The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

[Hifilover]



Yep, that's what I figured as well, he has to earn his cut as well. I didn't really have a set budget, rather, I misheard him wrt the labour cost. Still acceptable however as the other recommended tailor in this price bracket comes in at round the same price. Regardless, what I was getting at is the fact that Scatex was presented as British when it's Chinese. That's besides the point now, as my first fitting is tomorrow. Again, I wanted to stress that reading someone's experience online is one thing, getting a good result personally is another. I took a chance based on decent feedback here, as my dad had previously tried Michael/Ng and wanted to compare.

Next time I'll play around with CMT, I'm still learning the in and out of bespoke clothing (and will be for a while). Keep you all updated.

Thanks for all the help fellas!

Brendan

What is your dad's comment ?

 

[Hifilover]



Besides the English looking Cloth, also kind reminder for the work of GT, I have experience that they do a light fusing and call that full canvas. 

My personal experience, maybe not apply to everyone, but better check.

Fake full canvas become more popular now . You are very smart and one of the few who can distinguish them . It is not easy to dinstingush from finish jacket . Can you teach us ?

 

[GBR]



I believe business is business. It is beyond common sense to ask a businessman to tell you all the ins and outs of his trade. If you were the businessman you wouldn't like it either.... so why insist?

From my knowledge, it really takes luck and experience to buy good fabrics that is worthwhile for CMT. I have seen quiet a few new comers who focus on bargain too much when they buy their first fabric. That will cause another rubbish result although you may be happy to save a few pennies (i.e. to be happy for a short moment of time).

Back to someone's point on fusing + canvass, that is also bullshit because sometimes to reach the desired effect, that extra layer of fusing before horsehair canvass is needed. I am sure if you ask a tailor upfront and he would have advice you whether your fabric pick is suitable for fusing or not. For instance, Hui deliberately choose not to fuse my wool/linen/silk stuff because they are more suited in that way.

If I recall correctly, this young gent asked Hui to make a two piece suit fully canvassed at or below HK$6500... he intended the suit to be only worn a few times per year and is intended to be used in Canada.... If I were him, I would have asked whether there is suitable stock fabrics, reconsider budget and ask for more options before jumping into it.

I am sure this suit will be his best one, albeit just fall short of SF standard.

Absolutely correct. Novices should just stop thinking they are clever by purchasing cloth for CMT to save a few $, they pay too much for expensive cloth or are sold bits of rag and then try to beat the tailor down to meet a limited budget which is crazy because decent tailors do not need to give their time and expertise away for nothing - they are not charities as some seem to think them. The skill rests entirely with your cutter and his staff but there is no skill whatever in buying expensive cloth from a market trader.

A tailor will have arrange of cloths available to which he is happy to sew his label into the coat. Allow him that pride in his workmanship and you will be fine. Try to foist something onto a tailor that you don't even know nor will likely see again simply gets you something at the bottom end of his overall quality range - or he might simply put you out of his premises as he has quite sufficient discerning whose needs he sees as being his priority.

 

[GBR]



Yep, that's what I figured as well, he has to earn his cut as well. I didn't really have a set budget, rather, I misheard him wrt the labour cost. Still acceptable however as the other recommended tailor in this price bracket comes in at round the same price. Regardless, what I was getting at is the fact that Scatex was presented as British when it's Chinese. That's besides the point now, as my first fitting is tomorrow. Again, I wanted to stress that reading someone's experience online is one thing, getting a good result personally is another. I took a chance based on decent feedback here, as my dad had previously tried Michael/Ng and wanted to compare.

Next time I'll play around with CMT, I'm still learning the in and out of bespoke clothing (and will be for a while). Keep you all updated.

Thanks for all the help fellas!

Brendan

Yes, your cutter is the expert not you, take his advice and respect him for it.

 

[Hifilover]

Agree . No tailor welcome cmt . The money you save is the money tailor lose. Let the tailor make some money . Let him happy , treasure you and put heart to make a good suit for us . A tailor will not treasure the customer who rip him as much as possible .

 

[PekingRoadHK]

Agree . No tailor welcome cmt . The money you save is the money tailor lose. Let the tailor make some money . Let him happy , treasure you and put heart to make a good suit for us . A tailor will not treasure the customer who rip him as much as possible .

You talk about paying rental for retail tailor shops. Tailor Baotou charge tailor shops about HK$2k workmanship for a full canvas suit. Tailor Baotou charge walk-in customers in Mirador HK$2.xk workmanship for a full canvas suit. Same product! Tailor Baotou do the measurement, cutting, and fitting.

The difference is service and location! Picking the right fabric is not easy for people without much experiences. My very last time visited tailor shop years ago, the boss showed me a suit fabric called "Patek Philippe" brand. The boss said "Patek Philippe" is world class, I ran away of course. I don't trust tailor shops anymore, they have to sell fabrics at high price with very low cost to make money to pay their rental. What is customer to tailor shops?

170#
BEST VALUE TAILOR IN HONG KONG
http://www.styleforum.net/t/68785/best-value-tailor-in-hong-kong/165

 

[add911_11]

I agree all fabrics can be tailored without interfusing, but some of the lightweight, fragile stuff will look like **** if you don't properly press them now and then.

I am talking about those tropical wieght super wools where it is hard to give/take shape but the most optimum to wear in deep Summer.

I now mostly wears these fragile and lightweight stuff to balance the usual heat, I don't have the luxury of someone who can press my coat every two wears, therefore everytime I have something new made I will ask Hui whether they are suitable for interfusing.

Sorry for the folks who was misinterpreted by Hui, I suppose besides making a one-sided claim here, it is far better to put this upfront with Hui and asked for redemption.

 

[Fishball]



Agree . No tailor welcome cmt . The money you save is the money tailor lose. Let the tailor make some money . Let him happy , treasure you and put heart to make a good suit for us . A tailor will not treasure the customer who rip him as much as possible .

Most if not all my suit for this twenty years are CMT, I don't think my tailors were "unhappy."
It is fair deal, you can accept CMT or not, like Chan, they don't do CMT anymore.

 

[Hifilover]



I agree all fabrics can be tailored without interfusing, but some of the lightweight, fragile stuff will look like **** if you don't properly press them now and then.

I am talking about those tropical wieght super wools where it is hard to give/take shape but the most optimum to wear in deep Summer.

I now mostly wears these fragile and lightweight stuff to balance the usual heat, I don't have the luxury of someone who can press my coat every two wears, therefore everytime I have something new made I will ask Hui whether they are suitable for interfusing.

Sorry for the folks who was misinterpreted by Hui, I suppose besides making a one-sided claim here, it is far better to put this upfront with Hui and asked for redemption.

I have Scatex suit, i agree it is better to add fuse.

 

[Hifilover]



You talk about paying rental for retail tailor shops. Tailor Baotou charge tailor shops about HK$2k workmanship for a full canvas suit. Tailor Baotou charge walk-in customers in Mirador HK$2.xk workmanship for a full canvas suit. Same product! Tailor Baotou do the measurement, cutting, and fitting.

The difference is service and location! Picking the right fabric is not easy for people without much experiences. My very last time visited tailor shop years ago, the boss showed me a suit fabric called "Patek Philippe" brand. The boss said "Patek Philippe" is world class, I ran away of course. I don't trust tailor shops anymore, they have to sell fabrics at high price with very low cost to make money to pay their rental. What is customer to tailor shops?

Is it what you want to proof yourself that you are very smart ? People go to tailor shops are stupid.

Why non-stop repeat and repeat again? People get annoyed .

 

[Hifilover]



Most if not all my suit for this twenty years are CMT, I don't think my tailors were "unhappy."
It is fair deal, you can accept CMT or not, like Chan, they don't do CMT anymore.

I mean tailor shops favour non-cmt than cmt .

Obviously , if they are unhappy , they will not accept .

 

[Hifilover]



I agree all fabrics can be tailored without interfusing, but some of the lightweight, fragile stuff will look like **** if you don't properly press them now and then.

I am talking about those tropical wieght super wools where it is hard to give/take shape but the most optimum to wear in deep Summer.

I now mostly wears these fragile and lightweight stuff to balance the usual heat, I don't have the luxury of someone who can press my coat every two wears, therefore everytime I have something new made I will ask Hui whether they are suitable for interfusing.

Sorry for the folks who was misinterpreted by Hui, I suppose besides making a one-sided claim here, it is far better to put this upfront with Hui and asked for redemption.

Please teach me . Is it adding fusing will add weight to the fabric , reduce air pass through which make you wear hotter ? In such case why not select a porus light weight fabric such as 260 gm without any fusing ?

 

[Fishball]



Please teach me . Is it adding fusing will add weight to the fabric , reduce air pass through which make you wear hotter ? In such case why not select a porus light weight fabric such as 260 gm without any fusing ?

Good question, I also has same doubt.

I think people should avoid using those "lightweight, fragile stuff" rather than using fusing.
I remember I wore those old LP Summer Tasmanian 100s & 120's in summer, and they performed well.

 

[Hifilover]



Good question, I also has same doubt.

I think people should avoid using those "lightweight, fragile stuff" rather than using fusing.
I remember I wore those old LP Summer Tasmanian 100s & 120's in summer, and they performed well.

Since GT is rated on par with AMHC , have you ever known AMHC using fusing too ?

 

[Fishball]



Since GT is rated on par with AMHC , have you ever known AMHC using fusing too ?

Not on my suits and sportcoats.
And not on anything I saw on the hangers in the shop.