SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[emptym]

A bit more insight on this prototype dubbed “Summer Oxford”.

Spoiler

It’s a 4 season shirt. A bit heavy for a true summer shirt, but what isn’t this year?
It would be my ideal daily cloth of choice as a year round option for my given dress code. Even over the lighter twills like Monti which I love and use a lot. The oxford lends itself better to chinos, cords, and jeans. Which I basically live in for office use.

What does it for me is 2 things,

1, the softness out of the box. The following pics are sartorial sins. I hung this for 2 days on a hanger and am now wearing it. No wash, no iron.
As you can see, pretty wrinkle resistant. Reminds me of Epaulets Somelos salt wash oxford. But this one is softer and lighter out of the box.

2, the contemporary 15 fit. I’ve gained some weight, and also adjusted my style a bit as a result the past couple years. No longer looking for such form fitted pieces, going back to more classic silhouettes for my figure. I’m currently 160-165 and 5’8” with a 39” chest. Seriously lacking a workout regiment. I’d say 10 lbs overweight, from a former leaner, stronger version of myself.

Back to the fit of the 15 Contemp, armholes have more range of motion, hips are waist are wider, which is great. It’s fitted, but it isn’t slim. I’m okay with this.
I normally MTM. But my last few shirts made up smaller then I like and right now are too snug in the pits and waist. No good. I like to think I can now have an OTR size (maybe) for shirting.

Details are nice. The shirring on the yolk would certainly look cooler on a sartorial peacock then me, but Im okay with it. This is one of those details that the Gen pop won’t comprehend, and look oddly at.
If I ordered these MTO, I’d skip it.
Shirred shoulder is cool. Mine is not laying proper because of the factory fold and my lack of willingness to wash and iron it. But it will look great once done.

MOP buttons, as always impress, and the crowsfoot stitch is attractive. All nice details really.
Collar is soft and stands grand on my frame. Very nice!

Overall these oxfords are way better then the brushed oxford of the past IMO, and I’d be happy to wear them year round.

The only negative, is going to be the wait for the cloth in new colours.

I really need to invest in a stand for my phone and take better photos at a distance.

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Thanks for this. Interesting style choices for the shirt. Personally, I like shirring, but only for the sleeve head, where it helps with one's range of motion. When it's also on the yolk, it looks too Renaissance fest or pirate-y to me. But that could be a look people go for. I do like Black Sails and Game of Thrones and kind of want a faded black linen shirt and oatmeal one (both w/ shirring), due to those shows, respectively.

To me, OCBDs should have a box pleat at the back, as well as a regular placket up front, and a pocket, probably with a button, possibly with a flap, like J. Press. But maybe I'm just too much of a traditionalist.

Crowsfoot stitching is for more Italian shirts with spread or cutaway collars imo. I'd much rather have shanks, for their practical functions of making buttoning a tiny bit easier and providing a bit of give throughout the day.

Those five underlined things would be my suggestions for S&M.

 

[spiermackay]

Thanks for this. Interesting style choices for the shirt. Personally, I like shirring, but only for the sleeve head, where it helps with one's range of motion. When it's also on the yolk, it looks too Renaissance fest or pirate-y to me. But that could be a look people go for. I do like Black Sails and Game of Thrones and kind of want a faded black linen shirt and oatmeal one, both w/ shirring due to those shows, respectively.

To me, OCBDs should have a box pleat at the back, as well as a regular placket up front, and a pocket, probably with a button, possibly with a flap, like J. Press. But maybe I'm just too much of a traditionalist.

Crowsfoot stitching is for more Italian shirts with spread or cutaway collars imo. I'd much rather have shanks, for their practical functions of making buttoning a tiny bit easier and providing a bit of give throughout the day.

Those five underlined things would be my suggestions for S&M.

This was us just f'n around. More about playing around with the new cloth than anything else.

 

[lax101]

are there fewer fabrics available for custom shirts now than I remember, or is the filter/selection tool just broken right now?

 

[FlyingHorker]

This was us just f'n around. More about playing around with the new cloth than anything else.

will the collar be the same for the retail version?

also, I apologize because I keep forgetting this, but do I order 15-34 slim if the old 15 slims fit me well in the sleeves?

are there fewer fabrics available for custom shirts now than I remember, or is the filter/selection tool just broken right now?

there are, apparently they're overhauling the selection and system.

 

[Betelgeuse]

I had my tailor shorten 1 cm on the sleeves from the shoulders. I think he messed up the shirring/puckering. They are gone, correct?

View attachment 1019491

I think he did. My tailor when he corrected the divot issue on my green slun and brown check from last F/W the shirring was also gone. To be honest, I don't know if he didn't know how to make the shirring again or, that because of the correction they had to be gone.

Any ideas?

 

[AntiHero84]

Seriously excited for the summer oxfords! My blues need replacing -- one already has a hole in the elbow.

I don't totally understand the crowsfoot stitching, but PLEASE make the thread white. There's a couple tattersall shirts that I would have loved to purchase, but the colored stitching on the buttons killed it. Might have to just save up for MTM...

 

[spiermackay]

Seriously excited for the summer oxfords! My blues need replacing -- one already has a hole in the elbow.

I don't totally understand the crowsfoot stitching, but PLEASE make the thread white. There's a couple tattersall shirts that I would have loved to purchase, but the colored stitching on the buttons killed it. Might have to just save up for MTM...

The summer oxfords won't be out until next summer. OTR will pretty much just be the same as our normal OTR oxfords, just a change of cloth.

RE: Button thread, you can easily change the button thread colour.

 

[RickyTakhar]

The summer oxfords won't be out until next summer. OTR will pretty much just be the same as our normal OTR oxfords, just a change of cloth.

RE: Button thread, you can easily change the button thread colour.

Rick,

With the MTO will there be shirt options along with the suits/ sportcoats/ trousers?

Im imagining the ability to choose fabric, collar etc and a standard size e.g. 15 slim

 

[varsityreds0123]

Apart from a nice collar, fabric and a good fit, I've never been crazy about other details on shirts, seeing as I rarely ever wear them without suit jacket or sport coat. I guess these added options are nice, but it's not a selling point for me, personally.

 

[tricky]

A bit more insight on this prototype dubbed “Summer Oxford”.

It’s a 4 season shirt. A bit heavy for a true summer shirt, but what isn’t this year?
It would be my ideal daily cloth of choice as a year round option for my given dress code. Even over the lighter twills like Monti which I love and use a lot. The oxford lends itself better to chinos, cords, and jeans. Which I basically live in for office use.

What does it for me is 2 things,

1, the softness out of the box. The following pics are sartorial sins. I hung this for 2 days on a hanger and am now wearing it. No wash, no iron.
As you can see, pretty wrinkle resistant. Reminds me of Epaulets Somelos salt wash oxford. But this one is softer and lighter out of the box.

2, the contemporary 15 fit. I’ve gained some weight, and also adjusted my style a bit as a result the past couple years. No longer looking for such form fitted pieces, going back to more classic silhouettes for my figure. I’m currently 160-165 and 5’8” with a 39” chest. Seriously lacking a workout regiment. I’d say 10 lbs overweight, from a former leaner, stronger version of myself.

Back to the fit of the 15 Contemp, armholes have more range of motion, hips are waist are wider, which is great. It’s fitted, but it isn’t slim. I’m okay with this.
I normally MTM. But my last few shirts made up smaller then I like and right now are too snug in the pits and waist. No good. I like to think I can now have an OTR size (maybe) for shirting.

Details are nice. The shirring on the yolk would certainly look cooler on a sartorial peacock then me, but Im okay with it. This is one of those details that the Gen pop won’t comprehend, and look oddly at.
If I ordered these MTO, I’d skip it.
Shirred shoulder is cool. Mine is not laying proper because of the factory fold and my lack of willingness to wash and iron it. But it will look great once done.

MOP buttons, as always impress, and the crowsfoot stitch is attractive. All nice details really.
Collar is soft and stands grand on my frame. Very nice!

Overall these oxfords are way better then the brushed oxford of the past IMO, and I’d be happy to wear them year round.

The only negative, is going to be the wait for the cloth in new colours.

I really need to invest in a stand for my phone and take better photos at a distance.

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Even softer than the salt washed Somaleos!? Totally in for that.

 

[adelorenzo]

@CanadaCal Thanks for that summer oxford review. Those sound right up my alley, based on that I will buy those shirts by the truckload if they make them in extra slim fit and with a decent variety of colours/patterns.

 

[dnugget]

The summer oxford looks amazing.

With the MTO will there be shirt options along with the suits/ sportcoats/ trousers?

I'm also very excited for the refresh of the MTO refresh - hope there will be suit / sportcoat / trouser options for the MTO.. At least the option to view swatches online would be amazing.

 

[An Acute Style]

The summer oxfords won't be out until next summer. OTR will pretty much just be the same as our normal OTR oxfords, just a change of cloth.

RE: Button thread, you can easily change the button thread colour.

I know you're calling these new shirts Summer oxfords, but IMO these should be the regular oxfords.
I hear the current oxfords on offer wear just as warm as the brushed oxfords of old so these both should be called Winter oxfords. I know it's cold in Canada so maybe people want the heavier oxfords, but they're too much for me in NYC.

 

[7_rocket]

I know you're calling these new shirts Summer oxfords, but IMO these should be the regular oxfords.
I hear the current oxfords on offer wear just as warm as the brushed oxfords of old so these both should be called Winter oxfords. I know it's cold in Canada so maybe people want the heavier oxfords, but they're too much for me in NYC.

I concur with this. The current oxfords are too heavy for summer. And if you guys do wear them in summer, ya'll crazy

Also, the last few posts. You guys are one picky ass bunch.

 

[CanadaCal]

I know you're calling these new shirts Summer oxfords, but IMO these should be the regular oxfords.
I hear the current oxfords on offer wear just as warm as the brushed oxfords of old so these both should be called Winter oxfords. I know it's cold in Canada so maybe people want the heavier oxfords, but they're too much for me in NYC.

It should be sold as a regular oxford. You could call it broken in, but I think J crew has that covered.

And most of Canada has the same weather as NYC. Or at lest where most of the population lives.
We need the same things...

I don’t like thick or warm shirts, Flannels aside.

If I had thick shirts I’d never get to wear my sweaters.