The Overcoat Thread

[DorianGreen]

A Polo Coat with Ulster collar made in a London Lounge herringbone cloth.

https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/polo-coat/

 

[jonathanS]

A Polo Coat with Ulster collar made in a London Lounge herringbone cloth.

View attachment 2055255

https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/polo-coat/

What do we think about epaulettes on an ulster. I’m considering it.

 

[classicalthunde]

What do we think about epaulettes on an ulster. I’m considering it.

Not a fan of epaulettes on any overcoats, they seem anachronistic and always strike me as a bit too militaristic.

 

[classicalthunde]

A Polo Coat with Ulster collar made in a London Lounge herringbone cloth.

View attachment 2055255

https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/polo-coat/

To my eye, this Tailor Caid version represents the platonic ideal of a polo coat. I think the 'postbox' style patch/flap pockets are an integral part of the look...

 

[jonathanS]

To my eye, this Tailor Caid version represents the platonic ideal of a polo coat:

View attachment 2055489

View attachment 2055491

For me, the ideal polo is in these.

 

[jonathanS]

Not a fan of epaulettes on any overcoats, they seem anachronistic and always strike me as a bit too militaristic.

Ulster is a military inspired coat though

Thinking for the 1kg overcoat. Ulster.



Saw the guys over at a. Caraceni do it & I thought hmmmm.

Edit: I think I’ll keep it in mind for a future coat.

 

[aristoi bcn]

The one from A.Caraceni above is a British Warm both in terms of design and cloth used.

Some other examples:

Not always featuring epaulettes:

 

[jonathanS]

The one from A.Caraceni above is a British Warm both in terms of design and cloth used.

Some other examples:

View attachment 2055517 View attachment 2055521

Not always featuring epaulettes:

View attachment 2055523

Interesting. Good catch. Although, with overcoats, I find myself questioning the difference. They all sorta look the same after a while. But you’re correct. Perhaps a blending of style ideas.

I’m not sure the last photo is a British warm, for example.

 

[comrade]

What do we think about epaulettes on an ulster. I’m considering it.

Don't go there Epaulettes belong on Trench Coats, Guardsman Coats,
British Warms, Bridge Coats, etc. All originally military. In fact I owned
a British Warm without epaulettes.

 

[comrade]

Even late Romantic Composers wore Polo Coats, sometimes with
Raglan Sleeves:

 

[MattyS]

For me, the ideal polo is in these.

But some of those have ulster collars and others have peak lapels. Which is your ideal?

 

[DorianGreen]

Interesting. Good catch. Although, with overcoats, I find myself questioning the difference. They all sorta look the same after a while. But you’re correct. Perhaps a blending of style ideas.

I’m not sure the last photo is a British warm, for example.

Yes, some overlapping and mixture is common, so that sometimes it's difficult to define exactly what a style precisely is, and whether a garment is more in this or that style.

Here an overcoat made by Ciardi for Crompton in a Holland & Sherry British Warm cloth. Despite the fabric I would identify it as a Polo Coat.

The guy has a lot of lovely overcoats, this is also a perfect fit in my eyes. I wouldn't wear it with a crew neck sweater and jeans but he does and it doesn't look too bad.

By the way, lovely shade of greyish brown or taupe colour, what according to @comrade was defined "pink" in the uniform of US soldiers.

 

[pugnax]

I love the look of this balmacaan:

https://labourunion-1986.com/collec...ed-wool-balmacaan-coat?variant=43724293996782

but reticent about buying because of the brand - does anyone have any experience with labour union? The brand name is a bit... on-the-nose. And as it's from China, it'll be a pain if I need to return it.

Does anyone know of any brands doing something similar at a similar price? (This is £260)

 

[ppk]

They have a Polo Coat as well.

 

[jonathanS]

Yes, some overlapping and mixture is common, so that sometimes it's difficult to define exactly what a style precisely is, and whether a garment is more in this or that style.

Here an overcoat made by Ciardi for Crompton in a Holland & Sherry British Warm cloth. Despite the fabric I would identify it as a Polo Coat.

The guy has a lot of lovely overcoats, this is also a perfect fit in my eyes. I wouldn't wear it with a crew neck sweater and jeans but he does and it doesn't look too bad.

View attachment 2055953
View attachment 2055955
View attachment 2055959
View attachment 2055961 View attachment 2055963

By the way, lovely shade of greyish brown or taupe colour, what according to @comrade was defined "pink" in the uniform of US soldiers.

I like the coat Ciardi made for Simon as well, in fact, I was studying this when I placed my order for an ulster. Tbh, Simon’s results tempted me to visit Ciardi. I’d agree with you that Simon’s coat is a polo vs British warm if we are getting technical. Regardless, it’s an awesome Coat. I think it’s Simon’s best coat. I studied them all. His ciffonelli, I had a hard time locating photos. His sexton, it was too dramatic for me. An ulster’s beauty lies in its nonchalant nature with its Popped up the collar

If I did a polo coat, it’d be a camel color, and I’d absolutely wear it with a crewneck or even a sweatshirt on the weekends. But it can be worn upward to a suit as well.

But some of those have ulster collars and others have peak lapels. Which is your ideal?

I think the point is, it doesn’t matter: it’s that aesthetic. You’re not making a wrong decision either way. So I wouldn’t stress that. But to answer your question, while I do like the Duke of Windsor’s coat, I think I lean toward the coats of Angelli, Luciano barbera and the English guy with the oversized collars.