The Overcoat Thread

[classicalthunde]

What’s the warmest overcoat there is? Like, is there anything that can actually compete with a down parka?

My 32oz kersey wool vintage USN peacoat is the warmest coat I have...if worm with layering (sweater, hat) and appropriate trousers its definitely good until about -10f/-20c for suburban/city life. A British Warm or heavy polo coat would probably be just as good...

That being said if you're facing lower temps than that or in a very rural area (e.g. Montana or Maine) I would still opt for a quality modern parka and cold weather gear.

 

[jonathanS]

Cross-post between underfunded liabilities, on going bespoke & overcoat thread.

I’m looking for a fabric that will be used to cut a doppio petto manica forchetta coat (double breasted raglan). I could do a 450g vicuña and cashmere. But one of my friends mentioned that might be too delicate.

Thoughts?

It will have a martingale back

 

[slows2k]

Drake’s polo coat.

View attachment 2281841

That look great, esp because it looks like it fits quite fully. The lapels don't look too 1980s like sometimes polo coat lapels can seem.

 

[sammywammy]

The coat came in last night and I gave it a quick try on, so here are my word vomit impressions at first blush:

The fit is near perfect — the shoulders drape beautifully and the coat hits below my knees. I haven’t tried layering in it yet but it definitely seems roomy enough for me to some thick knits and a mid layer jacket. The only issue with the fit that I noticed is that I might need to have the sleeves extended .5-1 inch, I think mostly because my shoulders fill out the coat so when I raise my arm the sleeves pull up more than I like, though they hit at a good point when my arms are relaxed. I’m not too experienced with having many things altered but there seems to be plenty of material around the cuff to extend the sleeves a couple inches. I probably could have even sized up to an XL (I’m typically an L) and still have it look good, but I think the L is the right balance of being able to layer quite a bit but not look wrong if I just have like a henley or something underneath it. I’m almost certain if I had gotten the Private White coat in 5/L as I was thinking I’d need to exchange for at least one size up.

The collar stays up when popped and looks fantastic, the yarns are a bit slubbier than in the photos which adds some nice texture, and the cream yarns and lining are both a bit warmer toned than the pictures looked to me as well which made it appear as more of a stark black & white. In fact I thought the lining was silver but it’s actually a pale gold (I’m personally glad for the warmth in the tones).

My worry that the coat would be some absurdly heavy thing was unfounded too, it certainly seems warm and comfortable but it’s not like a parka so I should get plenty of wear from it. I also really like the corozo buttons, they’re pretty hefty and the engraved pattern is beautiful so it’s nice they show when buttoned up. The throat latch also can be stowed on two buttons inside the coat so if you don’t want it on the collar you can safely stow it without having to keep it loose in a pocket.

I can’t compare the coat to first hand experience of the Private White one, but based on pics and details I think if you do swap yours for a Wythe coat it will be a trade off. You might miss some of the finer finishing of the PW like the cashmere lined pockets, for a $1,500 coat the Wythe one is maybe on the simpler side (or more rugged/casual which to me was part of the appeal), but if you have issues with the more fitted silhouette I think you’d be very pleased with the Wythe.

Aw brilliant. Thanks for reporting back. Sounds really nice. I'll keep thinking...

 

[sipang]

Cross-post between underfunded liabilities, on going bespoke & overcoat thread.

I’m looking for a fabric that will be used to cut a doppio petto manica forchetta coat (double breasted raglan). I could do a 450g vicuña and cashmere. But one of my friends mentioned that might be too delicate.

Thoughts?

It will have a martingale back

Would camel hair be too plain? Your description reminds me of that Noel Coward raglan polo coat pic.

 

[redsockspugie]

Has anyone compared first hand this season’s Kaptain Sunshine Traveler to previous? This season’s Melton seems relatively lightweight, has no upper quarter lining (still has sleeve lining - but with rayon/cupro instead of cotton/cupro), no internal pockets or equestrian straps. Is this KS cutting corners?

 

[jonathanS]

Would camel hair be too plain? Your description reminds me of that Noel Coward raglan polo coat pic.

I see the comparison. I wouldn’t do envelope pockets. I pretty much would leave it up to the sarto. He likes slash pockets. It’s a classical old school Neapolitan coat. If you look at the work of old maestros, it’s very common (not the new world social media Neapolitan tailors).

 

[wdahab]

My warmest coat is my RJ balmacaan with Marling & Evans really really really thick herringbone tweed. It's like wearing a full on blanket, just utterly drapes.

 

[Using Technology]

Has anyone compared first hand this season’s Kaptain Sunshine Traveler to previous? This season’s Melton seems relatively lightweight, has no upper quarter lining (still has sleeve lining - but with rayon/cupro instead of cotton/cupro), no internal pockets or equestrian straps. Is this KS cutting corners?

I had one from last season and have an earlier one. Last seasons was lighter wight and less stiff, which I actually preferred. Did not feel cheap to me. (It was too small though thus the past tense "had")

 

[Classicism]

No idea the exact quality as no direct experience with this brand but was checking/cleaning up some older bookmarked sites and noticed Korean brand Kei Current (keicurrent.com) has a few winter wool coats and jackets in their sample sale section (pages 2/3) that are very affordably priced. They are all size medium, seem a touch relaxed so may work for a slim L as well.

No idea if this brand will respond to English emails or if a proxy would be needed. Just thought someone might be interested in a calculated gamble.

 

[redsockspugie]

I had one from last season and have an earlier one. Last seasons was lighter wight and less stiff, which I actually preferred. Did not feel cheap to me. (It was too small though thus the past tense "had")

I actually liked the soft “sponginess” of this season’s. It just feels a little light. Did yours from last season have quarter-lining, internal pockets and equestrian straps? I’m trying to figure out whether they just made these changes this season or whether it’s been like this for some time now.

 

[jonathanS]

I was looking at this fabric actually. The undyed book right?

I think, given my tailors age (and that he can retire any time), I think I’d like something special made by him. I’m not sure if that fabric would qualify. But it definitely qualifies as bulletproof. Thanks for the suggestion - I’m thinking about it for a future order, if he will accept it.

My warmest coat is my RJ balmacaan with Marling & Evans really really really thick herringbone tweed. It's like wearing a full on blanket, just utterly drapes.

 

[Using Technology]

I actually liked the soft “sponginess” of this season’s. It just feels a little light. Did yours from last season have quarter-lining, internal pockets and equestrian straps? I’m trying to figure out whether they just made these changes this season or whether it’s been like this for some time now.

I don't think so actually, but instead it had a "reverse melton" lining in tartan which looked great. It was this one: https://nomanwalksalone.com/product...mFSUopUJfD5V5q-sV4hV-oBovboS_iTJHuXPEUOC9yY55