The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

[kid1002]

For tassel loafers I ended up buying this from Mattina directly. I've been wanting to sell my Alden 664 with another textured or non-smooth pair of tassels.

This is Mattina's 'Rosseti' in black horween hatch grain leather. Size 41 with an additional layer of insoles added to each shoe.

I love Oct Tenth's Huang last, don't get me wrong, but I thought the slightly chiseled toe would not entirely work with more workwear-inspired looks that I would also like to wear with my tassels. The almond toe C last from Mattina would arguably work better.

 

[clee1982]

Only reason I would think of bothering go to OT factory is to get measured. Would be visiting in laws so got like a day or so in Shanghai, doubt I can detour to there

 

[clee1982]

chisel tassel is too sharp for me too, it would definitely be a second tassel. What’s wrong with Alden it’s pretty much the ideal tassel in the look department for me (unfortunately Aberdeen is a poor fit for me so that’s a no go)

 

[kid1002]

Only reason I would think of bothering go to OT factory is to get measured. Would be visiting in laws so got like a day or so in Shanghai, doubt I can detour to there

I haven't been to their factory as well. It's just too far away from the city.

Depending on how my MTO turns out I might visit them in the future. I've heard good things about their hospitality and professionalism. Will definitely share my experience here when I do.

chisel tassel is too sharp for me too, it would definitely be a second tassel. What’s wrong with Alden it’s pretty much the ideal tassel in the look department for me (unfortunately Aberdeen is a poor fit for me so that’s a no go)

Nothing's really wrong on the Aldens. I guess it's just my excuse to buy a new pair of loafers

With that being said, I think my love for Alden's short-vamped, Ivy-styled loafers had been lessened after I saw Seiji McCarthy's more elegant take on the style. This would be my grail item... One day...

 

[clee1982]

Oh yea I love how Seiji McCarthy’s full strap look

 

[kid1002]

I visited Roiluxe over the weekend. Roiluxe is the exclusive stockist of Oct Tenth RTW in China, and, fun fact, they were also the first stockist of Mattina before Mattina decided to open their own retail store in Shanghai.

I have a pair of dark brown suede single monks being MTOed (in the making), but I decided to try on a few pair of Oct Tenth's RTWs.

Shown in the below is Oct Tenth's 'Massenet' Tassel Loafers in black calf. It's in Oct Tenth's Huang last, which, in the brand's own words, "features a soft square toe and curved last shape that follows the natural form of the foot". This is also the last I'm having my single monks made in. I'm wearing a pair in size 6.5 here.

Overall I love the last shape, but it's a real pitty these just don't suit my feet off the rack. My right foot is half a size larger than my left, and my right foot also has a higher instep with a more prominent bone. The left shoe fits alright, but my right foot immediately felt some hyperemia after squeezing into the shoe.

I would say, however, it's still a relatively forgiving last for average folks and maybe even for those with only the slightest of flat-footedness.

My single monks will see a fitting shoe arrive roughly in a week time, and I'll likely ask Oct Tenth to make my right shoe half a size larger than the left.

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Continuing from this visit...

Here is the 'Ferguson' 5-eyelet derby in dark brown calf. This pair is also in the Huang last, but I tried on a pair in size 7 instead of 6.5 due to availability. I should definitely take a 6.5 for my left foot.

Not a big fan of derby shoes, and at RMB¥4,980 these are out of the question for me. Not bad per se, but just not for me.

 

[noverbeck]

I'm interested in getting a pair of CNES shoes after seeing them on the Parisian Gentleman/Sartorial Talks with Hugo Jacomet. I typically wear a size 6 UK and have a wide fore foot. I wear the following:

• Carmina Forest and Rain: 6
• Trickers 4444 and 4497: 6
• TLB Mallorca Goya and Van Gogh: 6

Their size chart indicates a 38 would work, does that seem in line with what others have experienced?

 

[kid1002]

I was inspired by Shuhei Nishiguchi's look in black suede brogues (his is from Cheaney), so I visited Mattina today to order a pair via their newest MTO program.

Initially I tried on the Mahler, a pair of N-last adelaide oxfords. The slightly chiseled toe but still short-vamped toe shape, in my perspective, is more resembling of what Shuhei wears.

The second pair I tried on was the Elgar, a pair of C-last semi-brogue oxfords. The C-last represents Mattina's most traditional last with an almond toe shape. I like the design here better than the Mahler's, but fit of the Elgar wasn't exactly to my liking.

I eventually chose the N-last to build my shoe upon not only for it's resemblence to the Cheaney shoes, but also for it's higher instep and therefore better comfort.

The lady in-store then wrote down my requests. Here's what I am to expect in 3 weeks time:
- N-last
- Design based on the Elgar (broguing and all that)
- Leather sole
- Black suede leather
- Size 41 with an additional pair of insoles to compensate for my slightly smaller left foot
- Additional broguing on the toe (using their existing design for their 'Berlioz' oxford) to mimic the Cheaney pair that Shuhei wears

 

[feijaocozido]

I haven't been to their factory as well. It's just too far away from the city.

Depending on how my MTO turns out I might visit them in the future. I've heard good things about their hospitality and professionalism. Will definitely share my experience here when I do.


Nothing's really wrong on the Aldens. I guess it's just my excuse to buy a new pair of loafers

With that being said, I think my love for Alden's short-vamped, Ivy-styled loafers had been lessened after I saw Seiji McCarthy's more elegant take on the style. This would be my grail item... One day...

I commissioned the Ethan loafer with Seiji in February during CNY. Lead time is long, 1 year for the first fitting and then another 6 months to a year for the final fitting. I have the Alden tassels in color 8 shell and snuff suede, and agree why bother with the Alden full strap when these exist.

 

[kid1002]

I commissioned the Ethan loafer with Seiji in February during CNY. Lead time is long, 1 year for the first fitting and then another 6 months to a year for the final fitting. I have the Alden tassels in color 8 shell and snuff suede, and agree why bother with the Alden full strap when these exist.

Congrats. Was this commissioned in HK?

I DMed Seiji back a few weeks ago and heard that he doesn't plan to come to the Mainland anytime soon. Bummer.

 

[feijaocozido]

Congrats. Was this commissioned in HK?

I DMed Seiji back a few weeks ago and heard that he doesn't plan to come to the Mainland anytime soon. Bummer.

Thank you, very excited for the final result. This was at his workshop in Tokyo. Does he go to HK? I know he also does trunk shows in NYC.

 

[kid1002]

Thank you, very excited for the final result. This was at his workshop in Tokyo. Does he go to HK? I know he also does trunk shows in NYC.

Ah ok I was told HK is in his future plans, just not Mainland China.

 

[kid1002]

I visited Roiluxe over the weekend. Roiluxe is the exclusive stockist of Oct Tenth RTW in China, and, fun fact, they were also the first stockist of Mattina before Mattina decided to open their own retail store in Shanghai.

I have a pair of dark brown suede single monks being MTOed (in the making), but I decided to try on a few pair of Oct Tenth's RTWs.

Shown in the below is Oct Tenth's 'Massenet' Tassel Loafers in black calf. It's in Oct Tenth's Huang last, which, in the brand's own words, "features a soft square toe and curved last shape that follows the natural form of the foot". This is also the last I'm having my single monks made in. I'm wearing a pair in size 6.5 here.

Overall I love the last shape, but it's a real pitty these just don't suit my feet off the rack. My right foot is half a size larger than my left, and my right foot also has a higher instep with a more prominent bone. The left shoe fits alright, but my right foot immediately felt some hyperemia after squeezing into the shoe.

I would say, however, it's still a relatively forgiving last for average folks and maybe even for those with only the slightest of flat-footedness.

My single monks will see a fitting shoe arrive roughly in a week time, and I'll likely ask Oct Tenth to make my right shoe half a size larger than the left.

View attachment 2159055 View attachment 2159057 View attachment 2159059 View attachment 2159061 View attachment 2159063

A follow-up to this MTO journey:

3/27 - MTO commissioned
4/12 - Received try-on shoes
4/15 - Consultation with cobbler via WeChat

I reiceved my try-on shoes after about two weeks. I commissioned the pair in size 41 to start things off, knowing my left foot is half size smaller at roughly about size 40.5, and have asked the Oct Tenth team to give me some additional roominess for my instep.

(Please excuse my dirty floor. Was too excited to try these shoes on without doing house keeping.)

At first glance, it's basically what I had commissioned for: an altered take on single monks with a chiseled toe.

This pair of try-on shoes were made in cheap leather without interlining, but eventually these are going to be made in dark brown Janus suede.

(I had a difficult time choosing between tan/sand Repello on the left and dark brown Janus on the right)

There are problems, however, and I am glad I spent additional money to have them make try-on shoes for me before going straight to a finished pair.

As you can see Oct Tenth basically made both shoes too long for me. I was able to fit about 1.5 fingers into the empty space at the heel, and I would say these were roughly half a size too large for me.

Upon consultation with their cobbler online, Oct Tenth proactively offered to make me a new pair of try-on shoes while having these old ones for me to keep.

I am expecting the new pair to arrive before May.

 

[Eddie.Lin]

Was able to visit Oct Tenth yesterday afternoon during my trip back in China. Tried on my trial shoes for a pair of shell tassel loafers and saw some new products from them as well..

and of course I decided to place an order for another pair....lol

 

[wjocon]

Hi all, first post here

Just received in a pair from Helen Shoemaker / Blazing Wonders today. Happy to say that I am pleased with the final result. I provided my measurements through Instagram and was a bit weary that it would not fit right but Helen seems to know her lasts very well. Considering i have a difficult foot to fit (narrow heel, wide width but low instep), the stock Z last holds my nicely with no heel slippage. To compare, I've put it next a pair of Oct. Tenth Adelaide oxfords on the Huang last which is the best shoe in my small but growing collection. I would say overall, I still prefer the fit & finish of Oct. Tenth Pair but you can't deny how good that sole looks.