The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

[A Y]

Derek is correct that I was a client of Tom Mahon back in his English Cut days, and am having a brief dalliance with Steed for a bespoke DB dinner suit (interrupted by the pandemic), but I'm going to meet Tom on Redmayne's upcoming US tour for a sportcoat. I do like what Tom's cut for me, and I really liked what he's done in the traditional 80s/90s A&S style, but as Derek points out, it's unclear if he can still produce such garments since the tailoring (the sewing and construction) is as much responsible for that look as the cutting.

We'll see what he says, but a big part of why I'm going back is because I like Tom personally, and he appears to be the only travelling tailor who could produce that old A&S look, so I'm going to try to get some of that before he retires.

For MTM, I haven't seen the Steed stuff except in photos, and I've only seen (and tried on) Tom's prototype MTM when he was at EC, and was using Indian tailors. That MTM was remarkable in how much it resembled his bespoke line in both look and feel. If he managed to keep that in his Redmayne MTM, that would be amazing, but I haven't seen his Redmayne stuff.

 

[corpseposeur]

They wouldn't remake the coat to fix the lapels?

To be fair to Steed, I haven't had the chance to address this with them. I commissioned the jacket just before the pandemic hit so they haven't been able to travel till now. But yes, I should take it to them to see what they can do.

 

[Despos]

To be fair to Steed, I haven't had the chance to address this with them. I commissioned the jacket just before the pandemic hit so they haven't been able to travel till now. But yes, I should take it to them to see what they can do.

The rolled edge of the lapel is the break line. This determines the lapel width and where you would adjust lapel width on a finished garment.
When you set the collar you align the fold in the under collar to the break line. If there is 1/4" difference in lapel width, the break line is moved to make the lapel wider or narrower and the collar reset to the new break line. If it's less than 1/4" it may be corrected with pressing. Pressing may be enough or it may be temporary and return to the original width. If so, the collar has to be adjusted to the new line.

 

[bourbonbasted]

Broke out teh Steed over the weekend. Glad to finally be able to start dressin'.

 

[9thsymph]

Disappointed Steed aren't making a trip to Chicago this time around. Hopefully they'll add it back to their tours in the not-too-distant future...

 

[jimney]

Disappointed Steed aren't making a trip to Chicago this time around. Hopefully they'll add it back to their tours in the not-too-distant future...

They told me they’ll be back for their next tour, late January.

 

[mrdXCIII]

Derek is correct that I was a client of Tom Mahon back in his English Cut days, and am having a brief dalliance with Steed for a bespoke DB dinner suit (interrupted by the pandemic), but I'm going to meet Tom on Redmayne's upcoming US tour for a sportcoat. I do like what Tom's cut for me, and I really liked what he's done in the traditional 80s/90s A&S style, but as Derek points out, it's unclear if he can still produce such garments since the tailoring (the sewing and construction) is as much responsible for that look as the cutting.

We'll see what he says, but a big part of why I'm going back is because I like Tom personally, and he appears to be the only travelling tailor who could produce that old A&S look, so I'm going to try to get some of that before he retires.

For MTM, I haven't seen the Steed stuff except in photos, and I've only seen (and tried on) Tom's prototype MTM when he was at EC, and was using Indian tailors. That MTM was remarkable in how much it resembled his bespoke line in both look and feel. If he managed to keep that in his Redmayne MTM, that would be amazing, but I haven't seen his Redmayne stuff.

My research thus far has led me to believe that the Redmayne MTM actually has more drape than the equivalent at Steed.

At this rate, I'll be flip-flopping between the two alternatives until I've cobbled up enough for Steed bespoke.?

 

[Mark from Plano]

Met with the Steed boys when they were in Dallas on Wednesday. We did a fit check on my new MTM tuxedo and a forward fitting on a new bespoke navy blazer.

Both looked great. The tux jacket needed just a nip in the waist but jacket and trousers were otherwise perfect. We agreed that I’d have that done by my local alterations tailor so that I’d have it for an event coming up in a couple of weeks.

The blazer is really fantastic. Not finished of course but at this point Edwin has me down so well that the adjustments were minor.

Sadly, no pics of either, but perhaps soon.

 

[Flake]

My research thus far has led me to believe that the Redmayne MTM actually has more drape than the equivalent at Steed.

At this rate, I'll be flip-flopping between the two alternatives until I've cobbled up enough for Steed bespoke.?

My Steed jackets, including MTM, have a LOT of drape.

 

[Mark from Plano]

Pictures from Wednesday’s fitting with Steed. Please disregard the trouser jacket mismatch. The jacket we’re fitting is a new navy blazer. The trousers I’m wearing are from a Steed MTM suit I wore to the fitting. Not meant to be worn together.

Wound up selecting a Harrison’s English Bulldog lining and some monogrammed sterling silver Benson & Clegg buttons to finish it out.

 

[nmprisons]

Disappointed Steed aren't making a trip to Chicago this time around. Hopefully they'll add it back to their tours in the not-too-distant future...

I think they had to cut it short because of a narrow window between when the US opened its border to UK travel and when the holidays started.

 

[ericgereghty]

Because people love the cut of the jackets so much, I think Steed's bespoke trousers don't get enough attention. They're exceptional. But £600 is nothing to sneeze at.

One thing to talk with them about if you want to do this is the risk of variation in the fabric. I think the factory might buy separately from Steed itself, in which case the jacket and pants could be made with pieces from two different bolts. You should just check with Edwin and Matthew about it.

Out of curiosity, what are some of the differences (cost and handwork as the obvious standouts) between the two? Are there notable stylistic differences, or I suppose restrictions, when it comes to the MTM side of the aisle?

 

[mrdXCIII]

My Steed jackets, including MTM, have a LOT of drape.

Forgive me for asking but would you be so kind as to post photographs of your MTM pieces if you have any?

 

[Flake]

Forgive me for asking but would you be so kind as to post photographs of your MTM pieces if you have any?

I don’t have any pics but will try to get a few for you

 

[Mr. Six]

Out of curiosity, what are some of the differences (cost and handwork as the obvious standouts) between the two? Are there notable stylistic differences, or I suppose restrictions, when it comes to the MTM side of the aisle?

It's been a while since I got a MTM suit from them, so I'm not sure what the current stylistic limits might be. I'll try to remember to ask tomorrow. Let me know if there's something specific you're interested in.

The differences that I've noted start with Edwin (I'm assuming) just making a slightly more conforming pattern for bespoke than MTM, and also that there's a bit more--and I apologize for introducing the word--elegance to the shape. I think they use slightly nicer materials for the interior parts of the bespoke pants, like in the waistband. The overall effect is that bespoke feels lighter without also feeling lesser. And then there are a few details that are different like a cloth cover for the braces buttons so that they don't press directly against you. It's dumb but I kind of love that.