The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

[HuggyBear]

Would be interesting to see the break even point on prices where it becomes too much for people in Europe and US to use HK tailors given the hikes in prices...

Still good savings for now mind

 

[hyho]

To be honest, WWC still does one of the most consistent work from my experience in HK compared to what I got

 

[BernieL]

@Mr Pauper Wow...I guess WWC charges low for the base jacket price and then upcharges on fabric.

@emptym Most are snug, but if you look at their Instagram, they also can cut a fuller chest with roomier, extended shoulders:

@hyho When did you purchase the Moonbeam Sports Coat? I was quoted $2,400 at their most recent trunk show....

@chobochobo Yeah, the trial shirt from Ascot Chang was very disappointing. I emailed them about it but have so far been ignored.

@Hifilover @bamboo Seems WWC is really upcharging on fabric!

By the way guys, Sartoria Solito is coming to Los Angeles this March. Lucas from Sartorial Trips says he will be coming here three times a year. Price of a sports coat starts at 2,500 euros. I asked for a quote on the Loro Piana Blazers Bunch Col. 667, 667030 in 270-290g, 100% wool and the cost of fabric is 150 euros. I see two different pricing models here: Cheap base jacket but high fabric upselling (WW Chan) and high base jacket price and fair fabric cost (Solito).

Ultimately, if a WW Chan jacket costs me $2,400, it might be worth it to pay the extra $600 to go w/ Solito and get a true Neapolitan jacket.

If anyone is interested in having Solito come to San Francisco too, here is the link to vote for him to come here: http://www.sartorialtrips.com/san-francisco-vote

I believe we just need a small amount of votes to get him!

 

[shirtingfantasy]

@Mr Pauper Wow...I guess WWC charges low for the base jacket price and then upcharges on fabric.

@emptym Most are snug, but if you look at their Instagram, they also can cut a fuller chest with roomier, extended shoulders:
View attachment 1098086

@hyho When did you purchase the Moonbeam Sports Coat? I was quoted $2,400 at their most recent trunk show....

@chobochobo Yeah, the trial shirt from Ascot Chang was very disappointing. I emailed them about it but have so far been ignored.

@Hifilover @bamboo Seems WWC is really upcharging on fabric!

By the way guys, Sartoria Solito is coming to Los Angeles this March. Lucas from Sartorial Trips says he will be coming here three times a year. Price of a sports coat starts at 2,500 euros. I asked for a quote on the Loro Piana Blazers Bunch Col. 667, 667030 in 270-290g, 100% wool and the cost of fabric is 150 euros. I see two different pricing models here: Cheap base jacket but high fabric upselling (WW Chan) and high base jacket price and fair fabric cost (Solito).

Ultimately, if a WW Chan jacket costs me $2,400, it might be worth it to pay the extra $600 to go w/ Solito and get a true Neapolitan jacket.

If anyone is interested in having Solito come to San Francisco too, here is the link to vote for him to come here: http://www.sartorialtrips.com/san-francisco-vote

I believe we just need a small amount of votes to get him!

Unfortunately, the "upcharge on fabric" or "upcharge on luxury fabric" model is the preferred model in Hong Kong. I like the Italian model (high base price, fair upcharge/ mark-up on fabric) better because it allows me to choose finer cotton and wool depending on need and preferences not (so much on) price.

The recent trunk show experience with Ascot Chang seems very shocking. I suspect some incompetent staff must be fired to solve the problem.

It brings us back to an interesting question (relevant to HK tailors in general): what are the risks and benefits of going direct to workshops/ sub-contractors BaoTou (see this wonderful blog by @PekingRoadHK) to try to skim on the fabric upcharge by reputable shops? The price benefit is certain and obvious, but in the case of QC and time spent negotiating with the tailor if first results are disappointing, you do need a proper shop (especially if you do not live in HK, or in a close-by city). In the case of BaoTou, posting on StyleForum won't help...



P.S. I do believe that Ascot Chang will respond to the horrendous photos posted. They are self-respecting as far as I know - even though I go to the Elements branch (instead of the venerable Peninsula branch). My experience with them, although not without hiccups (in terms of fit and make), has been overall pleasant. I particularly like their handstitched shirt (see review on my blog), which, in my opinion, although lacking some Italian flair, is a very neat handmade shirt and a piece of fine craft. That said, without a perfect fit already achieved, you probably won't go to that...

 

[BernieL]

@shirtingfantasy I was measured by Nelson, of the Peninsula branch. From my understanding, he is a forum favorite.

Looking back, I should have ordered only 1-2 shirts instead of 3. I didn’t realize the three shirt minimum could be brushed off.

The results are much more disappointing considering I went with three Alumo fabrics, trusting in their reputation and ability to get me a great fit. The AC shirt is so far off it can’t even be used to dial in my fit as my RTW Permanent Style shirt offers a vastly superior fit.

Also, I showed up to the trunk show with my Permanent Style oxford button down shirt. I asked them to create a similar collar in a lightly fused construction with a nice roll. The Ascot Chang shirt collar has virtually no roll and is as stiff as a cardboard. While I can’t comment on final fit, AC is definitely is lacking in terms of general style. It’s a shame Luca Avitabile and similar Italian shirt makers don’t visit San Francisco. I’d become a patron in a heartbeat.

We will see how it goes. I fly to Hong Kong in less than 3 weeks and will be staying for 10 days for my first two suit fittings with WWChan. If AC doesn’t respond soon I’ll have to force a refund and have WWC make my shirts instead.

 

[bamboo]

@Mr Pauper Wow...I guess WWC charges low for the base jacket price and then upcharges on fabric.


@Hifilover @bamboo Seems WWC is really upcharging on fabric!
Ultimately, if a WW Chan jacket costs me $2,400, it might be worth it to pay the extra $600 to go w/ Solito and get a true Neapolitan jacket.

If anyone is interested in having Solito come to San Francisco too, here is the link to vote for him to come here: http://www.sartorialtrips.com/san-francisco-vote

I believe we just need a small amount of votes to get him!

@BernieL , as @shirtingfantasy above mentioned, it is a pricing model common in Hong Kong and probably in Japan too. It may serve better to generate more profit rather than having higher charges on CMT (basic cloth). I understand that more expensive cloth is sometimes more difficult to deal with and the damage when something going wrong is higher. (Customers demand remake, refund or simply not coming back to pay the remaining half of the full price. etc). Having said that as you said it is quite possible that depending on the cloth, top Asian tailors prices can surpass European one. It is even easier for AC to become more expensive than European shirt makers.

 

[BernieL]

@bamboo Yes, that seems to be the case. I wonder when I go to Hong Kong if I can negotiate a "Hong Kong" rate and avoid sales tax as well by putting down deposits/down payments for 5 additional sport coats and referencing the considerably cheaper fabric procurement costs if I did it myself.

For WW Chan, do you usually pay 100% upfront? I paid in full at the most recent trunk show in San Francisco, and was wondering if it was possible to pay partially first.

Lastly, am I crazy in wanting a discounted price for subsequent orders with no fittings (straight to production then shipped to me?)

 

[BernieL]

@shirtingfantasy @dieworkwear Gentlemen, do you know if Ascot Chang is able to produce the Permanent Style Button-Down Collar? (pic below)

I walked in to get measured wearing the RTW model of the Permanent Style Oxford Button Down Shirt (exact same shirt Simon is wearing, except his is bespoke) and they told me they could do the same collar. However, this is the end result i got:

 

[dieworkwear]

@shirtingfantasy @dieworkwear Gentlemen, do you know if Ascot Chang is able to produce the Permanent Style Button-Down Collar? (pic below) View attachment 1098232 View attachment 1098233 View attachment 1098234

I walked in to get measured wearing the RTW model of the Permanent Style Oxford Button Down Shirt (exact same shirt Simon is wearing, except his is bespoke) and they told me they could do the same collar. However, this is the end result i got:
View attachment 1098235

Sorry, I don't know anything about Simon's collar.

 

[BernieL]

Sorry, I don't know anything about Simon's collar.

Do you have pics of any button-down shirts by Ascot Chang we all can see? That would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

 

[dieworkwear]

Do you have pics of any button-down shirts by Ascot Chang we all can see? That would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

I don't, unfortunately. They're a bespoke shirtmaker, however, so if you want a certain collar style, I'm sure they can make it for you. I've had pretty good success with just sending them a few photos of certain collars I like, and having them replicate it. I've also sent them physical samples to copy.

 

[bamboo]

@bamboo Yes, that seems to be the case. I wonder when I go to Hong Kong if I can negotiate a "Hong Kong" rate and avoid sales tax as well by putting down deposits/down payments for 5 additional sport coats and referencing the considerably cheaper fabric procurement costs if I did it myself.

For WW Chan, do you usually pay 100% upfront? I paid in full at the most recent trunk show in San Francisco, and was wondering if it was possible to pay partially first.

Lastly, am I crazy in wanting a discounted price for subsequent orders with no fittings (straight to production then shipped to me?)

As far as I know there is no foreigner price and local price at a reputable shop and there is no sales tax in Hong Kong so domestic price and export price are equal. I did not mean to provide a material for negotiation with tailors. I simply stated it is in a range in Hong Kong. If they know you are going to make 5 sports coat, I will not be surprised if a tailor offer some kind of deal. Citing the fabric cost directly does not sound classy IMHO and may put both of you in an awkward situation at the beginning of the relationship.

I am not Chan customer myself, but 50% initial payment is a normal practice locally here. I see trunk shows is sometimes 100% upfront.

I would not do myself STP method with any tailor unless you have made multiple jackets with various weights.

 

[dhkt]

Do you have pics of any button-down shirts by Ascot Chang we all can see? That would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

Here is my OCBD shirt from the Ascot Chang Prince Building Branch two or three years ago. I don't recall the exact collar model and it's probably made with the 101 interlining of Ascot Chang. The collar is stiffer than all of my Italian-made shirts, but I still rather like it as its shape holds quite well.

I suppose that you can schedule 1-2 fittings with them during your stay in Hong Kong. Sending your email again for the appointments may help.

 

[hyho]

The moonbeam was paid last month. I pay 100% upfront.

@Mr Pauper Wow...I guess WWC charges low for the base jacket price and then upcharges on fabric.

@emptym Most are snug, but if you look at their Instagram, they also can cut a fuller chest with roomier, extended shoulders:
View attachment 1098086

@hyho When did you purchase the Moonbeam Sports Coat? I was quoted $2,400 at their most recent trunk show....

@chobochobo Yeah, the trial shirt from Ascot Chang was very disappointing. I emailed them about it but have so far been ignored.

@Hifilover @bamboo Seems WWC is really upcharging on fabric!

By the way guys, Sartoria Solito is coming to Los Angeles this March. Lucas from Sartorial Trips says he will be coming here three times a year. Price of a sports coat starts at 2,500 euros. I asked for a quote on the Loro Piana Blazers Bunch Col. 667, 667030 in 270-290g, 100% wool and the cost of fabric is 150 euros. I see two different pricing models here: Cheap base jacket but high fabric upselling (WW Chan) and high base jacket price and fair fabric cost (Solito).

Ultimately, if a WW Chan jacket costs me $2,400, it might be worth it to pay the extra $600 to go w/ Solito and get a true Neapolitan jacket.

If anyone is interested in having Solito come to San Francisco too, here is the link to vote for him to come here: http://www.sartorialtrips.com/san-francisco-vote

I believe we just need a small amount of votes to get him!

I

 

[BernieL]

@dieworkwear Thanks for the info - AC just emailed me back and said I can send them my dress shirt so they can look at the collar. ]

@dhkt Thanks for the pic! Yes, I plan to do at least two fittings while I am at Hong Kong.

@hyho WHAT?! Which city was your trunk show hosted in? They said a Moonbeam sportscoat would be $2,400 this October at the San Francisco trunk show. You said that you paid 15,000 HKD, which is around $1,915...Mind blowing.