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add911_11

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That's a big internal pocket flap? Or is it a 'part' ?


I believe you are referring the pic when part of the coat is lay on the bench chair.

That is actually the outside flap pocket. The interal pockets are typical stuff.
 

chobochobo

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Ok, thought so in retrospect. But then it could be your unique design ;) greetings from sunny Chelmsford! Actually is drizzling
 

add911_11

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Ok, thought so in retrospect. But then it could be your unique design ;) greetings from sunny Chelmsford! Actually is drizzling


I might get into the territory of 6 outside flap pockets soon :p

O just forgot with YKK metal zips as well.:slayer::slayer::slayer::slayer:
 
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Hifilover

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I went pass to my tailor today and I found this jacket which the coatmaker is making it up himself. Apparently he is making a Zegna Wool-Cashmere blend odd jacket for himself for the upcoming cold days in Hong Kong. Upon my examination of the jigsaw pieces, I find the below pictures show a very informative message for illustrating how non-fused hand canvassed looks like (in there way).


One can see a good amount of parts are attached by hand. Without the extra fused layer, even the lower chest had to be hand stitched to create a softer look. I am aware that upon attachments the shoulder padding would be further hand stitched.

I also found that for these kind of work, the extra supporting cloth (in white) is needed to perform the hand pad procedure.

However, I find that for my odd jackets, given the structured look I preferred, except the hand padded chest only machine pad will be sufficient for my non-fused hand canvass coat.

Obviously, everything is subject to the characteristic of the fabric itself, there is no hard and fast rule.

On a side note, my new DB is also almost ready for final fitting:-


It maybe busiest period for tailors in Hong Kong now and he has time to make a jacket for himself.
 

BigbigJohnny

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i visited to this shop couple weeks ago after see their ad on fb.
Their handwork is not bad but strongly disagree the best in town. What I ve seen is they look like provide MTM service than bespoke. And the young shop owners does not look like "tailoring" much.


I am sure at least they hamd finish the pick stitchings and lapel hole.

When view them under the MTM aspect, their product is actually pretty good.
 
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BigbigJohnny

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Where is it?

i visited to this shop couple weeks ago after see their ad on fb.
Their handwork is not bad but strongly disagree the best in town. What I ve seen is they look like provide MTM service than bespoke. And the young shop owners does not look like "tailoring" much.
 

add911_11

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It maybe busiest period for tailors in Hong Kong now and he has time to make a jacket for himself.


Actaully I heard about his project at least 1year ago.

So he actaully already came a long way.
 
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add911_11

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add911_11

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add911_11

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i visited to this shop couple weeks ago after see their ad on fb.
Their handwork is not bad but strongly disagree the best in town. What I ve seen is they look like provide MTM service than bespoke. And the young shop owners does not look like "tailoring" much.



Where is it?


Quoted for suspicious user account.
 

add911_11

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seferphier

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i visited to this shop couple weeks ago after see their ad on fb.
Their handwork is not bad but strongly disagree the best in town. What I ve seen is they look like provide MTM service than bespoke. And the young shop owners does not look like "tailoring" much.

Would you share which tailor you use? So far, I haven't seen very well done buttonholes among HK tailors. The hand stitched buttonholes by HK tailors tend to be very flat.

I made some suits with Lai. I really like the fact that Lai will do the measuring and the cutting. However, his finishing isn't really outstanding. I recall others saying that Grand Tailor's finishing is better than Lai. I disagree. I seen quite a few grand tailor suits and the interior is machine stitched. In addition, I don't like how thick the shoulder pads are with Grand Tailor. I know others who like thick shoulder pads - it is a personal choice.

I don't consider Suit Access to be MTM. They make a dummy suit first with your measurement and you can correct the cutting and make all the necessary changes. After you are satisfied, they cut the fabric according to your own adjustment. That's different from MTM, where MTM uses a pre-made suit first and then make adjustments accordingly. I'm not too sure how many fittings you would get. Honestly, I would be very careful and detail when making the adjustment to the dummy suit. Regarding their handwork, you can specify buttonholes to be done by hand, which, in my opinion, is fantastic.

They are also willing to do a lot of custom specification. I was recently shown this pair of pants that they have done:

It is not my cup of tea but shows how willing they are to accommodate custom requests. In the past, I had to beg some tailors to entertain my custom request. Most tailors will tell you how the pants/buttonholes are standard and no other customers ever specified it before. I'm sick of begging them.

Having said that, I have minor issues regarding their suits. However, unlike existing established tailors, I believe they are hungry to accommodate and work the issues.

I think most people need to understand how HK tailors work. Almost all tailoring houses in HK do not manufacture their suits themselves. When speaking to a tailor, you need to ask them what processes are conducted in HK and China. For Lai, he cuts the suit himself and the finishing (pad stitching, buttonholes, etc) are done in China. I know that he outsources the production of pants out as well. I hear that Browns and Dreams Bespoke outsources their production to China - I do not know which aspect it outsourced though. WW Chan employs in house tailors that produces their suits. I hear that William Yu outsources their suits to a workshop in HK and is done completely by hand. Most HK tailors have more than one workshop they outsource to, so this is not a definitive guide. Every tailor mentioned in this thread have their own pros and cons.

Don't take our word for it. Go out and see their products with your own eyes.
 

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