The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

[bertie]



Wait what? Are you saying that the SG chambray has polyester in it?

No - it's what they use when they do not have a pope

 

[poorsod]



Wait what? Are you saying that the SG chambray has polyester in it?

I thought polyester melts rather than burns?

 

[alliswell]



Does anyone else picture a bunch of Naples tailors (Ambrosi, Matuozzo, Mina) sitting at a little cafe table on a dirty Naples street, smoking cigarettes, cursing foo's name, and occasionally spitting? Or is it just me?

That would have to be a big table for everyone to sit at a safe distance from Salvatore...

/ that's not far enough
// there's no safe distance
/// wait, where's my wallet?
//// my pants too? really, who steals pants?

 

[edmorel]



.
just the other day I took a match to the scrap of SG chambray in my office.
someone said something earlier about it wrinkling less.
white smoke vs black smoke
I will be happy to do the test in front of anyone interested.

you just can't keep quiet, can you?

 

[alliswell]



you just can't keep quiet, can you?

Another Internet Tough Guy...

 

[A Y]



I thought polyester melts rather than burns?

I believe it melts as well as gives off black smoke, like burning plastic.

Another Internet Tough iGent...

FTFY.

 

[edmorel]



Another Internet Tough Guy...

I'm a lover not a fighter

I believe it melts as well as gives off black smoke, like burning plastic.
FTFY.

thats what it did but I know nothing of fabrics. Someone else was present, maybe they can give their opinion.

 

[poorsod]



Another Internet Tough Guy...

I'm a lover not a fighter

[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

 

[bertie]



I'm a lover not a fighter
thats what it did but I know nothing of fabrics. Someone else was present, maybe they can give their opinion.

I voted for the Canadian. God help me.

 

[bertie]

Is the consensus that one shirt is DOA?

 

[YRR92]

Foo --

For what it's worth, I kinda dig the single cuffs on clapeyron's shirts. The point about spread collar is good -- the idea of OneDressShirt and OneCasualShirt (the OCBDs) makes a lot of sense to me. In fact, heck, the only reason to object to that would be if you were genuinely going to make them the only shirts you owned -- and that's not the case.

I have no familiarity with the SG fabric, but I do think an spread collar end-on-end in the same color as BB blue oxford (that very, very pale blue) would be pretty great for the first few layers of a (non-BD) shirt pyramid. I'd seriously think about going for double cuffs with that (you could do single, but I like the slight heft of a double cuff), but in my case it would probably be worn slightly less often than an OCBD would.

 

[Louis XIV]

Foo, I wondered before which weave gave the fabric of the shirt in the following picture of Spoo it's depth.
Is it end-on-end or chambray? If it is the later, I can definitely understand, why you are going for it, I think it is very subtle, still way more appealing than a poplin.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

[Shirtmaven]

maybe there is confusion as to what is a chambray vs. end on end
and dress shirt chambray vs work shirt chambray.

i posted photos of this somewhere before. I will look to find the photos and post again.

in general end on end has a white warp...(the long yarns)
and usually alternating white and colored yarns (the width of the fabric.
classic end on end can be made in 50's single yarns,
I prefer either 100/2 or 120/2. I have two shirts in 120/2 from ferno.
i have worn them at least 30 times each without signs of wear at the collar tips.
construction is also important. a zephyer weight has fewer yarns then a standard or compact construction.
the lighter weight constructions will also show wear faster then standard constructions

140/2-200/2 end on ends feel great but will show wear much faster.
I had to replace collars and cuffs for a customer after a year on a shirt made from 200/2.

Chambray has a colored warp and white weft.

work shirt chambray is usually made from 20/1 or 30/1 size yarn.
these are large and rough usually made from lower grade cotton.

Dress shirt chambray
for years i used a Japanese chambray that is a 60'/1 i have a darker blue piece in my shop.
The chambray weave was famous as a voile/batiste weave.
I believe Zendlene may also have a colored warp.
I have never seen the SG dress shirt voile/chambray. I can not comment on quality.
so a dress chambray weave can be made in any sort of high end construction.
the look is achieved by the colored warp.

I hope this is helpful.

ed, you know I can't keep my mouth shut!!! hence the reason I am 25 pounds overweight....

the fabric does not bubble.... it just doesn't burn as cleanly as i expected.

foo the only wear issue you will have is on the square link cuff. the tips will rub against your desk as you type. so you will see wear marks faster then if you used
a round convertible cuff.

top fabric SG work shirt chambray
middle fabric japanese 60/1 chambray
bottom fabric light blue end on end 100/2

 

[JPHardy]



I am a little late to the party.
but instead of the rough un businesslike SG chambray go with a mid blue end on end.
just the other day I took a match to the scrap of SG chambray in my office.
someone said something earlier about it wrinkling less.
white smoke vs black smoke
I will be happy to do the test in front of anyone interested.

I'm a lover not a fighter
thats what it did but I know nothing of fabrics. Someone else was present, maybe they can give their opinion.

“Well, I went to CEGO up to get me a shirt and then I thought somebody was barbecuing. I said, ‘Oh Lord Jesus, it’s a fire.’ Then I turned around and Carl was burning SG chambray , Jesus. I ran for my life and then the polyethylene terephthalate smoke got me, I got bronchitis! Ain’t nobody got time for that.”

 

[marcodalondra]

Br

“Well, I went to CEGO up to get me a shirt and then I thought somebody was barbecuing. I said, ‘Oh Lord Jesus, it’s a fire.’ Then I turned around and Carl was burning SG chambray , Jesus. I ran for my life and then the polyethylene terephthalate smoke got me, I got bronchitis! Ain’t nobody got time for that.”

brilliant!