Split Toe Derby

[GT-R]

You wouldn't pick the ugly sister over the better looking, sexier sister on the basis that the ugly one is "easier". It's the same situation here. Always go for the best and nothing less.

 

[Wingtip77]

I ended up getting the Edward Green Dover too....

 

[aj2603]

I recently stumbled upon this Thread.. And i am in the same spot.

Initially i never liked the split toe derby. But over time i have stared to like them a lot. I have done a lot of research and was even thinking of starting a thread about them.

But gladly, this already exists. So i will share some of my findings and opinions here:

Let me start of by saying, if u can afford it, then go for the EG Dover. The last is perfectly balanced. Craftsmanship is second to none. and it was, is and will always be a timeless classic.

 

[aj2603]

Now obviously, Budget is a major driving factor behind what shoes we buy and TBH you should not be financially irresponsible when it comes to shoes (i am a hypocrite for saying that). But you should spend on what you can afford and not buy something that compromises some other much more important financial engagement.

My second choice: Gaziano & Girling Isham

What more can you say about G&G. By far they have been one of the most influential shoemakers of the decade. There sense of design is brilliant. And they just make a lovely pair of shoes. The design, like all other G&G shoes has been modernised which may or may not be everyones cup of tea. But i think i looks good. If u like a chiseled last, u can't go wrong with these.

 

[aj2603]

My third choice would be Saint Crispins Mod 633.

Lovely Shoes. Hand welted with a stunning texture and colour to the upper. This is their most balanced design IMO.

Special Mention to their 508HA Model And their 580A, which look incredible to me

 

[boot_owl]

My third choice would be Saint Crispins Mod 633.

Lovely Shoes. Hand welted with a stunning texture and colour to the upper. This is their most balanced design IMO.

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Special Mention to their 508HA Model And their 580A, which look incredible to me

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I’d say that st crispins is different as it is not a pie crust apron. As for EG craftsmanship being second to none, two words: Hiro Yanagimachi

 

[aj2603]

My next choice (BTW, this is in no specific order. I am writing this as i remember things) would be Joe Works.

Joe Works is a Japanese RTW/MTO manufacturer. Joe Works has quickly made a name for themselves both in Japan and internationally. Their level of craftmanship and attention to detail makes a perfect recipe for really great shoes.

They have two Lasts. Last JOE-0 and Last JOE-6. The JOE-0 last is a more sleek and dress shoe last. Whereas the JOE-6 is a slightly more bulky and casual shoe/boot last.

JOE-0 Last

JOE-6 Last

 

[aj2603]

I’d say that st crispins is different as it is not a pie crust apron. As for EG craftsmanship being second to none, two words: Hiro Yanagimachi

Hiro Yanagimachi was on my list as well (BTW my list is massive. i have done a lot of research on the net).. since u have mentioned them.. I will talk about them next

Hiro Yanagimachi is one of the pioneers of the new wave of Japanese bespoke shoemakers. He started as an industrial designer, but left his job to work with his great passion: classic shoes. He started his brand in 1999 after being trained as a shoe designer and shoemaker in England at the London College of Fashion and at legendary John Lobb Ltd. Back then, at the end of the last century, there were only a few Japanese bespoke shoemakers, who mostly lived and worked quite anonymously. Today there are well over 50 and the Japanese market is considered the most important in the world. His workshop is located in the Sendagaya area of Tokyo, where Mr. Yanagimachi and his staff do everything in-house. Along with him, there are seven employees. Everything is made by them from beginning to end. The house runs a MTO, a MTM and a bespoke service.

The brand offers three different types of orders (prices excl. 8% VAT):
– Made To Order (MTO), prices in Japan start at about €1 060 (140 000 yen). It uses existing lasts, and for us Europeans or Americans it is his new international last that is of interest, since it’s made to fit our type of feet. At the moment it’s only available in a version with a round toe, quite neat and elegant, and a version with a chiseled toe is being developed. As base model you can select one of the oxfords, derbies or lazymans they offer, and you can then choose leather, construction details, etc. (more on that below).
– Made to Measure (MTM)/semi bespoke, starting in Japan at €1 900 (250 000 yen) for the first order. This is made with some modifications to the last after the customer’s feet. Besides loafers, you can choose any model whatsoever, including for example boots and monk shoes and you can make modifications to existing designs. No fitting, excluding boots.
– Bespoke, cost in Japan is from €2 650 (350 000 yen) for the first pair. Full bespoke, a completely individual last is made up and you can select any model type whatsoever. At least one fitting is required, often more than that.

I think Japan is now the pinnacle of shoe and boot making. The attention to detail, the obsession with design and the quality control is second to none.

L-03 Model

L-09 Model

L11

L-33 Model

 

[aj2603]

As for EG craftsmanship being second to none, two words: Hiro Yanagimachi

I can't argue that bespoke brands and Japanese brand do lot of things better. No arguments with u there.

Let me put it another way. For a RTW shoe, which is widely available (comparatively) on various websites and lots of physical stores. I think EG is a very good option. I would say one of the best. Especially if u r patient and grab them on a sale (which they do sometime go on)

 

[aj2603]

Next on my list is Foster & Sons RTW line.

I don't need to speak much about Foster & Sons. It is an English institution.

In their RTW line is "The Keble". It is a handsome shoe. It has a well balanced last and since it is Foster & Sons, i am sure materials and construction will be excellent.

 

[aj2603]

Next up is another Japanese Brand: Miyagi Kogyo.

These are excellent shoes for the price. For something around 600-800 USD these represent excellent value for a Japanese Brand. Since it is made in Japan, u can expect the quality to be excellent.

 

[wdrenth]

I think that @Sons of Henrey (thread here, website here) has a more than decent split toe derby in its collection, in some interesting leathers.

 

[aj2603]

I think that @Sons of Henrey (thread here, website here) has a more than decent split toe derby in its collection, in some interesting leathers.

yes. they have a good split toe derby. they use utah calf (same as some models of EG).

they have a decently balanced last. But the Apron is not hand stitched and i have seen some pics with not so great stitching of the split and apron.

That being said. They are excellent shoes for that price. For a sub 400 Euro shoes they represent excellent quality. And if that was my budget and i wanted a split toe derby.. that is the one i would go for

 

[aj2603]

I'll continue with my list...

Next up : The five-eyelet Zonkey Boot split-toe Norwegian derby on the Classic last is made from Russian Reindeer.

Now i am also a bit unsure what they mean when they say Russian Reindeer. Because as far as i know only George Cleaverly has access to Russian Reindeer as authorised by the Prince of Wales.

Never the less.. these r good looking shoes

 

[aj2603]

Next Up is one of my personal favourite shoes and one of my favourite maker.

Antonio Meccariello is a magician. He is one of the best shoe designers around. His shoes are excellent and are amazingly priced. Since he is Italian, it is easy to see that Italian flair in his shoes. He makes them is a couple of lasts. A chiseled and a round last. Depending on what u want he has both