The MTM and Bespoke Trousers Thread

[breakaway01]

Trousers were something my past employers factory could not get right, and became my biggest challenge. But I dedicated my time to overcome those issues because I enjoy solving problems.

Funny you should say that. I love the jackets but the trousers never really felt right to me, so have held off on buying suits or trying the MTO program. Thought it was just me though usually I am a pretty easy fit OTR.

 

[induere_to]

Funny you should say that. I love the jackets but the trousers never really felt right to me, so have held off on buying suits or trying the MTO program. Thought it was just me though usually I am a pretty easy fit OTR.

Soon after I started, nearly three years ago, I brought to the owners attention that there was always excess fabric in the back beneath the seat so I suggested he reduce the back rise; he was skeptical. Several season later, he did just that and lowered the back rise an inch on all ready to wear trousers and it was a huge improvement. Around the same time, the company started making pleated trousers off the rack. The pleats were always breaking and pulling and I suggested to the owner that he make the front panel of the trousers fuller to add less stress on the pleats, but he assured me they were good. A good friend of mine, a local tailor was in conversation with Dylan & Son regarding how their trousers always look so perfect, and the solution was to cut the front panel at the thigh bigger to accommodate for proper draping of the pleat. Hence, his outseams sit further back than standard trousers; in addition to that, for people like me muscular calves, adding more space to the back panel can help provide better drape in the front. One thing I noticed when I was at Pitti Uomo, trouser makers Echizenya mold trouser patterns on a curve to fall neatly around the calf; this can provide a slimmer cut and a more narrow hem opening if you don't want a super wide pant leg that accommodates only for your weird-shaped legs. nothing of course that can be done in 95% of Made to Measure factories, but, it's good to make note of these small techniques. Personally, regarding ready to wear, I started sizing up and altering the waist for a preferred fit.

Made to Measure was much more complicating. It took me a while to adjust and perfect my fittings, but I loved it. One reason I love this thread so much is because the majority of my attention in my appointments transitioned from the headache of shirts to trousers (once I became satisfied in the shirts I had been making), and my strive for perfection now can help me see other peoples concerns and flawed executions on this thread and learn from them.

I mentioned earlier that I had a client who couldn't even get bespoke tailors to make him a trouser to fit properly, when it came to trying made to measure with me, I was no exception. Below, are pictures of his first fitting in a bright blue Loro Piana fabric; below that is the muslin fit, six or something fittings later. It's important to keep in mind that the trousers are made in a crappy muslin fabric and easily show the slightest imperfections. Still, a drastic change in the evolution to how they fit.

...And then I left the company. So whether this guy wants to go ahead with a finished garment or get a refund is completely up to him! I'm just glad I could solve this before I left.

 

[Alan Bee]

@induere_to

A full cut always, always, covers a multitude of sins. Whether you have muscular yam legs (like me) or banana legs, full cut trousers are the way to go if you want a clean line and drape.

That why I advocate them strongly.

Alan Bee

 

[dauster]

Here are my Richard Anderson bespoke pants light blue and still don’t fit right after about three fittings. The darker blue ones are MTM and fit really nice and cost half. Almost comical that I commissioned them at the same time and from the same maker:
First 3 pics bespoke still too tight, the other pics are MTM and part of a suit

 

[dieworkwear]

Here are my Richard Anderson bespoke pants light blue and still don’t fit right after about three fittings. The darker blue ones are MTM and fit really nice and cost half. Almost comical that I commissioned them at the same time and from the same maker:
First 3 pics bespoke still too tight, the other pics are MTM and part of a suit

That's a bummer. Have you asked them to fix the bespoke trousers?

 

[dauster]

That's a bummer. Have you asked them to fix the bespoke trousers?

Of course and I am sure they will, but I feel stupid ordering the exact same pants from the same fabric just in a different color and the cheaper trousers end up fitting way better. Of course it was an experiment but I did not expect this outcome. Now I have been listening to the "spiel" of we working on matching both of the patterns and blahblahblah... I am sure it will be fine but still...

 

[clothingfun]

Hello again everyone and I hope all is well during these uncertain days.

I had a couple pairs of linen made up as the hot weather has returned (at least where I live.) Besides just being fun to share a pair, I realize there are some fellows that participate here that have tailoring experience.

I would like to note that the front photo seems to make these britches appear much more slim fitting than they really are. I suppose it is just one of the idiosyncrasies of static photos.

Overall, I’m really happy with the fit and feel and the fabric is very nice. However, I am open to constructive suggestions. Thanks!

 

[beargonefishing]

Hello again everyone and I hope all is well during these uncertain days.

I had a couple pairs of linen made up as the hot weather has returned (at least where I live.) Besides just being fun to share a pair, I realize there are some fellows that participate here that have tailoring experience.

I would like to note that the front photo seems to make these britches appear much more slim fitting than they really are. I suppose it is just one of the idiosyncrasies of static photos.

Overall, I’m really happy with the fit and feel and the fabric is very nice. However, I am open to constructive suggestions. Thanks!

View attachment 1357413

View attachment 1357414

Where did you order from? Did they measure you in person?

 

[GBR]

Soon after I started, nearly three years ago, I brought to the owners attention that there was always excess fabric in the back beneath the seat so I suggested he reduce the back rise; he was skeptical. Several season later, he did just that and lowered the back rise an inch on all ready to wear trousers and it was a huge improvement. Around the same time, the company started making pleated trousers off the rack. The pleats were always breaking and pulling and I suggested to the owner that he make the front panel of the trousers fuller to add less stress on the pleats, but he assured me they were good. A good friend of mine, a local tailor was in conversation with Dylan & Son regarding how their trousers always look so perfect, and the solution was to cut the front panel at the thigh bigger to accommodate for proper draping of the pleat. Hence, his outseams sit further back than standard trousers; in addition to that, for people like me muscular calves, adding more space to the back panel can help provide better drape in the front. One thing I noticed when I was at Pitti Uomo, trouser makers Echizenya mold trouser patterns on a curve to fall neatly around the calf; this can provide a slimmer cut and a more narrow hem opening if you don't want a super wide pant leg that accommodates only for your weird-shaped legs. nothing of course that can be done in 95% of Made to Measure factories, but, it's good to make note of these small techniques. Personally, regarding ready to wear, I started sizing up and altering the waist for a preferred fit.

Made to Measure was much more complicating. It took me a while to adjust and perfect my fittings, but I loved it. One reason I love this thread so much is because the majority of my attention in my appointments transitioned from the headache of shirts to trousers (once I became satisfied in the shirts I had been making), and my strive for perfection now can help me see other peoples concerns and flawed executions on this thread and learn from them.

I mentioned earlier that I had a client who couldn't even get bespoke tailors to make him a trouser to fit properly, when it came to trying made to measure with me, I was no exception. Below, are pictures of his first fitting in a bright blue Loro Piana fabric; below that is the muslin fit, six or something fittings later. It's important to keep in mind that the trousers are made in a crappy muslin fabric and easily show the slightest imperfections. Still, a drastic change in the evolution to how they fit.


View attachment 1353910

View attachment 1353911

View attachment 1353913

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View attachment 1353917

...And then I left the company. So whether this guy wants to go ahead with a finished garment or get a refund is completely up to him! I'm just glad I could solve this before I left.

Does the (sensible) removal of the back pockets have any bearing on fit to be wary about?

 

[clee1982]

Hello again everyone and I hope all is well during these uncertain days.

I had a couple pairs of linen made up as the hot weather has returned (at least where I live.) Besides just being fun to share a pair, I realize there are some fellows that participate here that have tailoring experience.

I would like to note that the front photo seems to make these britches appear much more slim fitting than they really are. I suppose it is just one of the idiosyncrasies of static photos.

Overall, I’m really happy with the fit and feel and the fabric is very nice. However, I am open to constructive suggestions. Thanks!

View attachment 1357413

View attachment 1357414

fit looks good

 

[clothingfun]

Where did you order from? Did they measure you in person?

These two pairs (the other is a nice royal blue) were made by a local tailor I have used for various garments over the years. He has a small shop with two employees where everything, except shirts, is done in house.

@clee1982 thanks for your thoughts!

 

[CyclingTex]

Soon after I started, nearly three years ago, I brought to the owners attention that there was always excess fabric in the back beneath the seat so I suggested he reduce the back rise; he was skeptical. Several season later, he did just that and lowered the back rise an inch on all ready to wear trousers and it was a huge improvement. Around the same time, the company started making pleated trousers off the rack. The pleats were always breaking and pulling and I suggested to the owner that he make the front panel of the trousers fuller to add less stress on the pleats, but he assured me they were good. A good friend of mine, a local tailor was in conversation with Dylan & Son regarding how their trousers always look so perfect, and the solution was to cut the front panel at the thigh bigger to accommodate for proper draping of the pleat. Hence, his outseams sit further back than standard trousers; in addition to that, for people like me muscular calves, adding more space to the back panel can help provide better drape in the front. One thing I noticed when I was at Pitti Uomo, trouser makers Echizenya mold trouser patterns on a curve to fall neatly around the calf; this can provide a slimmer cut and a more narrow hem opening if you don't want a super wide pant leg that accommodates only for your weird-shaped legs. nothing of course that can be done in 95% of Made to Measure factories, but, it's good to make note of these small techniques. Personally, regarding ready to wear, I started sizing up and altering the waist for a preferred fit.

Made to Measure was much more complicating. It took me a while to adjust and perfect my fittings, but I loved it. One reason I love this thread so much is because the majority of my attention in my appointments transitioned from the headache of shirts to trousers (once I became satisfied in the shirts I had been making), and my strive for perfection now can help me see other peoples concerns and flawed executions on this thread and learn from them.

I mentioned earlier that I had a client who couldn't even get bespoke tailors to make him a trouser to fit properly, when it came to trying made to measure with me, I was no exception. Below, are pictures of his first fitting in a bright blue Loro Piana fabric; below that is the muslin fit, six or something fittings later. It's important to keep in mind that the trousers are made in a crappy muslin fabric and easily show the slightest imperfections. Still, a drastic change in the evolution to how they fit.


View attachment 1353910

View attachment 1353911

View attachment 1353913

View attachment 1353915

View attachment 1353916

View attachment 1353917

...And then I left the company. So whether this guy wants to go ahead with a finished garment or get a refund is completely up to him! I'm just glad I could solve this before I left.

Where can we get pants like that made?

 

[comrade]

An option that I am not sure has been mentioned is to get MTM from a
reputable maker at their retailer's trunk show. In this case it was 10+ years ago
at the San Francisco Saks from Zegna or was it Zanella?. Someone
from the manufacturer, presumably a tailor, measured me for a generic pair of
gray slacks, as a starter .This is usually a low risk option.
I had brought along Several pairs of RTW and bespoke trousers
that I owned and fit very well so the tailor could see examples of my
preferences and fit. After measuring me every which way and checking
out the pants I brought along, the order went in. A few months later I
went to Saks to pick up the finished work. Unacceptable. The pants fit like
ones I could have purchased at Saks OTR. Full refund. I forgot to mention that
I have a fitting problem. I have long legs and a short rise and almost no butt.
That was why I went MTM. The best fitting pants that I own happened to
have been RTW and were a "close" fit to begin with, plus expert alterations.
My bespoke ones were made in San Francisco about 20 years ago by a now
retired "no name" tailor. who happened to be Andreas Gorges'; "mentor".
They still fit perfectly having been altered slightly to accommodate my now
post athletic build.

 

[JJ Katz]

Re. online MTM like Luxire, etc., unless you are a really difficult fit, you can start with very inexpensive trial ones and the next pair should be a lot better already.

 

[AdmiralThrawn]

Here are my trousers made by Tarasenko Tailoring (northern Poland). In contrast to a usual fabric (grey flannel), the cut is quite rare. With no waistband, but unlike the famous Hollywood top, here are side regulators and fishtail for suspenders. In combination with a high rise, they mask great my short legs.
Very like how they are balanced. The top is rigid and heavy compared to the hips and pant leg, which give a lot of freedom.

With this project, I have seen every advantage of bespoke trousers compared to MTM.