The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[sam67]

No experience with bespoke shoe yet, but if I’m going bespoke, I’m definitely going for loafer just because I’m hard to fit in loafer in RTW (probably 80% of the problem is just left right size issue). Though just something simple like a dark brown dull strap in smooth calf...

Learned anything since your post? I'm in the same boat and just beginning to investigate.

 

[sam67]

^^^ Loafers are indeed more difficult to get the fit right (in general), than lace-ups. For two reasons, one being the obvious in that you don't have anything that can adjust things in any way, as laces, straps or elastics, and since it's already low margins when trying to achieve an excellent fitting bespoke shoe this adds another layer of low margin.

Secondly, the way you do loafer lasts is not really following the foot but adjusting things to get it to work for the shoe model, since you raise the instep and take of at the sides of the opening. This is to make it easier to get into the shoes. This means the makers sort of "have to do their own calculations" to an even larger extent then on shoe lasts, adding another layer of complexity. You can do loafers on shoe lasts as well, but not as common, due to the above (that said, the best fitting loafers I have is a RTW pair made on regular shoe lasts, works better for my feet. Sure, not as super easy to slide in and out of but with a shoehorn it's no problem. I've never done bespoke loafers though).

I believe loafers are treated differently by a lot of makers, some publicly state that you can't order loafers as first pair, some have no problem with it at all (know a maker who actually prefer doing loafers since he for some reason nails fit even better and easier on those). Some would charge extra if you order loafers after lace-ups or the other way around (since you have to make two different lasts and usually have a new fitting), some just make the new last no questions asked. Etc. Always talk to the maker, so all is clear, then should be no problem with things.

What is that RTW pair? I'm on the hunt.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

What is that RTW pair? I'm on the hunt.

TLB Mallorca Artista, these ones.

 

[sam67]

TLB Mallorca Artista, these ones.

Thanks. I actually have a pair of loafers from their main collection and they are the best fit I've found so far.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Thanks. I actually have a pair of loafers from their main collection and they are the best fit I've found so far.

Cool. They are made on a specialised loafers last though, which Artista isn't.

 

[clee1982]

Learned anything since your post? I'm in the same boat and just beginning to investigate.

not really, with COVID everything is just on pause, I don’t want to do remote, so whenever things resume normal globally I might start looking again.

 

[clee1982]

There are some efforts to bring this guy to NYC, his mtm (last modification) might be cheap enough for me to get a start?

Perticone-Bespoke (@perticone_official) • Instagram photos and videos

instagram.com

 

[Patrick1053]

I just received my first ever pair of bespoke shoes (mostly bespoke, they are from Wayman Bespoke. I went through two trial shoes before this final pair.) I wanted to start with a cheap (relatively speaking) rendition of a bespoke shoe before I join the cult definitively. Can anyone share their experience with how their first bespoke shoes fit, and how you think they should fit now (if you have already gone through several pairs)? Thank you!

 

[JohnMRobie]

I just received my first ever pair of bespoke shoes (mostly bespoke, they are from Wayman Bespoke. I went through two trial shoes before this final pair.) I wanted to start with a cheap (relatively speaking) rendition of a bespoke shoe before I join the cult definitively. Can anyone share their experience with how their first bespoke shoes fit, and how you think they should fit now (if you have already gone through several pairs)? Thank you!

Pics or it didn’t happen

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I just received my first ever pair of bespoke shoes (mostly bespoke, they are from Wayman Bespoke. I went through two trial shoes before this final pair.) I wanted to start with a cheap (relatively speaking) rendition of a bespoke shoe before I join the cult definitively. Can anyone share their experience with how their first bespoke shoes fit, and how you think they should fit now (if you have already gone through several pairs)? Thank you!

Everyone's fit preferences are different or at least one's definition of tightness varies.
That said, tight from the heel to the ball. Loose or should have freedom for the toes. Hopefully tight enough where there's no heel slip. I like my shoes to fit like a wet suit. Where my toes are the "head" opening of the suit, and the rest of the foot or "body" is skin tight.

 

[dieworkwear]

I just received my first ever pair of bespoke shoes (mostly bespoke, they are from Wayman Bespoke. I went through two trial shoes before this final pair.) I wanted to start with a cheap (relatively speaking) rendition of a bespoke shoe before I join the cult definitively. Can anyone share their experience with how their first bespoke shoes fit, and how you think they should fit now (if you have already gone through several pairs)? Thank you!

First pair from Templeman seemed to fit well, but then after a few months, I found the facings were a bit tight on the right foot. He fixed them for me later and they now fit well.

Second pair from Templeman fit well.

Third pair I just received and haven't really worn because of COVID. But I assume if I have issues, he'll fix them later.

First pair from Cleverley fit terribly and I could fit a whole finger down the back. Ended up getting a refund.

I've heard from friends that you can't expect a perfect fit on the first order. I don't know what "perfect" means, as that seems slightly subjective. But I wouldn't order bespoke shoes if I thought the first order was some kind of "trial run." Like with bespoke suits and sport coats, I accept that sometimes there may be things that are "off" in terms of design -- maybe I would have preferred a sleeker or rounder last, or I wish I choose a different material. Just like how sometimes you realize you wish a tailor pressed the seam outlet on the shoulder inward vs outward. But I expect custom clothes to fit perfectly in a technical aspect.

If you have concerns, I would raise them with the shoemaker, but in a polite way. Part of what you're paying for is the person's service and expertise.

 

[Texasmade]

I just received my first ever pair of bespoke shoes (mostly bespoke, they are from Wayman Bespoke. I went through two trial shoes before this final pair.) I wanted to start with a cheap (relatively speaking) rendition of a bespoke shoe before I join the cult definitively. Can anyone share their experience with how their first bespoke shoes fit, and how you think they should fit now (if you have already gone through several pairs)? Thank you!

I jumped into bespoke shoes with John Lobb Paris. My first pair had way too much room in the vamp. They took the shoes back and remade the uppers to fix properly. For my 2nd pair, I had them redo the toe shapes since I wasn't happy with the overall shape. The 2nd pair I have with JLP, I'm fairly happy overall with the shoes.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I just received my first ever pair of bespoke shoes (mostly bespoke, they are from Wayman Bespoke. I went through two trial shoes before this final pair.) I wanted to start with a cheap (relatively speaking) rendition of a bespoke shoe before I join the cult definitively. Can anyone share their experience with how their first bespoke shoes fit, and how you think they should fit now (if you have already gone through several pairs)? Thank you!

Incidentally, you never mentioned how yours fit. Better, the same, or worse than your RTW footwear?

 

[Psyko]

So how tight do you like the arch support to be? I don't have any bespoke yet, but have some Saint Crispin's with an elongated heel cap. There is some slight space between my arch and the heel cap, though. I imagine in good bespoke it's supposed to fit tighter so that it completely follows the curve of the arch, with little space between the heel cap and arch? How much pressure do you feel from the elongated heel cap on the arch?

Also, in terms of heel fit, there is absolutely no heel slip, but there is some space between the bottom of my heel and the bottom of the heel cap. As in, the heel cap is wider at the bottom, then curves in nicely to hug the top of my heel. That is completely fine by me. In good bespoke, though, does the heel cap completely hug the heel, with no space between the heel and the heel cap at the bottom? If that makes sense...

 

[Concordia]

Where would you start for loafers? RTW not really working out due to width differences in my feet. Any info is appreciated. Thanks

You can do MTO from Crockett & Jones (my first choice), as well as Edward Green and probably others.
Don't know how cool Alden would be about this. You'd need a retailer who can find the different widths as try-ons before even trying to make a special order.