SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[jamie411]

Thanks for all of the great suggestions guys. I've had a charcoal suit in my rotation about 40 years. Just looking to add options with trouser separates in a color I do not have, but sort of blanked on what to do with charcoal trousers. The char. suit is easy. Add white shirt and any tie. Voila.

Anyway, lots of good suggestions, I'm going to grab the VBC trousers and just experiment. Appreciate the suggestions

Thought this Put This On article might be useful if you’re on the fence: http://putthison.com/post/46426002004/not-as-useful-as-youd-think-when-youre-first

Specifically, interesting to note this quote regarding charcoal trousers:
“It’s tempting then to get them in almost every shade imaginable, but let me forewarn you: the darker the gray, the less useful the trousers, especially as you approach charcoal.

That’s because charcoal trousers have a limited range of what jackets they can be teamed with. There are two that I can think of: the first are certain shades of light to mid-brown, as seen above. However, the darker the brown, the less contrast there will be between your trousers and sport coat (which is bad). That lack of contrast, incidentally, is why navy sport coats should never be worn with charcoal trousers, and given the usefulness of navy jackets, this fact alone should be cause of some concern.”

That said, I have them and as others mentioned they’re great with knits (looks great with tan and camel), and lighter jackets.

 

[James1051]

Thought this Put This On article might be useful if you’re on the fence: http://putthison.com/post/46426002004/not-as-useful-as-youd-think-when-youre-first

Specifically, interesting to note this quote regarding charcoal trousers:
“It’s tempting then to get them in almost every shade imaginable, but let me forewarn you: the darker the gray, the less useful the trousers, especially as you approach charcoal.

That’s because charcoal trousers have a limited range of what jackets they can be teamed with. There are two that I can think of: the first are certain shades of light to mid-brown, as seen above. However, the darker the brown, the less contrast there will be between your trousers and sport coat (which is bad). That lack of contrast, incidentally, is why navy sport coats should never be worn with charcoal trousers, and given the usefulness of navy jackets, this fact alone should be cause of some concern.”

That said, I have them and as others mentioned they’re great with knits (looks great with tan and camel), and lighter jackets.

very interesting, thank you.

 

[Claghorn]

Re charcoal pants: I’d say that must be one of the most versatile options out there. Even more so than navy. The only thing to avoid is a charcoal jacket, and be cautious when mixing greys and browns (can look great but can also not).

In terms of standard colors for dress pants, charcoal is one of the least versatile colors out there, and navy is even less versatile.

In part, both are colors strongly associated with suits and thus are not ideal for odd trousers. Additionally, they are both very dark, and while one certainly can wear trousers darker than the jacket, it is much trickier than wearing a jacket darker than the pants. I can think of far more uses for mid-gray and light gray trousers.

This is not to say there is no room for charcoal trousers, only that charcoal should probably be a low priority, purchased after developing a well rounded rotation of trousers.

I own 7 pairs of gray trousers, and the darkest is still lighter than charcoal:

(incidentally, SM shirt)

 

[Claghorn]

If I were starting a trouser rotation from scratch buying only from SM, this would be my first ten, in purchase order and with an emphasis on color. If you generally like the way I dress, this might be useful (if we have different sensibilities, it might be less useful).

Spoiler

 

[kulata]

Replace number 3 with the lovat moleskin which pairs well with fall jackets. Very light grey flannels aren't that versatile either. Hard to wear them in the fall/winter season.

White linen, beige or dove grey linen should be somewhere there if Spier carried either.

 

[James1051]

In terms of standard colors for dress pants, charcoal is one of the least versatile colors out there, and navy is even less versatile.

In part, both are colors strongly associated with suits and thus are not ideal for odd trousers. Additionally, they are both very dark, and while one certainly can wear trousers darker than the jacket, it is much trickier than wearing a jacket darker than the pants. I can think of far more uses for mid-gray and light gray trousers.

This is not to say there is no room for charcoal trousers, only that charcoal should probably be a low priority, purchased after developing a well rounded rotation of trousers.

I own 7 pairs of gray trousers, and the darkest is still lighter than charcoal:

View attachment 881005
(incidentally, SM shirt)

Very useful info, thank you. Your post addresses a Q I had when reading the helpful article above about the limits of charcoal--which is, aren't the same limits applicable to Navy?

I've been a suits at work guy, 5 days out of 5, my entire career. I'm the last in my office finally making the switch to so-called "business casual." (which, as an aside, seems to have no clear meaning and results in some pretty awful stuff being worn to the office). I still need a suit at least a couple days / week, but I don't need as many as I once had. So as my suits reach retirement age, I'm replacing them with trousers and SCs, which I had pretty much ignored heretofore. All a long way of saying thanks for the help and suggestions.

As for navy trousers, they are ubiquitous in the office. I thought for sure I needed at least one pair. hmmm

 

[James1051]

If I were starting a trouser rotation from scratch buying only from SM, this would be my first ten, in purchase order and with an emphasis on color. If you generally like the way I dress, this might be useful (if we have different sensibilities, it might be less useful).

Spoiler

View attachment 881016 View attachment 881017 View attachment 881020 View attachment 881021 View attachment 881024 View attachment 881025
View attachment 881028 View attachment 881026 View attachment 881027 View attachment 881029

Great suggestions. I can ID the first 4 (lt grey, mid grey, lt brown VBC, another light or mid brown Moon). The next 3 I can't ID by photo. What are they? And then the last 3, dark brown Moon, ??? and finally a mid brown moleskin. What is that second to last pair? thanks again

 

[James1051]

Replace number 3 with the lovat moleskin which pairs well with fall jackets. Very light grey flannels aren't that versatile either. Hard to wear them in the fall/winter season.

White linen, beige or dove grey linen should be somewhere there if Spier carried either.

I got those lovat moleskins a few weeks ago. Look and fit great!

 

[marker2037]

Great suggestions. I can ID the first 4 (lt grey, mid grey, lt brown VBC, another light or mid brown Moon). The next 3 I can't ID by photo. What are they? And then the last 3, dark brown Moon, ??? and finally a mid brown moleskin. What is that second to last pair? thanks again

Second to last pair is the copper linen/silk.

 

[Spex]

Very light grey flannels aren't that versatile either. Hard to wear them in the fall/winter season.

This might be a matter of preference. I have a pair of light grey herringbone wool trousers (they basically look like flannel) and I love them. I think this might be one of those things I like because I don't see a lot of guys wearing them.

Spoiler

 

[Claghorn]

Replace number 3 with the lovat moleskin which pairs well with fall jackets. Very light grey flannels aren't that versatile either. Hard to wear them in the fall/winter season.

White linen, beige or dove grey linen should be somewhere there if Spier carried either.

Agreed about light gray flannel; I was mostly thinking about colors.

If we werevtalking about fabrics and seasonality, that would be a much tougher list to put together. Light gray linen would definitely be on there though

 

[shabbytraddy]

Pulled the trigger on a couple cardigans (ridiculous bundle deal), camel moleskin trousers and the grey POW peak lapel suit. Slightly psyched.

Per trousers discussion, that was part of my consideration for the POW suit: won't wear peak lapels too often, but being able to split the trousers balances the equation a bit.

@spiermackay good luck with the shipping insanity

 

[kulata]

This might be a matter of preference. I have a pair of light grey herringbone wool trousers (they basically look like flannel) and I love them. I think this might be one of those things I like because I don't see a lot of guys wearing them.

Spoiler

These aren't bad but they are not as faint a grey color as the one listed #3. Not a fan of the first fit and the rest will all be much improved with regular mid-grey flannels.

 

[kulata]

Agreed about light gray flannel; I was mostly thinking about colors.

If we werevtalking about fabrics and seasonality, that would be a much tougher list to put together. Light gray linen would definitely be on there though

For choice of colors, you are on the money. Assuming it was a linen-cotton blend summer fall pants.

As a flannel, though, I'll find it hard to use. For fall and winter fits, I normally gravitate to darker earthy colors. So I'll always skip on pairing #3 with any jacket.

 

[68Bullitt]

After much back and forth, I decided to purchase the Moon Gun Check (Burzan's last photo w/ the moleskin was the tipping point) and snagged the last 44L. If the fit is right, then I'll be doing a special MTM project