The Overcoat Thread

[DorianGreen]

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Honestly, I don't think it looks good. But I don't know what a shorter coat would look like on him, so it's hard to judge. Plus, he's not as skinny as me.

It doesn't look good to me either, definitely too big and too long. Shoulders too much dropping as well.
I think that a shorter, more fitted coat would look better.

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

I am 5'6". I want to make a single-breasted coat to wear with jackets or knitwear. But I can't decide what length I need: just above the knee, to the bend of the knee, or just below the knee. Opinions differ: some say that coats above the knee make you look shorter, others say that coats below the knee shorten your legs. Because of my short stature, I can't even try on ready-made coats to see what looks better, because there are no coats anywhere that are higher than mid-calf. Also, they all hang at the shoulders and are simply huge on me: this is the reason why I use MTM tailoring.

Is it possible to make a coat just below the knee and then shorten it to the knee without ruining the proportions of the coat? I love how elegant the longer options look, but since I'm short, it might not look as flattering on me as it might on taller men.

I'm also 5'6" and on the thin side and I think you can never go wrong with just below the knee (like where the knee becomes the shin) for an overcoat.

 

[Requin]

You’re free to prefer single breasted to double breasted jackets, nothing wrong with that. I was pointing out that you specified not buttoning your jackets in some strange attempt to “complement” your height, and how counterintuitive that is to the basic principles of CM. Your continuing fixation on complexes in spite of a lack of any sort of comment on my part says more about your character than anything I could ever presume.


I’d be careful with that if I were you, you’ll sprain your neck if you keep that up.

I'm not fixated on anything, I just like to give detailed answers with examples. Sometimes this can come across as either fixated on the topic or boring.

 

[comrade]

I'm also 5'6" and on the thin side and I think you can never go wrong with just below the knee (like where the knee becomes the shin) for an overcoat.

You've certainly mastered the tie dimple technique. Otherwise, great wardrobe!

 

[corpseposeur]

I have a wedding this weekend and I'm having the most absurd dilemma of which formal overcoat I should wear. Either the charcoal Oxxford Cashmere SB overcoat or a vintage NOS USA made, Brooks Brothers Makers DB. Both were amazing vintage finds on eBay in pristine condition.

The Brooks Brothers was probably a custom make for a left handed person as the key and internal pockets are reversed. The coat also has a lot of structure at the shoulders with small armholes which can be a small inconvenience getting it on over a jacket. 70% wool, 30% cashmere mix. very thick and very plush. It has a very beautiful shape to it.

The Oxxford is soft shouldered and a bit easier to get in and out of with a jacket on. It's made of a herringbone charcoal cashmere which is also soft and pleasant. Both coats are a proper long length that hits around mid-calf.

 

[comrade]

I'm not fixated on anything, I just like to give detailed answers with examples. Sometimes this can come across as either fixated on the topic or boring.

Here's an "example? of an elegant but not commonplace coat:

Davies & Son Shetland Chesterfield

It’s pretty cold out, but you can have your Moncler, Canada Goose or other mass produced outer wear. I’ll take shetland wool in the form of a coat.This is a brilliant Davies & Son s…

handsewncanvas.wordpress.com

 

[clee1982]

An overcoat made by Michael Browne for Simon Crompton. I like how neat it looks.

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I like it but these kind low ish SB coat just felt not that practical (too much exposed area to be warm), looks good though

 

[DorianGreen]

I like it but these kind low ish SB coat just felt not that practical (too much exposed area to be warm), looks good though

Agreed, not the overcoat for freezing temperatures, rather an elegant piece for formal occasions.

 

[clee1982]

Cheap balmacaan from olderbest for testing purpose

Probably looks best “on the move” though, think I’ll keep it, a bit shorter than I like but can live with it

 

[clee1982]

None CM, Norwegian Rain Moscow

 

[classicalthunde]

I have a wedding this weekend and I'm having the most absurd dilemma of which formal overcoat I should wear. Either the charcoal Oxxford Cashmere SB overcoat or a vintage NOS USA made, Brooks Brothers Makers DB. Both were amazing vintage finds on eBay in pristine condition.

The Brooks Brothers was probably a custom make for a left handed person as the key and internal pockets are reversed. The coat also has a lot of structure at the shoulders with small armholes which can be a small inconvenience getting it on over a jacket. 70% wool, 30% cashmere mix. very thick and very plush. It has a very beautiful shape to it.

The Oxxford is soft shouldered and a bit easier to get in and out of with a jacket on. It's made of a herringbone charcoal cashmere which is also soft and pleasant. Both coats are a proper long length that hits around mid-calf.

my thought process would be as follows:
- is it likely to get lost in the chaos of an open bar wedding and teenage coatroom attendants, if so take the less valuable one
- which color goes best with the suit you're wearing
- am I going to be outside for a long time (i.e. taking public transit, etc.) then I'd opt for the DB for more coverage all other things being equal

 

[WoolyLamb]

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Honestly, I don't think it looks good. But I don't know what a shorter coat would look like on him, so it's hard to judge. Plus, he's not as skinny as me.

I honestly think you would be fine with one at the bend of the knee and or maybe a little longer. It isnt much but can help visually lengthen you by classical standards. Anything shorter and it starts looking like a big car coat doing the reverse.

 

[thatboyo]

Cheap balmacaan from olderbest for testing purpose

Probably looks best “on the move” though, think I’ll keep it, a bit shorter than I like but can live with it





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What are the boots in bathroom pic?

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

You've certainly mastered the tie dimple technique. Otherwise, great wardrobe!

First you get the dimple, then you get the power. Then, you get the women.

 

[clee1982]

What are the boots in bathroom pic?

Some Saint Laurent rando off vestiaire (definitely not Wyatt way pointier was trying something with Cuban heel, and for <$200 new!).