Tell me about this mohair-wool blend

[jack220]

Does an 80% wool, 20% summer kid mohair 240gm wrinkle easily? This will be a summer suit.

How does it 'handle'? Soft and smooth?

Will a higher summer kid mohair % make it more wrinkle resistant, but more 'crisp'?

 

[Montauk]

My mohair/wool suits are 15% mohair and hardly wrinkle at all. Not "soft and smooth," but cool and crisp--I wish I had a closetful for summer.

 

[jack220]

I've seen some with 60% summer kid mohair, 40% wool, and I wonder how that handles?

I know it will depend on how its weaved etc, but based solely on the composition, would it be right to say that a higher % summer kid mohair would make it 'crisper', cooler(?) and more wrinkle resistant?

 

[alliswell]

Yes. Also shinier. 60% will be very shiny.

 

[ApplesHK]

Here's something from A Suitable Wardrobe last year that will answer your questions.

Mohair has been used in the West since the 16th century, when
Charles V first brought angora goats to Europe. The delicacy of
the species made mohair relatively rare as well as expensive and
five hundred years later it is still a luxury fiber, like cashmere and
silk, and considerably more expensive than most wool.
It is more expensive because, young or old, those delicate goats
must receive a great deal of attention in between their semi annual
shearings. The finer hair from younger animals is
particularly prized for clothing, with kid mohair commanding a
premium over the stuff from adult goats.
In suiting cloth, mohair shares an important characteristic with
linen. That is, it absorbs and releases moisture, moving
perspiration away from the skin, which makes it more
comfortable than wool in hot weather. It also resists wrinkles
better than wool, though when mohair does wrinkle the cloth
must be ironed or steamed as the wrinkles will not fall out on their
own.
Of the mohair that is in current production, Smith and Co
(Woollens) has a couple mohair blends in its formal wear book
that represent what may be the best use of the stuff. Of course, it is
also used successfully in daywear, particularly in blends of 40%
mohair or even less where its sheen is minimized by the wool.
Indeed, Scabal's high twist mohair and wool blend has little sheen
and wears exactly like a fresco, which is both good and bad since
allwool frescos cost considerably less per meter.
But, as I wrote in the beginning, the silky sheen of mohair is at its
best in the evening.

 

[David Reeves]

I adore Mohair. http://davidreevesbespoke.wordpress....-tonik-mohair/

mohair 3 piece by davidreeves1979, on Flickr[/IMG] DAVID REEVES MODERN ENGLISH TAILOR Check out My Blog: http://davidreevesbespoke.wordpress.com/

 

[taxgenius]

I love the Tonik but it's very expensive cloth.

 

[jack220]

Originally Posted by ApplesHK

Here's something from A Suitable Wardrobe last year that will answer your questions.

Mohair has been used in the West since the 16th century, when
Charles V first brought angora goats to Europe. The delicacy of
the species made mohair relatively rare as well as expensive and
five hundred years later it is still a luxury fiber, like cashmere and
silk, and considerably more expensive than most wool.
It is more expensive because, young or old, those delicate goats
must receive a great deal of attention in between their semi annual
shearings. The finer hair from younger animals is
particularly prized for clothing, with kid mohair commanding a
premium over the stuff from adult goats.
In suiting cloth, mohair shares an important characteristic with
linen. That is, it absorbs and releases moisture, moving
perspiration away from the skin, which makes it more
comfortable than wool in hot weather. It also resists wrinkles
better than wool, though when mohair does wrinkle the cloth
must be ironed or steamed as the wrinkles will not fall out on their
own.
Of the mohair that is in current production, Smith and Co
(Woollens) has a couple mohair blends in its formal wear book
that represent what may be the best use of the stuff. Of course, it is
also used successfully in daywear, particularly in blends of 40%
mohair or even less where its sheen is minimized by the wool.
Indeed, Scabal's high twist mohair and wool blend has little sheen
and wears exactly like a fresco, which is both good and bad since
allwool frescos cost considerably less per meter.
But, as I wrote in the beginning, the silky sheen of mohair is at its
best in the evening.


Very informative thank you.

According to another thread (SF or other cant remember) in terms of making up:
1. Smiths / Scabal(not sure which book)
2. Dugdales / Thomas Fisher

How does H&S Mohair (100's wool and summer kid mohair 240gm) compare?

 

[Xenon]

Originally Posted by David Reeves

I adore Mohair.

http://davidreevesbespoke.wordpress....-tonik-mohair/

mohair 3 piece by davidreeves1979, on Flickr[/IMG]

DAVID REEVES MODERN ENGLISH TAILOR

Check out My Blog:

http://davidreevesbespoke.wordpress.com/

I have to say David, that you creat some really beautiful garments.

 

[David Reeves]

Originally Posted by taxgenius

I love the Tonik but it's very expensive cloth.


Yes it is rather, I have been wanting a suit made from it for about five years. Glad I got one though, I don't think it will be my last.

They also do an even more expensive Mohair called Phantom.