X]

Part of the problem is that no one makes really heavy wool coats anymore. Try to find a seriously heavy balmacaan or chesterfield, it’s impossible. All the really heavy ones with really thick wool are vintage from 50 years ago.

Even nice $1,500+ coats today feel medium weight at best.

Spier & Mackay has Balmacaan and Ulster coats made with 800 gr/sqm tweeds

 

[Cause Moe]

As a fellow Minneapolitan, I agree. No amount of wool will protect you today.

Wool base layer, top and bottom, and heavy wool socks. Wool fatigue pants, wool sweater, wool hat, wool scarf, wool (blend) pea-coat. Nice and comfy this morning at -20°C (-4°F), with the appropriate amount of wool.