The Overcoat Thread

[DorianGreen]

Not mistaken...that detail looks horrible.

Agreed, it's so unpleasant that it would actually prevent me from buying the coat, even if it were of my whole liking.

 

[DorianGreen]

An overcoat made by Michael Browne for Simon Crompton. I like how neat it looks.

 

[Requin]

I am 5'6". I want to make a single-breasted coat to wear with jackets or knitwear. But I can't decide what length I need: just above the knee, to the bend of the knee, or just below the knee. Opinions differ: some say that coats above the knee make you look shorter, others say that coats below the knee shorten your legs. Because of my short stature, I can't even try on ready-made coats to see what looks better, because there are no coats anywhere that are higher than mid-calf. Also, they all hang at the shoulders and are simply huge on me: this is the reason why I use MTM tailoring.

Is it possible to make a coat just below the knee and then shorten it to the knee without ruining the proportions of the coat? I love how elegant the longer options look, but since I'm short, it might not look as flattering on me as it might on taller men.

 

[symphvaria]

I am 5'6". I want to make a single-breasted coat to wear with jackets or knitwear. But I can't decide what length I need: just above the knee, to the bend of the knee, or just below the knee. Opinions differ: some say that coats above the knee make you look shorter, others say that coats below the knee shorten your legs. Because of my short stature, I can't even try on ready-made coats to see what looks better, because there are no coats anywhere that are higher than mid-calf. Also, they all hang at the shoulders and are simply huge on me: this is the reason why I use MTM tailoring.

Is it possible to make a coat just below the knee and then shorten it to the knee without ruining the proportions of the coat? I love how elegant the longer options look, but since I'm short, it might not look as flattering on me as it might on taller men.

The more self-conscious you are about your height, the worse it’ll look on you. Aim for longer regardless of how tall you are.

 

[Requin]

The more self-conscious you are about your height, the worse it’ll look on you. Aim for longer regardless of how tall you are.

I am not ashamed of my height, I just try to choose clothes that look best on me, emphasizing my advantages. And depending on the features of the figure, these are different clothes. For example, unbuttoned single-breasted jackets look much better on me than buttoned or double-breasted ones, because they create two vertical lines.

 

[symphvaria]

I am not ashamed of my height, I just try to choose clothes that look best on me, emphasizing my advantages. And depending on the features of the figure, these are different clothes. For example, unbuttoned single-breasted jackets look much better on me than buttoned or double-breasted ones, because they create two vertical lines.

Trying to minmax every tiny detail about your clothing down to refusing to button your jackets in an attempt to look a smidge taller (which will become irrelevant the second anyone stands next to you anyways) seems pretty contrary to “not ashamed of my height”.

If you want some style inspo regarding longer coats on shorter guys, check out the.second.button on Instagram. He’s your height and rocks midcalf length overcoats and doesn’t look any shorter or taller for it, and most importantly, he looks great.

 

[Requin]

Trying to minmax every tiny detail about your clothing down to refusing to button your jackets in an attempt to look a smidge taller (which will become irrelevant the second anyone stands next to you anyways) seems pretty contrary to “not ashamed of my height”.

No, I just like to look my best. My motives are the same as all people who care about their appearance. Choosing a hairstyle based on your face shape does not mean that you do not like your face shape. And choosing colors that best match your color type doesn't mean you have complexes about your hair color, eyes, and skin tone. You are simply choosing the most advantageous option taking into account your height and body shape.
People tend to attribute qualities to short men that they do not possess. For example, the common stereotype that they are "upstarts" and "have an inferiority complex." Apparently, you have also fallen victim to this stereotype.
Thanks for the advice, I'll definitely watch it.

 

[rob g]

I am 5'6". I want to make a single-breasted coat to wear with jackets or knitwear. But I can't decide what length I need: just above the knee, to the bend of the knee, or just below the knee. Opinions differ: some say that coats above the knee make you look shorter, others say that coats below the knee shorten your legs. Because of my short stature, I can't even try on ready-made coats to see what looks better, because there are no coats anywhere that are higher than mid-calf. Also, they all hang at the shoulders and are simply huge on me: this is the reason why I use MTM tailoring.

Is it possible to make a coat just below the knee and then shorten it to the knee without ruining the proportions of the coat? I love how elegant the longer options look, but since I'm short, it might not look as flattering on me as it might on taller men.

Should be able to do it. I think pocket, button placement, lapel length *should* all be the same for a coat at the knee or below the knee, given that they're coats made for the same person. It would only shift for a coat that was say a 40L vs a 40S. But it would be good to confirm with whatever company you are using for the MTM.

 

[symphvaria]

No, I just like to look my best. My motives are the same as all people who care about their appearance. Choosing a hairstyle based on your face shape does not mean that you do not like your face shape. And choosing colors that best match your color type doesn't mean you have complexes about your hair color, eyes, and skin tone. You are simply choosing the most advantageous option taking into account your height and body shape.

There’s just one small problem with this: going so far as to refuse to button your jacket just makes you look affected, it doesn’t make you look any better than if you did.
Classic menswear is not predicated on concepts like matching your skin tone; what’s more important is following custom and occasion. Example: it doesn’t matter whether or not you think navy or charcoal look good or bad with your complexion; if you’re going to a formal event like a business meeting or a court date, you’re going to be wearing those colors because those are the traditional colors of business attire. Deliberately breaking away from custom to follow some strange psuedoscientific notion of color theory doesn’t make you look better, it makes you look affected and neurotic.

People tend to attribute qualities to short men that they do not possess. For example, the common stereotype that they are "upstarts" and "have an inferiority complex." Apparently, you have also fallen victim to this stereotype.

Nobody is saying this except for you. The lady doth protest too much, I think.

 

[Requin]

Honestly, I don't think it looks good. But I don't know what a shorter coat would look like on him, so it's hard to judge. Plus, he's not as skinny as me.

 

[Requin]

There’s just one small problem with this: going so far as to refuse to button your jacket just makes you look affected, it doesn’t make you look any better than if you did.
Classic menswear is not predicated on concepts like matching your skin tone; what’s more important is following custom and occasion. Example: it doesn’t matter whether or not you think navy or charcoal look good or bad with your complexion; if you’re going to a formal event like a business meeting or a court date, you’re going to be wearing those colors because those are the traditional colors of business attire. Deliberately breaking away from custom to follow some strange psuedoscientific notion of color theory doesn’t make you look better, it makes you look affected and neurotic.


Nobody is saying this except for you. The lady doth protest too much, I think.

In my opinion, single-breasted jackets look better in all cases. I just wear things the way I think they flatter me the most. There is no nervousness in this. I just follow the style and try to look my best, and you build theories about what complexes I have.
I think it is this attentiveness and meticulousness that distinguishes someone who has mastered something as a professional and as a layman. This quality follows me in everything I do and allows me to achieve great heights, especially when it comes to creativity.

 

[DorianGreen]

In my opinion, single-breasted jackets look better in all cases. I just wear things the way I think they flatter me the most. There is no nervousness in this. I just follow the style and try to look my best, and you build theories about what complexes I have.
I think it is this attentiveness and meticulousness that distinguishes someone who has mastered something as a professional and as a layman. This quality follows me in everything I do and allows me to achieve great heights, especially when it comes to creativity.

It's a positive attitude and it sounds like a high self-esteem.

 

[The Big Dripper]

View attachment 2315393
Honestly, I don't think it looks good. But I don't know what a shorter coat would look like on him, so it's hard to judge. Plus, he's not as skinny as me.

I would say this is the best option for him. It needs to look natural. He is heavier set, which means a loose coat would look more flattering. You can't have a loose and short coat, the proportions wouldn't work well.

 

[symphvaria]

In my opinion, single-breasted jackets look better in all cases. I just wear things the way I think they flatter me the most. There is no nervousness in this. I just follow the style and try to look my best, and you build theories about what complexes I have.

You’re free to prefer single breasted to double breasted jackets, nothing wrong with that. I was pointing out that you specified not buttoning your jackets in some strange attempt to “complement” your height, and how counterintuitive that is to the basic principles of CM. Your continuing fixation on complexes in spite of a lack of any sort of comment on my part says more about your character than anything I could ever presume.

I think it is this attentiveness and meticulousness that distinguishes someone who has mastered something as a professional and as a layman. This quality follows me in everything I do and allows me to achieve great heights, especially when it comes to creativity.

I’d be careful with that if I were you, you’ll sprain your neck if you keep that up.

 

[The Big Dripper]

I am 5'6". I want to make a single-breasted coat to wear with jackets or knitwear. But I can't decide what length I need: just above the knee, to the bend of the knee, or just below the knee. Opinions differ: some say that coats above the knee make you look shorter, others say that coats below the knee shorten your legs. Because of my short stature, I can't even try on ready-made coats to see what looks better, because there are no coats anywhere that are higher than mid-calf. Also, they all hang at the shoulders and are simply huge on me: this is the reason why I use MTM tailoring.

Is it possible to make a coat just below the knee and then shorten it to the knee without ruining the proportions of the coat? I love how elegant the longer options look, but since I'm short, it might not look as flattering on me as it might on taller men.

I'm trying to figure this out for myself as well. I think it is a function of shoulder width and height. If you are on the shorter side but have extremely broad shoulders you have to go longer to keep it proportional. If you are on the thinner side you need to go shorter to prevent the coat from swallowing you up, with the mid point being at the knee.